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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so when i refired the engine up it idles at about 500 rpm with the choke plate closed, and when it was running there was a little bit of smoke coming from what looked to be the heads, im thinking its running rich, and we shut it off and it wasn't even running for more than 1 minute and the plugs are carbon fouled and wet, and i just cleaned them off before i started it, the other thing i'm curious about is the electric choke (its hooked up to the positive side of coil, with 18 gauge wire) sucking power from the coil making it not fire at full power, does this sound like an issue?

does this sound like your normal running rich symptoms?

if you turn the idle screws in, does that make it dump more gas in or less? (carter AFB 600)
 

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Yep, find another 12v ignition controlled source.  Using the coil lead can be a problem since the voltage delivered to the plugs can be severely reduced by the drain imposed by the choke.  You can test by temporarily running a wire from the choke to the battery + terminal.
 

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tuning the idle screw in (to the right) should raise the idle
 

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Idle screw in = less fuel at idle.  
Lots of different schools of thought, but a timing light, tach and vacuum gauge can help you tune in your carb as you'll likely need to adjust your ignition timing while tuning the carb for best vacuum at idle.  A vacuum gauge can also help you see if you have any vacuum leaks.
Idle sounds way too low.  Cold idle should be closer to 1100-1200 rpm.  Need to have the engine up to operating temperature before tuning the carb, otherwise you're just wasting your time.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OldGreyRamcharger said:
If your heads are smoking you must have oil leak leaking on to the exhuast. Probably the valve covers
No they were smoking a little bit (not a lot of smoke just a little puffs) where the intake meets the head intake ports

Also cjohhny: how do i adjust the idle speed with the choke on, fast idle cam? i though i had that on the highest setting....
 

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before you even try to adjust your carb i would figure out why the heads are smoking. could be a poorly sealed intake causing a vacuum leak. Spray some carb cleaner to check for a vacuum leak. You adjust your idle with the choke off. Dont adjust the carb untill all leaks are sealed.
 

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What carb?

If you think you have it on the highest setting, then you have more going on than a carb adjustment.  You should still have an adjustment screw.  Like was just mentioned, you need to check for other leaks - vacuum and otherwise.  But I would think a vacuum leak would make you run a little lean.  Again, a vacuum gauge can help.  Leaks will show low vacuum or a bouncing needle.
The white smoke could be coolant - from a leaking intake or head gasket.
 

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he didnt specify white smoke, just smoke, but running rich, burning oil, or coolant would show up out the exhuast not the intake or head. Honestly i,ve never heard of smoke coming from there unless it is a freshly assembled engine running for the first time burning off any excess oil or chemicals on the engine parts or some spilled fluid. Good luck, let us know what you find
 

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Are we still assuming you have yet to accurately set your timing?

I'm not sure if the word "timing" is critical enough, but it's an extremely crucial aspect to getting your engine running properly. Tuning cannot be accomplished without it.

And yes, you should find a separate source for the choke 12VDC+
 

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Turning idle adj. screw in,clockwise, should open throttle plate more allowing more air and faster idle.
Turning idle mixture screws in will lean out mixture and may raise or lower idle depending on initial setting.  Choke plate should be open a little as soon as engine fires up or it will be starved for air.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Guys Thanks for all of the help i greatly appreicate it

so when i get home im going to take that choke power wire off the coil, and find an other spot for it like the pink wire thats on my starter relay cause i gives 12 volts when the key is on, i cut it off cause i dont have my stock ignition system any more...

and

if my vaccum gauge is bouncing around and my tackometer is too them im still missing some where and it could be the fact that the plugs are foiled again, im going to also look down the carb when i restart it and see if my carb is dumping gas down the intake, cause i have been old that the AFB's have a problem with that if the floats start sinking....

and the smoke out of the intake ports i was thinking about it and it could it be that the valve cover gaskets are not properly sealed and could be slinging a little bit of oil in the intake?



 

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on my carter afb i started with the screws out 2 1/2 turns, sat the inital timing at 10* and went from there. i dont know what you've got yours set to, but i'd start there as a baseline.  using your vacuum gauge you can get it dialed in BUT you still have to get the timing right in order to ever get this thing running properly.  every change in timing requires a readjustment on your carb.  a cheap timing light is $30 at your local superpartsmegastore (and even cheaper at harbor freight).  you wont regret spending the $$ on it and i'd just about bet you it will help you solve most of your problems.

also - are you sure you're getting 12V to the HEI module when it's running?  i relayed mine to make sure that it did.  is your coil 12V?  if it's old, and its a stock coil it's not meant to have 12v running into it.  does it still test good (ohm) with a meter?  what about your plug gap?  i'd start checking little things here and there before i ripped off carbs and valve covers.  from reading your threads, i think you are very close to having this thing on the street! 

