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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
any chance there is an FAQ already in existence for one ton swaps into the ramcharger platform? trying to get all my ducks in a row before I start tearing stuff down and having a hard time piecing together exactly what is needed, so far my google-fu has failed me finding some "how ya done it" type threads. Most of the ones I've turned up have dropped off mid project.

If one doesn't exist can we start one here and I'll come back to edit it?

I'm going to be swapping out the d44/chrysler 9.25 axles I currently have. plan is to keep the leaf spring setup that is currently installed and make this setup as close to bolt in as possible. so far this is what I've got planned:

raceline beadlocks, 17"x9", 4.5" BS, 8x6.5

37" milestar patagonia MT

front axle:
- SRW dodge dana 60, 4.88 gears, detroit locker, yukon shafts/super joints, warn hubs
- jungle's frame stiffener kit (https://ramchargercentral.com/articles/?sa=view;article=176)
- ORD crossover kit (https://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/product/view/id/1400/s/crossover-steering-for-dodge-trucks-with-a-kingpin-dana-60/category/566/)
- ******* ram hydro assist (useful install here: https://ramchargercentral.com/articles/?sa=view;article=60)
- jungle's spring pad kit (https://ramchargercentral.com/jungleshddodgecomponents/dodge-dana-60-front-spring-plates/)
- driveshaft shortened, correct joint to match the d60 yoke put on (taking it to JE Reel, long time friend and <20min from house)

rear:
- sterling 10.25, 4.88 gears, detroit locker, stock drum brakes
******yes I know this is not an ideal rear. I would have rather gone with a d70 or 14 bolt, but it was offered by a friend in already built/ready to run status and the price was ridiculously right
- driveshaft shortened, correct joint to match the sterling yoke put on (again going to JE Reel)

here are the items I have questions on so any advice would be much apprecitated:
1) brakes: I'm assuming I'll need to make a change to the booster I have currently installed. I would assume any booster off a w350 would work as the drums for the sterling can't require much more fluid and I will be using the stock d60 brakes in the front.
2) rear spring perches/shock mounts: any recommendations for which vendor to go with for new ones? I liked this kit from ruffstuff but not sure it will be in stock anytime soon: https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/D70SS-35.html. Has anyone used this motobilt kit? https://motobilt.com/products/u-bolt-eliminator-kit-for-14-bolt-dana-70-sterling-10-25-5
3) I'm 99% sure the studs for the front passenger spring perch are missing from the axle (it's not in my possession yet to verify). Is there a good source for these?
4) wheel spacers: the rear axle is only ~66" WMS-WMS. The front is only ~67" WMS-WMS. I'm not planning on going to super large tires so turning shouldn't be a huge issue so I don't think they'll be required, but I certainly wouldn't complain about an extra 2ish inches of width to help keep objects away from the body. what has everyone else done?
5) ??? I feel like i'm missing a bunch of stuff but just not sure what. any help would be much appreciated.
 

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one more thing, when i did mine, since the rear axle was from a dodge, the parking brake was easy, but with the Ford axle how will you connect a parking brake? Are the cables set up similar?
You could also check out WFO concepts for the perches.
 

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12" Bendix brakes appear on Dodge thru 93 and ford thru 97. I reckon you can simply swap cables.

I measure about 65" on my dodge D70s and Ford 10.25's. The ford guys often add rear spacers to even things out as the front axle is around 69". I don't run rear spacers because of the 1-2 tons a routinely haul in the bed. For light use I don't mind. 9/16" studs gives some peace of mind.
 

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Does the sterling have a brake line splitter or a drop to each wheel?  One or two rubber rear brake hoses on a Ford I guess is the question.
 

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chuck408mpfi said:
Does the sterling have a brake line splitter or a drop to each wheel? One or two rubber rear brake hoses on a Ford I guess is the question.
Splitter like the dodge - 1 rubber line
 

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wheel spacers I do Not like , 2 inch ones I really don't like , better a different offset rim .
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
dodge82273 said:
wheel spacers I do Not like , 2 inch ones I really don't like , better a different offset rim .
I'm not a huge fan of spacers either, which is why I went with the wider back spacing from raceline instead of the more common 3.75". hoping that the 4.5" helps clear everything a little better.

while they're not ideal I have experience doing hard core off-roading with friends that have run up to 4" spacers. granted this is mostly toyota guys so a much lighter vehicle and I would never ever EVER personally run something like that, but I have no reservations running 1" spacers if the BS on the wheels isn't enough.
 

