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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys...I haven't started my RC since I picked up my new 02 on August 30. I left it parked cuz the tranny was slipping, it was hot and the driver's window motor quit working, plus my AC needed its third service of the summer. It's cooler out now so I wanted to adjust my bands and pour in some Type-F fluid to get the tranny back in order for a little while longer before I have a rebuild.

What all should I check over before starting it back up? The longest it has sat before was 4 weeks and then it just needed a jump. I did park it in Aug with hardly any gas in the tank, which I found out a couple days ago was not the best idea. I'd like to get it started up, run ~5 miles to my station of choice and fill it up. Any suggestions on what I should do to keep it from dying?
 

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Maybe add a bottle of gas drier and a few gallons of fresh gas before you go. Even that probably doesn't matter, and otherwise, I wouldn't think there should be any problems..
 

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I wouldn't worry about anything. 2 months really isn't very long. I've let my Roadrunner sit 10-11 months before. The battery wasn't even dead or anything. It fired up and drove just like the last time.
 

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Yeah just fire her up man and drive it for awhile and see what the tranny is up too . A bad adjustment is no biggie just a pain in the butt to do is all . The reverse band is especially important to adjust as it seems to take more abuse thna the other band .

bt83rc
 

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RC88 I noticed you wer gonna use TYPE F tranny fluid ... You might want to consider mopar ATF2 or 3 .. If you dont want to use faxctory i believe you need DEXRON 1,2 or 3 ...
I'm pretty sure TYPE F is a veggie based fluid good for fords and not recommended in your mopar .... The MOPAR part # is on your dipstick
 

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ramdis said:
RC88 I noticed you wer gonna use TYPE F tranny fluid ... You might want to consider mopar ATF2 or 3 .. If you dont want to use faxctory i believe you need DEXRON 1,2 or 3 ...
I'm pretty sure TYPE F is a veggie based fluid good for fords and not recommended in your mopar .... The MOPAR part # is on your dipstick
Ramdis, type F fluid is thinner, so it will allow the shifts to happen quicker, and quicker equals less slippage and less heat, which equals longer life. There was a Tech thread a while back about if you should use Type F or not, and basicaly its up to personal preference. I know a lot of shift kit manufacturers recomend Type F, Another Fluid would be B&M's Trick shift fluid. Its similar to Type F, but it has more protection from pressure and heat and foaming. I use Type F in my tranny (727 with a trans-go shift kit) and I havent noticed any problems....
C.J.
 

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Thanks for setting me straight on that one CJ... I just noticed the slipping complaint and the Type F..... I remember Type F was used in most pre 77 Fords and has frictional properties that allow the clutches and bands to grab, and not slip as much, during shifts. I was also told Type F has different additives that lube O-rings and seals in the transmission and could cause seal problems in some applications. I guess the kit manufacturers have that under control seeing you dont have any problems ..... Like you said it's a matter of personal preference. I've been plowing and towing with 727's on dexron {ATF3) for years never had any problems maybe I'll give the Type F a shot on my next fluid change. I might like the difference.. Thanks again
 

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My 79 T/D was parked for almost ten years. Put a new battery in it and some new gas, cranked her over, and she came to life. Purred like a kitten. ;D


Ian
 
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Ramtuff said:
My 79 T/D was parked for almost ten years. Put a new battery in it and some new gas, cranked her over, and she came to life. Purred like a kitten. ;D

Ian
The 78 RC I got last January was sitting in a barn for six years. I had it running 15 minutes after we got it back to my house. ;D
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well I guess the heat here in GA wasn't too kind to my truck. Didn't take much to get it running, the tranny work went just fine, but my radiator and my battery were a good bit low on water. The battery is next to shot, it only charges enough while running to get one good start. I borrowed a charger from a neighbor and left it on for several hours, and it still bogs way down starting up (and I have a Nippondenso hi-torque starter).

It also has an exhaust leak somewhere that I don't remember hearing before. I'd go ahead and put straight duals on it but just don't have the dough to do it right now. I think I will be able to hold off on a tranny rebuild as little as I will have to drive the truck. It does need work on the driver's window. I can hear the motor running when I press the switch but nothing happens, and I can only push the window up/down with my grubby hands on the glass. Without opening the door panel I suspect the track rather than the regulator. At least now I can drive it to a body shop to get last June's damage repaired!!

Another thing I noticed when holding a high idle to charge the batt was the part of the kickdown linkage that connects to the throttle linkage had come apart. I think this happened when I had to force the kickdown bar out of my way to adjust the front band. It seems there should be some c-clip or cotter pin or retainer of some sort to keep that slotted bar from popping off the throttle linkage rod...am I right? Where could I get one?
 
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