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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently bought an 84 D250 with a 360 and 727 transmission. The power heat valve (valve in the passanger side exhaust manifold) rattles badly when the engine is hot. When vacuum is applied to the valve, is it opened or closed? If I remove the vacuum line the rattling stops. If I disconnect the vacuum line and plug it off, will this be a problem? Or is there a way to remove or disable it? Also what is its function?
thanks
 

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the function of that heat control valve is, to route hot exhaust gases through your intake manifold in order to help vaporize the fuel mixture during engine warm-up.
 

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when vaccum is applied, it closes. So when it's disconnected it will remain open.
I had mine disconnected for a while, but reconnected it when trying to sort out some tuning oddities. It seemed to help. But I suspect there are other problems I haven't got worked out yet that it may be just masking slightly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I did a little more checking tonight. Apparently the valve has been staying closed all the time. After driving around and getting the truck fully hot, the valve was closed (and rattling), I pulled the vacuum hose and the valve opened (no rattling). I reconnected the hose and the valve did not close again. So it would seem once vacuum is applied when the engine is cold to close the valve, the vacuum is not releasing and letting it open when it should. For now I will leave the vacuum line off and plugged.
Anyone know what controls the valve and why the vacuum is not releasing?
 

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the vacuum line runns over to a solinoid under the right side hood hinge /
 

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said solinoid gets elec power from, I hear, a EGR timer on the driver's side fender. I can't confirm that part though.

Half of my emmissions system is missing, so I've been doing a little trial and error playing with mine to try and see what does what with what parts missing. IE, does it runn better or worse with this unhooked. One of them many deals that would be solved with a big block swap.
 

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I've had mine dis-abled for years...
By the way, welcome aboard fellow Utahn. Check out the UT board and introduce yourself! ;D
 

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KThaxton said:
I've had mine dis-abled for years...
By the way, welcome aboard fellow Utahn. Check out the UT board and introduce yourself! ;D
What have you had disabled for years? ??? :eek: ;D
 

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DODGEBOYS said:
the vacuum line runns over to a solinoid under the right side hood hinge /
Right side if you're looking at the engine?
Could you clarify by stating passenger or driver's side?

Thanks
 

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Better hope your egr timers are in place and operating correctly. They're high dollar. One of mine is leaking so I priced them at my local Car Quest. I literally had to pick my jaw up off the floor.,,,,Cruisin

Also I found it nearly impossible to find the right seal. I picked the closest matching one, and trimmed the holes so it would fit.

I guess I'll never understand the "rip it all out" mentality. The more the rural guys pollute, the quicker we ALL will have to reinstall the equipment, and be subject to sniffer tests.

Right side is passenger side, left side is drivers' side. Most vehicle orientation goes by the location of the drivers seat....
 

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Mine has been sealed open; never to rattle again.. A little J-B weld will cure that problem.
I believe my EGR timer is still on the fender.. it was small, out of the way, and no longer had any wires that would correspond to it.
Once again though, I would like to state.. If the motors are in good condition and well tuned; emissions are not a concern. One bad sensor on a new car will make a bigger difference than pulling a few few stray parts off.
The only thing I retained was the air pump.. well the bracket anyway; I hope to mount an additional alternator there one day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well I drove today, probably for the first time with the valve open since I've owned it. No rattle and a noticable increase in power with less exhaust restriction. It did seem to have a little hesitation when it was cold though. I'll poke around more this weekend and see if I can make it functional again. How do I tell if the control solinoid or the EGR timer is working?
BTW: All the emissions equipment is intact.
 

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the reference to near the right side hood hinge would be the passenger side. But the EGR timer stuff is on the driver's side.

Some of my emmisions stuff was missing when I bought the truck and what I have removed was due to faulty parts. With no inspections here, I couldn't see spending the money and time to replace it. For instance, it is much more tolerable to drive without the rusted through leaking air tubes on the exhaust manifolds. But, now there is half a system and some things do not work properly without others, while some stuff does absolutely nothing now. The clutter is also reduced considerably, making other repairs much easier.
 

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Do you have a vacuum hose routing label on the bottom of the hood? When I purchased my RC about half of the black plastic pipes that Mopar used were broken or mis-connected, and I replaced them with rubber.
On the drivers side intake manifold, fwd of the carb are 2 plastic wigits(about "1 in diameter at the bottom with the top shaped like the letter F with two vacuum connectors).
One of the wigits(A) is open when the engine temp. is cold and closes when the temp. is hot. The other wigit(B) does the opposite.
The power heat valve is closed with vacuum( exhaust gas is ported to the bottom of carb to prevent icing) and is open (no vacuum) when the engine is at running at operating temp.(Ref: wigit A)
On my '84, wigit (A) had one connection to manifold vacuum(drivers side aft of the carb.). The other port was connected to the air-pump, the power heat valve, and the EGR solenoid on the passanger side.
I modified my wigit(A) vacuum ckt as follows: (1) manifold vacuum to one port of wigit (A). (2)The other port of wigit (A) goes to the air-pump. (3) From the air-pump it is connected to both snorkles on the air-cleaner. (4) From the snorkles it is connected to the power heat valve.

A picture is worth a 1000 words. Anyone have a simple and free drawing program that this BBS will accept?

 

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cutthroat said:
Do you have a vacuum hose routing label on the bottom of the hood? When I purchased my RC about half of the black plastic pipes that Mopar used were broken or mis-connected, and I replaced them with rubber.
On the drivers side intake manifold, fwd of the carb are 2 plastic wigits(about "1 in diameter at the bottom with the top shaped like the letter F with two vacuum connectors).
One of the wigits(A) is open when the engine temp. is cold and closes when the temp. is hot. The other wigit(B) does the opposite.
The power heat valve is closed with vacuum( exhaust gas is ported to the bottom of carb to prevent icing) and is open (no vacuum) when the engine is at running at operating temp.(Ref: wigit A)
On my '84, wigit (A) had one connection to manifold vacuum(drivers side aft of the carb.). The other port was connected to the air-pump, the power heat valve, and the EGR solenoid on the passanger side.
I modified my wigit(A) vacuum ckt as follows: (1) manifold vacuum to one port of wigit (A). (2)The other port of wigit (A) goes to the air-pump. (3) From the air-pump it is connected to both snorkles on the air-cleaner. (4) From the snorkles it is connected to the power heat valve.

A picture is worth a 1000 words. Anyone have a simple and free drawing program that this BBS will accept?
Free photo site
www.villagephotos.com

Trial version of Visio @
http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/FX010857981033.aspx

Trial version of Smartdraw @
http://www.smartdraw.com
 
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