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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have the 4 inch rouck country suspension on my truck with the 2.5 degree shims on the front axle and was wondering these could be causing my truck to wonder back and fourth when driving??? also will hurt if i just remove these and not put any back on with the lift???

thanks for any help
 

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Actually it may not be lift kit casuing hte problem . Probably the worn out rag jpoint in the steering shaft is the cause of the wander . you can get a kit form the dealer ship for 10 bucks or spend the 220 fora nice Borgeson piece which will last forever .
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
sorry, i forgot to say that i have a borgeson steering shat on my truck. and it mainly does it when you get going above 50.
 
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how long has the lift been? Did the wandering start with the lift or after it was installed? Mine starts wandering when the wheel bearings need repacked
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
the lift has been on since around july, and it started doing this after it was installed.
 

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I have the same problem with my lift. The degree shims alter the caster on the front tires and will cause a little bit of a wonder.
 

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I have the same problem with my lift. The degree shims alter the caster on the front tires and will cause a little bit of a wonder. The shims are on their the help line up the driveshaft, I would'nt remove them because it'll create too much of an angle on the front driveshaft.
 
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I would pull the shims and see what happens. IIRC the shims are put in the kit to make the driveline angle better.
FWIW Larger tires will magnify any weak parts on the rest of your suspension. Tre's ball joints etc.
 

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You can pull the shims if your front driveshaft has enouhg room at the ujoiunts. You may be able to clearance them for more room (grind some metal off). I lowered my tcase and was able to remove the shims. it does affect steering, as the tire will no longer livot on the dead bottom of the tire, but at a point somewhere up the backside.

On mine, the effect of these shims got bad enough over 10 yrs that you could actually rock the sateering and watch the drivers side spring move 3 x as much as the pass side from the leverage. My truck no sits low on the drivers side as a result.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ok so now my final question. if i remove the front shims and dont use any, will my front drivelines be okay???

thanks again for all the help
 

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It should do away with the wandering but it will be really hard on your u-joints and might give you major problems with 4x4, UNLESS you drop the x-fer case. That is real easy to do about 1 hour labor and a cheap kit through macspring.com tuff country transfer case drop kit get the sleve kit it will do wonders my .02
ken
 

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Well, I dropped my tcase using a bunch of washers to begin with. I wanted to drop it to see if it helped. I just stacked about 1" of washers on each bolt, and got some new longer grade 8 bolts and nuts. I bolted it together to see if it helped, or if I needed more drop.

That was 8 yrs ago...still have the washers in there...with no problems. I did use all 4 braces tho. Some have removed the top brace that goes to the top of the frame. I may in the future, but for now, they are all 4 still there.
 

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You should be fine. With part time 4x4 you will only have the front engauged off road or when you are going slow. We don't have any shims on the front axle on my GF's 90 RC and we don't have any problems
 

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Ok now not to sound like a know it all or anything but for the love of god when will people realize that shims are bad. Dont know if any of you saw my post about the safety issues involving skyjackers lifts and their shims. The only purpose of shims is money. Yeah money. The lift companys put shims on their lift springs so that they can claim the lift can be installed without needing new drive shafts. I hate to break it to ya but in order to lift a rc 4 or 6 inches and not distroy your steering angle your probably gunna need a new front drive shaft because the stock one is only good to 15 degrees. You might get away w/ it with a 4 inch lift if you put in some limiting straps so that it wont snap off when your suspension droops.

The easy way to check all this
disconnect your drive shaft from the pumpkin
jack the front up
let it down w/ stands under the frame so that the front axel is left hanging
now put it in neutral so you can turn that shaft ( be sure that the wheels are chocked !!!)
youll see real quick just how much of an angle you can get away w/ ne guessing

If you do end up needing a new drive shaft to get rid of the shims or just to handle the lift period i highly recommend you give high angle drive line a call
They make a 1350 cv drive shaft that is good to 32 degrees of angle and the huge plus is that its all 1 ton rated :)

here are some links that might be helpful to better understand steering effects and links of manufactures that sell the stuff needed to do the whole job.

excellent article on steering theory http://www.off-roadweb.com/tech/0212or_steering/

manufacturer of high angle drive shafts www.highangledriveline.com

manufacturer of cross over steering components and heavy duty tie rod components
http://www.avalancheengineering.com/parts1.htm
 

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Well, I got away with it for 13 yrs, and if I hadn't gone to a 205 tcase, which is shorter and requires a longer d/s, I'd still be running them. I never had any problems with the driveshfts related to the 6" skyjacker lift I had on it. I did have some problems with the rear driveshaft and too much torque...ie throwing it out the back of the truck AND cracking both axle tubes so the pinion was pointing straight up.
 

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I would drop the shims ive run the 4" in mine for three years no probs with front driveshaft u joints yet.But the other guys make some good points to caster is changed also and the bigger tires wear front end components faster the only time i had problems like you was when i changed outer tie rod ends and bumbled the toe in.I actually toed out about 1/4" and didnt notice around town but got on the highway and was pretty much ditch to ditch constantly overcorrecting myself.Good luck.
 

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The best way to lift the front is to drop the spring mounting points, no need for shims, the ride isn't changed and the wheel travel is better, why none of rhe aftermarket lift companies do it this way is beyond me, it would also be alot cheaper to do it that way, just gotta kinda box the frame where the rear shackle is and weld a mount to the bottom side of the rail and then make a extended spring mount up front, simple, cheap, and better.
I gotta learn to keep my mouth zipped
 
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