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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I pulled the wheel and dust cap off. Inside there is a snap ring on the inner spline holding a flange that’s splined to the inner and outer sides. The flange had room to move inboard and outboard some. Behind that is a washer/nut that is keyed for a spanner which I could loosen and tighten with a screwdriver blade in the notch.

I assume this is the adjustment to set bearing clearance? Tighten up snug then 1/4 turn out and lock it is what I’d do if it was a castle nut but I am wondering if I’m missing a locking plate/washer for it or something? There was nothing there behind the splined flange that slided out after the snapring is removed.

What’s the proper procedure?

Thanks!

Radar
 

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you should have something that looks like this , tho there have been a few different styles , some older ones with  double hex nuts and a tin washer .  PAY close attention to the locating TIT on the inner nut , it must insert into a HOLE in the washer between the 2 "nuts" ....  on a P/C clicking on photo should enlarge it , or however else its done IDK
 

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no problem  ;D
 

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Set the endplay a hair loose, when the outer nut is torqued it will push the inner nut towards the opposite side of the threads and tighten up the bearing. The shop manual mentions tightening the inner nut to 50 foot pounds,then backing it off 135° before installing the outer nut. They say .001" end float is what you want to end up with. I haven't had much  luck luck with the 135° thing(too much end float), I usually go with backing of 1/4 turn then adjusting it until there is zero end float movement with the outer nut torqued down.
 
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