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Looking at the FSM for replacing a leaking front seal. It references all the officiaal Mopar tools needed to remove and re-install it, but don't have those. What actual tools in the tool box should I plan on using for revoing the harmonic balancer and pulleys, and any suggestions for what to use to evenly push the new seal in place?
 

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I usually just gently tap them in with a hammer.  As long as it starts straight, it's not hard to get one seated without bending it all up.
 

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The pulley unbolts from the balancer and you use a harmonic balancer puller to take it off.  If you don't have one, you can sometimes rent them from a auto parts store.  An impact is the best way to get the crank bolt off.
 

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'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
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Yes, you need a harmonic balancer puller to get the balancer off. The seal is located in the timing cover which you will also have to pull off.
 

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As DODGEBOYS said, I would do a timing set at the same time. Yes, a steering wheel puller will work. Just make sure the puller doesn't damage the threads on the crank snout or you will never be able to get the crank pulley bolt back in. To get the seal out, just flip over the timing cover and gently tap out the seal from the backside with a flathead. You might need a shim kit but I would Mic it out to know for sure. Usually you can tell if you need a shim if you see obvious wear.
 

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The bolt that holds the damper to the crank is often torqued down pretty tight so ya mostly end up spinning the engine when trying to loosen it. One option is jam a socket extension against the flex plate but that can be kinda awkward. I usually use one of the power steering pump brackets to lock the damper in place. Use one of the crank pulley bolts / holes on one end and one of the water pump bolt holes on the other end. When putting the big damper bolt back in, just crank on the ratchet until the motor spins around once - rotational torque will keep it tight.

The center bolt on the puller has a button foot that should be larger than the damper bolt and prevent you from fouling up the threads. If in doubt put a stray socket between the foot and the crank. I'll generally put a little grease on the inside of the damper for reinstall. A large socket or small exhaust pipe can work for a seal driver.

When replacing the timing cover, you'll also replace the rubber seal on the front of the pan. Most instructions will say put it in dry but I always run a bead of silicone on both sides. The locating nipples that stick through the lip of the pan completely get in the way when putting the front pan bolts back in. Tighten down the rest of the cover bolts first then just trim them back with a razor.

Absolutely do the timing chain while you're at it. Wouldn't hurt swapping the water pump while your at it.
 

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take the BIG washer off the crank bolt , re install the bolt , let puller push on bolt head , it is smaller than the ID of the hole ... check it .
 

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dodge82273 said:
take the BIG washer off the crank bolt , re install the bolt , let puller push on bolt head , it is smaller than the ID of the hole ... check it .
This is how I normally do it. Just make sure the bolt is screwed in far enough so that you can get the puller's shaft threaded in through the plate or you can strip it out. If one side of the puller has a bit of a dome in the center, you may want to point it outwards if possible. It all depends on the design of the puller and how long the bolts are that are supplied with it.
 

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My puller has a flat cup style end that swivels and sits nicely inside the crank snout where the shoulder of the bolt sits but ive seen ones that have a ball end or a small end or a broken end that would easily damage bare threads. Its a common rookie mistake that can make life a little difficult for sure
 
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