keep plugging!

matt
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
mcritch said:
on my carter afb i started with the screws out 2 1/2 turns, sat the inital timing at 10* and went from there. i dont know what you've got yours set to, but i'd start there as a baseline. using your vacuum gauge you can get it dialed in BUT you still have to get the timing right in order to ever get this thing running properly. every change in timing requires a readjustment on your carb. a cheap timing light is $30 at your local superpartsmegastore (and even cheaper at harbor freight). you wont regret spending the $$ on it and i'd just about bet you it will help you solve most of your problems.

also - are you sure you're getting 12V to the HEI module when it's running? i relayed mine to make sure that it did. is your coil 12V? if it's old, and its a stock coil it's not meant to have 12v running into it. does it still test good (ohm) with a meter? what about your plug gap? i'd start checking little things here and there before i ripped off carbs and valve covers. from reading your threads, i think you are very close to having this thing on the street!

keep plugging!

matt
Thanks Matt for the help....

i have a vacuum gauge, i have heard some bad things about the tools at harbor freight though

what is the ohm's range for the old canister style coils?

and i will check about getting 12 volts to the HEI module, and to the coil....
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
This is how i have my HEI ignition conversion set up...

and at the splice where the big #1 is set up, i have it set up as a spade connector and if it unplug it and test for voltage on the side of ignition i get 12.05 volts (battery has 12.10 with the key on), but if i reconnect the spade connectors it reads 10.80-10.60 volts (so really my coil is getting 10.7 volts), so something is dropping me 1.20 volts and im not really sure what it is, any HEI guru's wanna help me with this and make sure i did it right....

also my 1977 FSM gives me the ohms range for the coil but it lists two types of coils and i don't know which one i have, and the coil is not labeled....

Name:                   Chrysler Prestolite                Chrysler Essex
Number:                        2444242                         2444211
Primary Resistance:     1.60 to 1.79 ohms          1.41 to 1.55 ohms
Secondary Resistance: 9400 to 1170 ohms        8000 to 11200 ohms


Thanks,

Kenneth

 





 

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the file you reference wont open - it appears to be linked from your email.

i wouldnt bet my life on a harbor freight gun, but it will get you plenty close enough for a once-in-awhile tuning. 

matt



 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
mcritch said:
the file you reference wont open - it appears to be linked from your email.

i wouldnt bet my life on a harbor freight gun, but it will get you plenty close enough for a once-in-awhile tuning.

matt
double checking from what i wired my HEI from it looks right, but im wondering if that 1.2 volting drop is normal and if it returns to 12 volts once the alternator is turning
 

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i know this is getting away from engine smoking, but i still believe that you'd be money ahead fixing this stuff 1st. trying to troubleshoot 9 problems at once makes life, well, difficult.  once you know your ignition is solid, you can time it.  then you can adjust the carb.  and so forth.

i had 10.X volts at mine (87 model) as well.  some of it is the drawdown when cranking the starter and the rest of the voltage drop was in bad battery cables. after changing the cables and cleaning up all grounds i'm only losing about a volt when the starter engages.  i also put a relay on my HEI module.  if you havent done the voltage drop tests (check the how-to's) i'd do that 1st just to make sure.  if you wanna relay your HEI get a 30A relay and wire thusly -

#30 is your power input.  connect to the battery or alternator output with at least 12ga wire.  fuse/fusable link it close to the power source unless you like rewiring things.

#85 is your trigger ground. Run a 16ga wire from this one to any decent ground.

#86 is your trigger feed (the wire that comes on when you turn on the key switch)

#87 is your power output. Connect this to the coil and then on to the HEI.  this will bring whatever power is at your battery to both coil and HEI when the key is on.

did your coil pass its ohm test?  did you see if your carb is dumping fuel like crazy?


matt
 

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And to get back to a point already addressed, your stock coil is not the correct coil for this application. While other's have claimed their stock coils lasted a while under the HEI module, it's still possible that yours is now shitting the bed. You need to stop throwing shit at this truck and handle one problem at a time. An HEI upgrade on an engine that was never running right in the first place was the wrong move. Maybe you should reconsider installing the stock ignition ECU so you can test, tune, and repair deficiencies before moving on to upgrades. Have you entirely hacked the harness to install your HEI upgrade?

Has your carter been rebuilt? Have you gotten a timing light on the engine yet? Have you followed the baseline timing directions proved by ToxicDoc, and, to that point, have you triple checked your firing order?
 
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