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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay I'll start from how I noticed this issue today. Which all was working just fine all week and some. Except for the radio screen. it like to go in and out some times. just flick it and it comes back for a few min.

I started today by doing normal maintenance oil change, addressing this leaky trans oil cooler line (Reroute, hose clams, & tire down will bailing wire), a few loose exhaust nuts & ETC. Then as I am pulling in for lunch 15 min down the road. I kick on my right blinker (A little bit slow flashing), what the hell is the clock on the radio flashing in sync with the blinker (which the radio screen decided to come back on)? Odd as hell right? gets better. So I proceed to eat my lunch, think about what's going on, hit the car wash and stuff. I get back home, time to light check everything. Everything is fine except for the rear passenger blinker. Light is completely off no break light or blinker. put it in reverse to get the back up light & kick the tail lights on. WTF! why is the reverse & back up light blinking? the Blub is brand new (Installed less than 1 week ago and with dielectric grease) and the the filament is still good. oh and yes the clock is still synced up with it.

NOTE: I did have a temporary issue before the carwash where if I was using my left blinker and hit the breaks. The Blinker would stop working. but decide to fix its self one I got done are the car wash.

Things I have check and are good:
  • Check the blinker fuse (Looks Great, and is working normally. Installed last year)
  • Unplugged the radio (Did not help)
  • Checked Linkable fuses (Found nothing, all good)
  • Checked ground by radiator & one right on the engine where the smog pump is. (All good and not loose)
My Current theory is a ground I am missing to check or a break in a wire / loose connection some where maybe? Still I have no Idea where to start to look for this issue. Any Ideas where to start? Truck runs / drive smooths and everything, especially after that oil change lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update:

It decided to fix its self and break again. And my right blinker on the column stopped engaging. so gonna order a new blinker switch and make sure that it.
 

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it's NOT the blinker switch but a GROUND
 

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besides you don't replace parts till proven defective , so test test test

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
The part is definitely defective because I can not physically engage a right hand turn or even use the hazzard do to a physical malfunction. Sorry, I should have been more clear in my update. I was really tired since I had an ultra long day yesterday.

You are still probably right on the grounding issue. But hard to tell when I can physically not use the turn signal switch. The new one will be here Tuesday. Once in stalled. I check back in with an update.
 

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which style column do you have
old style "saginaw"
new style "chrysler"
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I am not sure which style in regards to Saginaw Vs. Chrysler. From what I know it as 1989 D100 Tilt Steering Wheel Column. I had to replace the turn signal switch when I bought the truck. Since the original was worn out.
 

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l remember that , so its bad again
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thats the current thought. Still might have a ground issue. But will only tell on Tuesday when the part comes in.
 

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dont bother changing it at first , just plug it in and see what happens
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Good call save me pulling the whole damn thing apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Tuesday 09/15/2021 I test the new part by plugged it in. It worked and fixed everything.

Today Installed the new part and found this! The part decided to fuck its self hard. The plastic got hot and all melty and the metal plate sunk into the plastic frame 1/8" to 1/4"! I have no Idea what the hell happened but damn does it explain a lot.

Issue solved - Fixed! - "Currently"
 

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before you say ALL fixed , which wires hook to that to see where they go , you could still have a problem , l,d trace it out to be sure
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Good point! I'll have to double check it this weekend when I got the time. so far I did not seen anything under the dash that stood out of place. the block on the front side where the connectors (Next to the Break peddle) go all into looked good. only way to really chase the wires is to pull the dash apart. Which I am not gonna lie, I dont like to do. but hey better be safe than sorry and build my skills up.
 

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Hot is arcing or high resistance in the circuit (or both). I'd check the grounds and any wire terminal connections in that circuit.
 

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Arcing would take high current, which will generally blow the fuse. High resistance, can occur at low currents, And can easily cause enough heat to melt the plastic housing. My bet is the switch got old, and did not have good contact between the two contacts. The poor connection caused things to heat up, making the connection worse, and things melted further.

90% chance the issue is solved with the new switch. I would double check to make sure you have the right fuse, and that all the bulbs work, and have close to the right brightness ( dim bulbs could indicate a partial short).

A good way to test current, is one of these testers that plug in place of the fuse. Then you can compare the current draw for one side to the other.
Automotive tire Sleeve Motor vehicle Gesture Finger

 

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George the switch is NEW , it's the first thing l helped him with way back when he joined

what l mean by trace it out is GO to where the wires END [ tail light socket ] and especially any trailer plugs and work your way back to the fender well connector below the brake booster

90% of blinker wiring problems happen "outside" the Cab [ not much go's wrong under the dash unless it;s cut and chopped ]
 

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The melted one is new?
 

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The melted one is new?
yup a little over a year ago , he joined because he needed help with the switch back then to take the column apart , and then he made a Video about it
 

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it;s a nice video too
 
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