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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys!!

The time has come and things have come together to give Bubba a new heart. Mohammed is giving me a motor to buy me some time to rebuild mine. This way I can get Bubba back on the road and do some wheelin!!! Nick(AZ_Trailduster) and his parents have been nice enough to let me use their driveway for the swap. That is cool cuz it will be in more of a central location and hopefully we can get a few people out there to help out. I have never swapped and engine so I can use a couple good brains over there. I think I may have access to an engine hoist, but I am not sure. If anyone wants to help out, I will bring the cooler of pop and some pizza. I will check with Nick and have him put up some directions to his house. Any help would be much appreciated!!! Thanks

Ryan

PS: what parts should I get? I was thinking intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, motor mounts, new belts and hoses, plugs, oil filter, and enough oil to change it, flush it and change again. Let me know if I forgot anything. Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's got a 4" lift and 33's. I guess I never really thought about gettin it high enough. I will have to check with my buddy and see if he had to take off his grill and radiator support. He's got 6" lift and 35's so if he can take his out clean, I will have no problem. Thanks though Bill. I would have hated to get everybody over there and end up having to do a ton more work than expected.
 

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If you have AC, you won't want to remove the condensor, so it would be best to remove the front tires and drop it onto some wood supports to get it low enough, once you are actually ready to hook up the hoist.
Even if you don't have AC, removing the core support is a lot of work and you have to keep track of the shims that fall out so you get it all back together correctly.
Let me know what you don't get that I might have. I can help on Saturday.
 

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Just do what Bill said, take off the front tires and set it on the ground. I mean jack stands. That should give you enough clearance, thats how I pulled the 440, and just pull the ac plumbing out of the way. I won't be able to make it, got trainning in Seattle for 2 weeks.
 

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Just a thought Ryan, if that engine is in one peice why not just install it and go with it instead of changing a gaskets and belts? Unless needed, if its a temp replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well the replacement has the stock manifold but no carb. I have and edelbrock carb and manifold. The edelbrock carb won't fit on the manifold, so I am going to swap the manifolds. I am only going to swap the valve cover gaskets and stuff if it needs it.

How hard is it to change the valve stem seals? Mohammed says that the engine burns oil, probably because of the seals. If they are fairly easy to change, I would like to change those before the swap.
 

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I have done seals on an engine before, my father-in-laws old cadillac. You need an air compressor to pressurize the cylinder, which keeps the valves from falling into the hole when the springs are removed, an adapter from air line to spark plug hole, and a tool for compressing the springs to release the keepers so you can remove the springs to get at the seals in the hole in the log at the bottom of the sea. ;D
Gather all those tools and the parts and we can do it while the engine is still out. Don't forget valve cover gaskets and some hi-temp RTV for front and rear of intake manifold corners.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Bill55AZ said:
be prepared to replace freeze plus, especially if there is even the slightest hint of corrosion....
That's a good idea Bill

I was wondering if somebody had a torque wrench they could bring?? We will need one to put the manifold on. I could also use a spring compressor (for the valve springs) but I can probably borrow one from Autozone. That should be the extent of the tools we will need, although it never hurts to have extra tools on site.
 

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I have a torque wrench. My grand-daughter's birthday party is at noon so I can't stay, but I will bring stuff and see that you guys are properly supervised for the time I am there.
 

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If ya don't have air, don't fret over dropping a valve into the cylinder. Pull all the spark plugs, get the engine halfway to TDC for each cylinder, and stuff 3/8" or 1/2" cotton or nylon rope (only need about 3 feet) down the plug hole, bring the piston to TDC, and there yas go!!!!!!! Obviously, use new(clean) rope that threads off as little as possible.
Mike
 

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I won't be making it, have a prior morning commitment and a birthday party at noon.
If you guys still need a torque wrench, someone should stop by and pick it up. I will leave it behind the "support post" next to the front door if it is needed.
623-412-0084
 

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So.......How'd it go???
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well the noise that I had been told was a rod knock went away. Based on the fact that rod knocks don't just go away, I suppose it was just a stuck lifter, since when I drove it the other day it had way more power than it had before and it was running extremely smooth. I guess the 6 months that I had it stored helped it out a bit!! So we ended up not pulling the engine. We just changed the oil and BS'd a lot. I was gonna go back to Nick's house on Sunday, but ended up going to the shooting range with my wife (she is in the National Guard) and shooting a bunch of machine guns and going for a cruise in a Blackhawk helicopter. I still need to put in a new oil pump and a few other small things, but the RC should be ready for our next outing!!! I can't wait.
 
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