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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok. Wife called last night, said lights were a flickerin, radio was a trippin. A "friend(of hers)", checked the fuses and replaced one (yea, right). Anyway, she made it the hour ride home. This a.m. she went to fire it up to go to work and she didn't get squat. A little smoke haze in the cab when I went to check. Gave her a ride to work and started checking shit out. Finally, inside the hood, by the ballast resistor is a 'connection'. It looks like a "y" type rubber fitting. On one end is a single wire, black in nature that goes off into the electrical sleeve. The other side has 3 wires coming out on one side and 1 wire coming out on the other side of this end. All 4 of those go back into the sleeve. The one by itself looks like it comes out and grounds on the radiator. Well, about 4 inches of wire flat ass melted. This would be the one by itself opposite of the 3 wires on the same end. Cut out what I could and replaced it with tracer wire and crimped a connector on both ends. Truck runs and went down the road. Had everything, radio and stuff. After awhile, 15 miles or so, city driving, I lost my signals and the battery charge indicator is reading slightly above even charge. I don't have anyway to check the amount of charge. I've checked grounds and can't find any other problems. Anybody got an idea? Also, are the little rubber 'boots' just connectors or are they somehow part of the fusible link?

ooops. Almost forgot, for those that don't know it's an 85 R/C, 360, 2wd.








EZ
 

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That 4 inches of wire that melted is a fusible link. You need to replace it with a fusible link, NOT WIRE!!! That fuse link blew because there is a short somewhere in the ignition wiring, replacing it with just a piece of wire removes the "fuse" from this system, and is a receipe for FIRE. (this is why your turn signals stopped working and your reading a slightly higher charge...the system has a short circuit) You need to find and repair the short, and replace the fusible link. A good place to check for a short is the bulkhead connector...clean it out and check the wiring for deterioration.

-SM
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok. According to the HRManual, it says to cut out the connector and replace the wire from before the connector to after the harness and splice the wire back in. Is it possible that if I did this, maybe the short is in the connector? The wire that I put in has already fried, but I didn't remove the connector as the good book says to.





EZ
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
OK. I cut out the connector, bypassed the harness. It idled in park with no problems. I put it into reverse and checked with a 12 volt tester light and never had a problem. Did this for about 30 minutes. Wire never even got hot. Got out on the road and went about 5 houses down, talked to a neighbor for about 20 minutes with the truck idling in park and drive, no problem. Took off and went down the street and turned the corner. Radio started cutting on-off so I headed back home. Popped the hood and the wire was warm but not real hot. Damn sun hid on me for the night.




EZ
 

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This test usually doesn't work with a test light, but if you can beg/borrow/steal a simple voltmeter (analog will work fine) disconnect the negative battery cable, and hook the tester up between the batt negative post and the negative cable. The tester should be reading zero, or next to nothing (The radio draws a small amount of voltage evn when off to store clock, audio, and station settings) If you see a draw, start pulling fuses from the fuse block one at a time until the draw dissapears, When it does, you found the circuit with the short. I would siggest starting in the radio circuit ;) There is probably a wire going to the radio that has worn through it's insulation and is intermittently coming into contact with ground (shorting)

-SM
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I tried re-creating when the problem does its thing. I jacked up the rear and put it up on stands. I then "drove" it at various speeds. Used the turn signals, seems like that is when the meltdown starts, flashers, brakes, all kinds of different combos. Forwards, reverse, whatever. It does not do it in the air! Maybe the load aint heavy enough, probably? At one time, the 'flasher' fuse did do some clicking, could it be in that? Tired of making new jumpers! Why would it only do it under a load? Unless the load is sitting on the short? Possible? I may go buy a cheap volt meter this weekend. Dunno. This sucks.







EZ
 
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Very well could come from driving and "bumps"Slanted_minds test would be the way to attack this I think ;D

EZRider said:
I tried re-creating when the problem does its thing. I jacked up the rear and put it up on stands. I then "drove" it at various speeds. Used the turn signals, seems like that is when the meltdown starts, flashers, brakes, all kinds of different combos. Forwards, reverse, whatever. It does not do it in the air! Maybe the load aint heavy enough, probably? At one time, the 'flasher' fuse did do some clicking, could it be in that? Tired of making new jumpers! Why would it only do it under a load? Unless the load is sitting on the short? Possible? I may go buy a cheap volt meter this weekend. Dunno. This sucks.

EZ
 

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Have you pulled the bulkhead connector off and checked it yet? Corrosion can be a problem there, and is something that can be checked w/o a voltmeter (The analog VM's are in the $5-$10 range) Then I would start tracing wires back from the ignition switch and the radio. The radio wires have quite a few "sharp" metal edges they can rub against, which is why I would start there. The ignition wires can also rub through and rub on the steering column, so that is where I would look next.

