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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so we got the engine to start, but as soon at is was started it revved up to about 2800 rpm automaticly, without anyone touching the throtte.

So we messed with the timing and that didnt do anything it only made it run worse, and then we turned down the fuel/air mixture screws, didnt do anything. Then we turned the throtte screw that was on the carb. linkage down, that didnt do anything.

The carborator only has the PVC, and the dist. vaccumm advance, and the back port is blocked off, and if it was a vaccumm leak it would run like crap, but not cause it rev up right??

Also after we tryed to idle it down any we couldnt i shut it off and we had another ratherly larger backfire, and it acted like it wanted to start again, and then raditor blew a hole and leaked the fluid out, the radiator is now at the shop being tested and repaired

Please Help
Thanks
Kenneth
 

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without it running....you need to look at the throttle plates and see if they are closed.  Sometimes something gets stuck like a linkage connection.  Also make sure your return spring is connected to the right places.  Lastly, a vaccum leak can do this too, so check AGAIN for leaks and ports that might not be capped off.
 

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it sounds like the back barrels of the four barrel are stuck slightly open / which carb do you have on it / if its the Quadrajet if you used the wrong gasket it will make them stick
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Its a Carter AFB, and took it off and inspected it and the thottle plates look like there working fine.

Could the Vaccum leak be in the Intake Gasket? Cause i used the Blue Silicone Gasket Maker, for the short sides of the intake and the blue gaskets that came with my kit for the long sides of the intake

There are two open ports on the Cylinder Heads (one on each side) that like a lil weird to me, but i was told they are just to help it cool, could this be a failure? The heads are 1983 Swil Port Heads

 

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yup Q-jet intake and a "square bore" carb / thats one BIG vacumn leak
 

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DODGEBOYS said:
yup Q-jet intake and a "square bore" carb / thats one BIG vacumn leak
Yep. You need to get a spread bore to square bore adapter plate. Most any auto parts store should have one with their 'performance' and engine dress up stuff. Should help out immensely.
 

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Kenneth Turcotte said:
No i dont have an adaptor plate

Its an Elderbrock 318/360

Heres that Head Port im consered about
The head port in the picture is fine, the head is cast with a gap around the heat riser passage to keep excessive exhaust head from being transferred into the head.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Do you mean like this one??

i read the post that Joe S. posted but it still doesnt really make since, i need it to help cover up the sides of the intake so it would have a vaccum leak?
 

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Kenneth Turcotte said:
i read the post that Joe S. posted but it still doesnt really make since, i need it to help cover up the sides of the intake so it would have a vaccum leak?
What is not to make sense? if you do not use an adapter, you may have problems. ;D

Or another way of phrasing it, install an adapter and see if it fixes your problem.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok so use the adaptor that i have with my 1/2 gasket  ;D

you would think the gasket it thick enough to fix that but i guess not {think}
 

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Kenneth Turcotte said:
Ok so use the adaptor that i have with my 1/2 gasket ;D

you would think the gasket it thick enough to fix that but i guess not {think}
Is your 1/2" gasket the "heat insulator" gasket sold by Edelbrock? If so, Edelbrock says that this gasket is rigid enough and you do not need the adapter.

cjohhny said:
You don't need one that fancy, this is all that is needed (if he indeed needs one).

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-2732/
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
That Heat Insulator came with the rebuild kit that i got at O'Reilly (it also came with another gasket that was the normal one)

ok so do i need to get an adapor plate and use a normal gasket and take off my heat gasket??

or should it be fine using my heat gasket??
 

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It's hard for me to say without actually holding your thick gasket, all I can tell you is that Edelbrock says that theirs is rigid enough to not need the adapter. I would say that if yours is relatively stiff, that it should be good to go.
 

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You could atleast shoot some propane or carb cleaner along the edges and check.

Think about this. If it is running 2000rpm high idle....that air is getting in there somehow.

That's how you control speed on throttle engines, restrict the amount of air that goes in.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I know the air is getting in there some how... {think}

try more like 3000 rpm, at lease it sounds good    ;D

and if it was the PCV valve it would run like crap

and i only have the pvc and distributor advance on the carb, no EGR, and no vaccum amplifier, checked the carborator, and the throttle plates seem to work good, and it would have to be some were around/on the intake/carb

Oh and 1 more thing before i rebuilt it and it was my bros truck, he said he never had a adaptor plate on it, and it ran without one before (i think he just used the heat insulator)


but it would be easier if i had a fixed radiator

 
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