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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First post pls be gentle.  I have a 89 dodge 4x4 318 w/tbi & headers, replaced frost plugs above the starter almost to the day year later had to change it again. it looked like it was eatin by electrolysis.Pulled the motor replaced all plugs with marine grade added a little paint. reinstalled motor Runs really rough, very rich Codes on the dash 12 ,33, 37, 55 .I went thru all the wiring under the hood looking for bad and brokin wires and retaped the 20yr old wiring al my ground look rightand secure.  Took it in to local shop they put it on the scope it come back with lots of errors 14,22,23,31,37 (check yourgrounds)going thru the wiring dia.it appears to me most are on the same circuit.can someone point me in the direction im not lookin 
 

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Check the connections of the harness *very* carefully.  Look at the ones at the rear of the passenger-side valve cover in particular.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
just finished pulling out the the wiring harness that sits on top the block to the connectors on the passenger side down to the neutral back-up switch and o2 sensor wires nothings burnt or corroded. tested each wire with a tester . While all of this was out of the truck. pull off the plate that hold the vacuum solenoids, the 3 that are on the valve cover. are these identical solenoids?? dont have a vacuum tester put the thing in my mouth (top 2 ports) and force air in,  the egr solenoid bottom port let the air out .this is controlled by the switch no?without power this should be closed??no?...........


there is a violet with a yellow tracer that is connected into a senser on the frontpassenger  of the intake travels into the sbec(if you lean over the fender it would be the closest wire to you on the left)dont see it in the wiring dia. when my truck is running i get a voltage anywhere from 3 up to 23 volts ,(with just a light tester the wire looks like its my signal...  its on... its off ..)
 

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Hardak said:
just finished pulling out the the wiring harness that sits on top the block to the connectors on the passenger side down to the neutral back-up switch and o2 sensor wires nothings burnt or corroded. tested each wire with a tester . While all of this was out of the truck. pull off the plate that hold the vacuum solenoids, the 3 that are on the valve cover. are these identical solenoids?? dont have a vacuum tester put the thing in my mouth (top 2 ports) and force air in, the egr solenoid bottom port let the air out .this is controlled by the switch no?without power this should be closed??no?...........

there is a violet with a yellow tracer that is connected into a senser on the frontpassenger of the intake travels into the sbec(if you lean over the fender it would be the closest wire to you on the left)dont see it in the wiring dia. when my truck is running i get a voltage anywhere from 3 up to 23 volts ,(with just a light tester the wire looks like its my signal... its on... its off ..)
Let's avoid the test light and talk DMM (digital multimeter) with atleast 2 decimal places beyond a whole number. No continuity testing either. It's bogus.

Why? You are dealing with sensors using low voltage sometimes a max of 5v or 8v, and may be producing a signal of less than 1v at idle or other low conditions.

To make matters worse, some of these sensors are only capable of handling milliamps (thousands of an amp .001) and hooking a test light up that may draw 2000milliamps can possibly damage more than it can help. Like trying to run a blow dryer, microwave, and stick welder off of one 15amp house circuit.

Furthermore, it is much harder to describe EXACTLY what a test light is doing when probing various circuits. "it kinda lights up, its really bright, it flickers" is still vague compared to "i have a reading of 5.08vDC between pink wire and purple wire on tps"

One of those solenoids is for the gasoline vapor recovery system, so I wouldn't be putting my mouth all over it. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Have been reading your (sticky)post on "Where'd my electricity went " started out by connecting voltmeter to the battery's positive and negative posts received 12.79 volt, then turn the lights on, voltage dropped down to 12v. Shut the lights out and started the truck up the battery dropped down 9-10 volt then rose back up to 13.5 volt assuming .....While my lights where on had a marker light out inspected all bulbs and connections  ....need to change one bulb ...... then try'd my emergency 4ways. Can hear the flasher clickin on the fuse panel but the left and right blinkers in the instrument cluster are spuratic,,, by wiggling the flasher switch can acutually get the it all to to start blinking proper the sound of the flasher becomes more noticable aswell


Testing the horns, it whale with direct power source but through the horn button on the steering wheel sounds like it belongs to a little car

As for the error codes posted at the beginning of this post
#22 coolant temp sensor 5.02 v 4.84k ohms  cold
#23 t/b temp sensor    5.03 v    5.29 k ohms cold
#24 tps voltage    5.03v  tps closed 1.183 v  tps open 4.12v
noticing the r.w.a.l is also causing the rear brakes to lock up on me
goin to digg deeper into the steering columb
 

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yup with what you have posted above l,d say the connectors at the valve cover
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
cool thx ,I'll look again




Re: Strange Blinker Anomaly. (Update)(again)
« Reply #12 on: January 8, 2010, 10:48:40 AM » 

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Quote from: mopar65pa on January  8, 2010, 09:07:29 AM
That will do it, for some reason they like to back feed each other when the ground is not up to snuff. 


This is exactly why I have been preaching the voltage drop test Tony. In this particular case, you place one meter lead on NEGATIVE post, and one on core support. Obviously since they are both grounds, common sense says you will read 0. BUT common sense is imaginary.

This "backfeeding" of voltage, will show up on your meter. If its over .200V you have a ground cable problem. Simple, done.

