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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok so i put the motor back toghter on the tona and start her up


noise still there and low/no pressure at idle once warm


so ok im like maybe a bad oil pump so i swap it same thing

while under there i check the rods 1 2 and 3 are nice tight #4 has a good amount of side to side play at least a house key thickness on each side of the rod EASY


had to put in straight 70 oil in to have 12 psi of pressure in it hot

would to much clearance between the rod and crank cause this????????????

i will give more info as you ask for it




I beg you help 3 time motor was DONE
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
no leaks

yes i am getting oil pressure at the top

 

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what weight oil did you put in originally? what sort of temperatures is the engine running? why is there so much side/side play in the big end of the four rod? if it is worn that bad, you'd have to check the crank further.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
10w30 190deg
I dont know why it has that much I thnk the machine shop "cut" to much while cuttint the crank 10 under he might have took a little 2 much off the side

 

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i just mic'd a house key and came up with near an 1/8th of an inch. thats a full quarter full. even if thats not the result of your troubles, it will be eventually.

what noise are you describing. if its a low rumbling knock that increases as rpms climb that sounds like its coming from the middle/bottom of the engine, thats that rod sliding around. what readings are you getting at a cold start? warm idle? reving?
 

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Don't worry about the side to side clearance all that will do is add more oil to the cylinder walls if you have good oil rings nothing to worry about, if you don't have good oil rings you will burn some oil, your problem is inside somewhere either a bad rod or main, if you have noise and haven't already taken the motor apart to see why well wth are you waiting for, or you can keep running it and let it show you the problem itself, oh and it will eventually
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
THE motor IS FREsh FOR THIS REASON the noise all that was found was one slightly loose piston pin bushing EVERything in the motor was perfect


now i didnt see this untill yesterday the loose side to side clearance now WILl this cause an oil pressure problem. ...... the noise is a rumble under acc/ not a bearing noise


NOw all the bearings are new and tight new oil pump and all

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
all the rods Felt tight dont feel like they have play


 

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Is the turbo new? If your turbo bearing clearence is toast it will drop your pressure. It sounds like your oil bypass is stuck open or missing all together. not sure of the arragement on your motor though
 

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Here's another thought: if the gauge is electric (assumeing) I could be the sending unit ( duh, I had this proplem before ). check the gauge and grownd circuit as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
tried 3 diff gauges




and i blocked off the turbo feed line for a moment to see if it would change the pressure



it would seem the machine shop screwed up my forged crank Fucker
 

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If your side play on your rod is that excessive I would question the rest of the crank. Take a pry bar and pry the crank front to back to see how much thrust play you have. Specs are like .003-.010". Excessive thrust can cause the sides on the rods to wear faster too.
 

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did you plastigauge the rod and main bearings upon assembly to make sure that the tolerences are within specs. Possibly got one spot badly machined and the fit is to loose.
Like Trailduster_Rulz says.
Oil pressure is depending on two things: oil pump pressure and clearance at rod and main bearings.
If one of two is out of spec (too much clearance or insufficient pump), pressure will be (too) low.
As you mentioned that sideplay is also too much, I'd suspect the work done (or not done) by the machine shop.
If clearance is too big, no pump will get the pressure high enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
the rod and main clearane is tight i know that and what i mean by side to side clearance is that it is only on one rod #4 tried a new pump thinking it might be a bad pump. so if there is clearance between the rod and the crank throws it would let the Pressure "bleed" out faster right?
 

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How many times you need to hear that rod side clearance does not affect oil pressure. Yank the pan and plastigage all the rods and mains, on a front driver this is no big deal exept for the rear main. It is very easy for people to get bearings measured in sillymeters confused. Don't buy mm plastigage, get it marked in thousanths. I'm not that familiar with the 2.2- 2.5 but make sure there are no missing welsh or pipe plugs in the oil galleries. Don't know if it applies to you but it is common to shitcan the balance shaft assembly on 2.5s, I have done this myself, this leaves an oil pressure hole that needs plugged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
OK SO THE OIL PRESSURE IS NOT AFFECTED BY THE Clearance of the rod side clearance

as soon as i have the garage cleaned out with cust cars i will pull the pan once again and check.

the Balance shafts were removed and the oil feed was taped and 2 plugs were put in followed by a layer of exopy

other than the crank i dont see where the oil pressure is going

I will keep everyone informed
 

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If you have .025 mm under bearings on a .25 mm under crank it would let to much pressure escape. If you have an 1/8th of an inch side clearance it will probably let the rod move around too much, did they work on the rods? I know guys that have run as much as .060" side clearance.
 

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FORGET THE SIDE CLEARANCE ON THE RODS

What does the big end of the rod measure with the bearing and what does the crank rod journal measure and then what does the main journal measure with the bearing and what does the cranks main journal measure.
 
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