Can you tell I have had this problem before? I have had ignition wiring rub through and ground out to my valve cover (intermittently of course) and had my radio power wire short out in the connector....that one took me days to find. Believe me, I feel your pain. Good luck!

-SM
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I replaced the radio a year or so ago. I have checked all the wires I can around the radio and down the column and thru the firewall. I have dropped the fuse box down and searched it as best I can. Like I said, the hazard fuse "clicks" sometimes and that is about all I can find so far. I've tried checking all the clusters on the firewall, engine side, that I can.I'm gonna try to drive it around with the fuse box down and see if that doesn't help narrow it down some. At the radio, I have a blue wire hanging down that is not connected. I have 2 ends with tape on them like it was supposed to be not connected. One side has power, the other, of course, does not. Not sure if I should tie 'em together. The ends don't touch anything.







EZ
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok. I found the problem, now I need the solution, or at least the part! Seems I have a bare wire (or three) that are going to the transmission down by the pan. There are several places that are bubbled or bare up from the fusible link. I'm sure some are my fault, but oh hell. Anyhow, where can I find the wire with connector(s) from the pan all the way up to the fusible link besides a junkyard? Would rather have it new if affordable. The actual problem started at the clamp that holds it to the fender under the truck. It wore thru ALL three wires! :eek:



EZ
 

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EZRider said:
Ok. I found the problem, now I need the solution, or at least the part! Seems I have a bare wire (or three) that are going to the transmission down by the pan. There are several places that are bubbled or bare up from the fusible link. I'm sure some are my fault, but oh hell. Anyhow, where can I find the wire with connector(s) from the pan all the way up to the fusible link besides a junkyard? Would rather have it new if affordable. The actual problem started at the clamp that holds it to the fender under the truck. It wore thru ALL three wires! :eek:

EZ
EZ...anyone that works with pipes all day should not Frick with wires! ;D ;D ;D
I'll see what i can come up with for a part number.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Chump said:
EZRider said:
Ok. I found the problem, now I need the solution, or at least the part! Seems I have a bare wire (or three) that are going to the transmission down by the pan. There are several places that are bubbled or bare up from the fusible link. I'm sure some are my fault, but oh hell. Anyhow, where can I find the wire with connector(s) from the pan all the way up to the fusible link besides a junkyard? Would rather have it new if affordable. The actual problem started at the clamp that holds it to the fender under the truck. It wore thru ALL three wires! :eek:

EZ
EZ...anyone that works with pipes all day should not Frick with wires! ;D ;D ;D
I'll see what i can come up with for a part number.
LMFAO!! ;D You ainta lying! Electrical just aint my cup-a-tea! It was a pain to find, but I finally did! I appreciate it Chump!! Like I said, it kinda bubble a few places on up the strand thats taped together. I don't think it melted any of the other wires tho. if I could get the three from the pan to the fusible link up by the ballast, that should do it. Thanks again Chump!

EZ
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok. I've got it temporarily fixed. I had to replace some wiring from the trans to a connector under the truck, Then from the connector to another on the top side of the truck. Then from there to the wire harness up by the ballast resistor. Is there anything wrong by using solid wire instead of strands? Seems to be running ok, for now. Need to find the whole set-up soon tho. But where do you stop? It pretty much can be all the way to the back of the truck. The wires are to the backup lights and neutral switch........


EZ
 

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EZ, It looks like that part of the harness is "Not Serviced" by Dodge. A small part of it that has the 3 pin connector that goes to the switch on the tranny is available. Your choices are salvage yard or pull the harness and send it to me for repair if you still have all the old pieces that you cut out? Solid wire will work but it will break from stress. Gotta use stranded wire on vehicles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Chump said:
EZ, It looks like that part of the harness is "Not Serviced" by Dodge. A small part of it that has the 3 pin connector that goes to the switch on the tranny is available. Your choices are salvage yard or pull the harness and send it to me for repair if you still have all the old pieces that you cut out? Solid wire will work but it will break from stress. Gotta use stranded wire on vehicles.
That's my luck in full force! I guess I'd haveta get that piece from the dealer? I'll just have to splice and rebuild the rest. How would I go about redoing the fusible link? It'd be a bit hard to send it to ya tho. That'll make it kinda hard to drive then!! ;D

EZ
 

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4085383
Connector/Harness Neutral Safety Switch Automatic Trans Mopar($15?)
Short wiring harness(14") that includes the 3 pin connector for the neutral safety switch and 3 wires/connectors on the other end

This is the connector that mounts to the switch on the tranny. It comes with a short harness and a couple of connectors attached. should come with the parts highlighted in yellow.

 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thats the culprit! Thanks Chump! I'll just have to do what I gotta do on the rest of it!








EZ
 
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