I only say this, so next time someone has similar issue, they can whip out meter right away, get a reading and know for SURE.
I've just preformed this test off the neg battery to the rad support the reading I received was-2.4 mv
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
K just finished going thru the wires to the rear of the valve cover. This is what I see from the o2 sensor (2 wht,1gry,1blk...female end outsideconnector?)

....on top of the intake there is the harness which travels thru out the  intake manifold tbi, map collant sensor,etc.ther is a  connector with extra insulation fabric that is possible to fit on the o2 connector (gr/blk*,blk/gr*,blk/bl*,blk....male connecter inside connecter((larger size wires)) ther is a connecter(female) that would fit on the outside of the connecter but only has 3 wires(blk/gr*,gr/blk*, blk) I dont see this connection in the wiring diagram
The harness that goes across the firewall also has a connecter that would fit on the o2 sensor gr,blk*blk/gr*,blk/bl* blk((smaller gauge wire)) gone from stock manifolds --to 2 setts of headers  What would happen if ya mixxed them up  they not that I did thers no way to connect the o2 sensor with the position its in bout foot and half short
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
with the key on ...tested  voltage from the neg of battery to the orange  8 volt input to the distributor received a reading of 9.11v
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ToxicDoc said:
Check the connections of the harness *very* carefully. Look at the ones at the rear of the passenger-side valve cover in particular.
removed the wiring harness from the motor to the passenger side. The Original equipment harness has all the factory end and the splice jobs are still intact no corrosion and no insultion cracksnear the ends

With the key on.
Just finished back probing the connecters over the valve cover and the passenger side. Got a reading....(.1- .2mv)across all connecters
I was curious over this 8 volt input which i got 9.1v(orange wire from dis) not that i did it proper ,I removed the distributor notice some green scum around the wires from the top of the hall effect and dismantled.underneath the hall effect this shaft that spins the (pickup )that cup looking thing with 8 tabs sticking up) was covered in about an 1/16" of white powder looked like corrosion you'd see on a battery post ...........whats up with it..... any Ideas
 

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If you've gone through all the terminals/connections, etc, recheck the codes once more and see if there are any changes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Checked errors twice after messing around yesterday  12,22,24,31,33,37,55 basically ,unchanged but forgot to reset  so I tested again 12 ,33, 37,55 a/c clutch relay , torque converter clutch solenoid,correct??  .....This truck has no a/c in it never has . I have the automatic trans wheres this solenoid or do i have one??
 

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Hardak said:
Checked errors twice after messing around yesterday 12,22,24,31,33,37,55 basically ,unchanged but forgot to reset so I tested again 12 ,33, 37,55 a/c clutch relay , torque converter clutch solenoid,correct?? .....This truck has no a/c in it never has . I have the automatic trans wheres this solenoid or do i have one??
12 is battery disconnected recently
33 doesnt apply
37 doesn't apply to you. you don't have a lockup TC with the 4WD. so it's a false code
55 is end of codes

So, it looks like you're not getting an error code at the moment. Put on hold but don't forget. Have you check fuel pressure? Getting 15 psi? Have you run the truck again? Also, have you tested coil resistance (primary and secondary)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Haven't checked fuel pressure yet ( didn't think it was the prob, injectors  look like my backyard sprinklers :) the coil on the other hand (accel super stock8140) the numbers in my book tell me primary should be 1.34 to 1.55 ohms I get a reading of 1.9 ohms on the bench , secondary my book shows 8.0 to 12.0 k- ohms,,my reading 6.89 k-ohms. Not sure if my numbers a good though, check the resistance of my ohm meter I get 0.4 ohms can I adjust these numbers by that much or just throw them out and get another meter?? it still doesn't put me in range for the secondary no#'s. The motor actually running rougher after cleaning up the distributor going to try new coil.  This one I put in 12 yrs ago when I bought the truck
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
changed the coil with little improvement ...it appear that the crank case has just a little bit of fuel in the oil in...i'm assuming its from all the flooding  thats ben happening bad bad bad the fullMark (line) on the dip stick about 2 inches up...my dipstick reading 4-5inches up dip stick ,where its stamped "see owners manual" still workin on borrowing a fuel pressure gauge to check fuel pressure
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
fuel pressure from fuel rail to tbi 20 psi again 20 psi with fuel regulator hose off pinch off the return line pressure sky rockets over 60psi flooding motor...doh now what ...just started it up long enough to check pressure it DID sound much better without all that fuel in the crank case didn't notice the black cloud from the exhaust as bad ......whats causing the extra five pounds of fuel pressure???
 

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Hardak said:
fuel pressure from fuel rail to tbi 20 psi again 20 psi with fuel regulator hose off pinch off the return line pressure sky rockets over 60psi flooding motor...doh now what ...just started it up long enough to check pressure it DID sound much better without all that fuel in the crank case didn't notice the black cloud from the exhaust as bad ......whats causing the extra five pounds of fuel pressure???
bad regulator or partially blocked return line. I can't think of any other reason.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
just installed the fuel pressure reg. no change still flooding still 20 lbs pressure removed tbi ,washed lookin for blockage???
 
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