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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1985 ramcharger and my fuel gauge dosent work, i have tried disconnecting the wires from the sending unit, i think my gauge in the dash is bad, does anyone know the color of the wires in the dash so i can check for resistance at the gauge?
 

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DRLEGION said:
I HAVE A 1985 RAMCHARGER AND I CANT GET MY FUEL GAUGE TO WORK, BEFORE I TEAR MY GAUGE CLUSTER OUT I WOULD LIKE TO BE ABLE TO TEST FOR RESISTANCE AT THE CLUSTER. DOES ANYBODY KNOW WHICH WIRES FEED THE GAUGE? I HAVE DONE ALL THE TEST IN HAYNES MANUAL, STILL NO ANSWER.
Crawl under and disconnect the wire from the Sending Unit on the Gas Tank, have someone watch the gauge while you probe the connector on the wire with a Test Light. If the Fuel Gauge moves, your problem is in the Sending Unit (either a bad float or a bad sender)
 

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DRLEGION said:
F THAT!!!! I CAME TO PARTY
Typing in all capital letters is the internet equivalent of yelling at someone. If you want help with an issue here, or just BS on the open board for that matter, then turn off the Caps lock. If you insist on using it, you won't get much help. If any at all.

Chris
 

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DRLEGION said:
F THAT!!!! I CAME TO PARTY
This was not necessary.

If you want help, be humble and you'll get it. If you just want to party, go elsewhere.
 

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Heinrich_Ram said:
WHY IS EVERYONE YELLING?!?!
Mind your own business.

Don't even bother replying cause your hole will just get deeper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My bad, didnt mean to offend, do have the gauge issue, would appreciate the help. thanx
 

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Chances are your sending unit is bad. They wear out. No point in trying a new one as they are expensive and terribly inaccurate.
Follow what Chris mentioned earlier about testing the gauge. You should have a cluster of 6-8 (don't recall which off the top of my head) wires that have a connector just below your brake booster. You'll notice the bundle go under the vehicle. In that bundle should be wires that come out for your back-up light and neutral safety switch. These should exit the bundle next to your trans with the remaining couple of wires going on towards the rear of the vehicle. If you have access to a wiring diagram (a factory service manual or FSM comes in real handy here), you can figure out which 2 wires from the connector you need to jumper to test the gauge. Although every fuel gauge I've had quit on me in one of my 80's rigs (4) was because the sender went out. Last one cost me around $75 plus shipping to send it out to have it repaired. Although it's been a few years, so prices may have gone up. Still a few places around that do that sort of thing.

http://www.gaugeguys.com/
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanx for that, i'll try it this afternoon. is there an aftermarket solution to the faulty sending unit?, or is it better to just rebuild
 

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what does your gauge do?  does it peg out all the way full? does it just remain at E?

the wire you're looking for to test the sending unit resistance at the instrument panel is blue with a yellow tracer on the round connector.  I'd take a good look at wiring/grounds and make sure there is a solid,common ground between the fuel guage sender/instrument panel.
 

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Remove the wire at the sending unit. Ground the wide to a good ground. Turn key to run, watch guage. If it moves you have a bad sending unit or a bad ground wire to the sending unit. Good luck.
 

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my fuel guage dont work either. when the key is off the needle sits right under the E when i turn the key on it moves to a hair above the E its self and it stops there. and when i shut the key off it drops back under the E.?? wtf is goin on??
 

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Mopar1984 said:
my fuel guage dont work either. when the key is off the needle sits right under the E when i turn the key on it moves to a hair above the E its self and it stops there. and when i shut the key off it drops back under the E.?? wtf is goin on??
Bad float. Bad ground. Empty gas tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
mine dosent move, its always under the "E"
 

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4x4 440 said:
Bad float. Bad ground. Empty gas tank.
lmao the gas tank aint empty. so its the float or a ground? hmm thanks for the advice im gonna look into it
 

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Mopar1984 said:
lmao the gas tank aint empty. so its the float or a ground? hmm thanks for the advice im gonna look into it
It can be no power in the circuit also. 0 volts = empty. full ground = reads full. the resistor attached to the float grades the in-between reading.

Pull the two wire plugs at the sender unit. One should have 12 volts with the key on. the other is the ground side to the sender.
 

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im thinkin it might be a wireing issue cuz the guage went out after i hit a big bump about 2 months ago. about 3-4 weeks ago my girlfriend was following me and she told me my brake lights were flickering and cutting out. and last week my dad was following me and told me the same thing so maybe it could be that lil harness that runs to the back?
 

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Mopar1984 said:
maybe it could be that lil harness that runs to the back?
test the wire for voltage and find out.
 
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