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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Short story, Not My Truck.  But might as well be.  Truck is automatic, has what I call a spring over lift.  Son bought it with front driveshaft out "due to lift".   

Maybe so.  But while under with the drive shaft, thinking about interference, etc.  notice the front yoke did not have holes for bolts.  Well, not any more as close look shows the bolts appear to be broken off.  Funny how that goes.

Anyway, does it make any sense to try to salvage that yoke or just toss it and find a replacement?  If replacement, what type?

 

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Those yokes usually have full thickness bolt holes which means the bolts did not bottom out in the holes.  Thats good because then I would try to find a new yoke. 
In your case, weld a washer to each broken bolt and then weld a nut to each washer.  They should turn right out.  Mig works for me
 

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A "spring over" lift is when you take a vehicle that has the springs mounted under the axle and move them on top of the axle like a lot of the old Jeeps were originally built as a spring under but a popular modification was to go "spring over" and gain the diameter of the axle tube and perch height in lift.

As for the yoke, the bolts are usually hardened and can easily snap off.  Because the are hardened, they can also be a pain to drill out if the above suggestion does not work for you.  If you don't want to try and replace the yoke with either a junkyard yoke or a new one with a different type U-joint, then I would pull the yoke and take it to a machine shop or someone with a good drill press to try and drill out the broken bolts.  Yokes can be expensive so it depends on the labor rate as to which is a better deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Not much of the bolt are visible, pretty much flush with surface. 

Got a Miller multi process welder that may allow me to "stitch" enough of a "peak" on them so I can go from there.  Maybe just that heat will offer them an excuse to come out. 

Failing that, I have a floor drill press I might be able to drill with.  If the are hardened, my experience has been the drill wants to wander.  "Semi-skilled" come into play here I guess.

Thanks for the tips.
 

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To be clearer, the bolts only have a hardening treatment, so it won't be as bad as drilling out stainless.  The core is probably still soft, but if you do the welding trick, it may take the temper out of them anyway.
 

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according to the parts book there are two different yokes [ depending on gear ratio and u-joint size ]
3:07 - 3:54 # 4116-781 - 7260 series
4:10 - 4:56 # 4164-120 - 7290 series 29 spline

Note / l,m only guessing on the gear ratio thing but it does make sense that the dana 61 has the higher gears and smaller u-joints
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'll have to determine which diff it has, I guess, regardless of the bolt extraction, as I will at least need bolts and most likely ujoints. 
 

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joea said:
I'll have to determine which diff it has, I guess, regardless of the bolt extraction, as I will at least need bolts and most likely ujoints.
open engine hood and LOOK up at the under hood vehicle options sticker = if its there it,ll tell you everything
 

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93 is a oddball year for the Cummins.  Should have a 7290.Prior years were 7260.  See quad4x4 website
 

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The 7290 yoke for a D60 appears on all the 2ndgens. Easy to find a spare.

If you want to do one better, find an older u-bolt style yoke from a D60/70 in a Ford or GM. (Spicer 1330 or 1350) Then run a conversion ujoint... or upgrade the shaft yoke at the same time.
 
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