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l wanna know where you got a SRW dana 60 frontend with 4;88 gears , dodge SRW fronts ONLY came with 4"10's and the duallys had 4;88


yup if you use Dodge  dana 60's is a simple bolt in
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

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WFO concepts sells the studs, as does most any good spring shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
does the stock gas tank position pose any problem? 

are there aftermarket tanks with increased range/clearance/skid plates that people recommend?  thinking something like the genright tanks for jeep wranglers but ramcharger specific.
 

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It shouldn’t cause any trouble unless you’re planning to move the axle backward.  The stock tank is 35 gallons, it’s bigger than the truck tanks that were available (22 and 30) and they’re becoming very rare as they are discontinued. Jungle Jim makes a beautiful steel replacement, have a look at his wares in the vendor section.
 

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Ford and Blazer/Jimmy rear tanks can be substituted without a huge fuss. Frame width on those are the same or narrower.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
chuck408mpfi said:
It shouldn't cause any trouble unless you're planning to move the axle backward. The stock tank is 35 gallons, it's bigger than the truck tanks that were available (22 and 30) and they're becoming very rare as they are discontinued. Jungle Jim makes a beautiful steel replacement, have a look at his wares in the vendor section.
are there aftermarket gas tank skids available? my rig didn't come with one and considering I'll be heading to the rubicon/moab with it I don't like having it exposed. if not I'll likely just build one.
 

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RedNeckRea said:
are there aftermarket gas tank skids available? my rig didn't come with one and considering I'll be heading to the rubicon/moab with it I don't like having it exposed. if not I'll likely just build one.
there are "factory" skid plates for the 35 gal plastic tank and l,ve had my 1 ton Ramcharger sitting on it a few times
 

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While Ford and Dodge used the Bendix brakes,  the cables attach differently to the levers. Ford cables hook in, Dodge uses a clip.

Note,  your existing 9.25 cables probably won't work. You can use cables from a 3/4 ton Dodge.

As for the cable to lever connection,  you can probably cut the clip off the Dodge cable to fit the Ford lever. You can swap the Dodge levers in to match the cables (btdt) . You might be able to use Ford cables,  they are a similar routing.

I swapped a Ford d70 into my RC. the spring perches lined up and rotated the pinion up to point at the transfer case. I might still have to add wedges to get the angle just right.

Notes,  I did a shackle filp and 6 inch lift, no blocks.  I'm not positive what year the axle is,  guessing early 80s.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
any thoughts on booster/MC swaps? has it been needed for those that have done it in the past? I can't imagine the stock unit will handle the increased fluid requirements of the discs on the d60 coupled with the larger drums of the full size rear.

it seems like this is the standard for the w250/w350 solid axle 4x4: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=258406&cc=1101991&jsn=948

my guess is it would have the same mounting pattern as the one in my ramcharger but I know based on past experience with other rigs making that assumption can be a very costly mistake. tips before I order would be much appreciated
 

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I was worried about stopping after going to D60/D70's and thought that a Hydroboost setup was in my future, but the truck stops great.

I upgraded the D70 to use 3" wide shoes (from the OE 2.5) which required zero modification, and I put in the 1 3/16 GM spec wheel cylinders (which I found as a popular option on some 1rst Gen Cummins forums) which required zero modifications.

I'm using the OE Dual Diaphragm big block booster and OE master cylinder and didn't even touch the proportioning valve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
shanker said:
I'm using the OE Dual Diaphragm big block booster and OE master cylinder and didn't even touch the proportioning valve.
I'll have to pull part numbers to see exactly what is currently on the rig. it's got the 100 series badges on it, but the PO put in a 408 stroker and did all kinds of other modifications. no clue if it's still factory or not. likely what I'll end up doing is swapping in the axles and doing some light test drives. If stopping is compromised I'll re-evaluate then.

thanks for your input!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
option became available to grab a dodge d70 from a late 80s b350. anyone happen to know if the spring perch width on the van matches up? might be a better option long term than the sterling I picked up.

also fingers crossed I'll have a front in hand tomorrow. then I can start updating this with part numbers and pictures.
 
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