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Honestly what kind of towing you going after? Cross country is different than just towing maybe an hour tops both directions.

That will greatly affect what we are telling you. Also what is your true total budget. Reliability is a big factor to think of as well. The 90s autos were not the best in the towing department for longevity behind substantial power or long climbs.

Neil
 

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What are your reasons behind that? Just for my knowledge. Well, the older truck will be all that I have so it is what it is. I think the best for me will be to go with a 5.9 magnum and a A518 transmission.
Newer trucks have substantial cooling systems, and a lot more gears to choose from in the transmissions. As well as computers that help to change shift points for towing. Not to mention creature comforts and sound deadening that make things way less stressful.

Neil
 

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Couldn't agree more with 440 above. Things have changed substantially in the last 10 to 15 years in the towing department.

That 1000 miles will be exhausting in an older rig unless you have the truck fully sound deadened and a decent exhaust. It will further be important to monitor trans and engine temps.

If it was me building a towing rig. I would look at a new hemi and 8 speed setup if I was putting 10 grand or so into a long bed. As long as the controller is readily available for the trans or go nv4500.

If I was around the 5k mark, 5.9 magnum pretty much stock, maybe heads and cam, fuel injection with a rebuilt nv4500 and all required conversion parts pedals shafts couplers etc. Can't beat the manual IMHO.

Neil
 

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There's always the tried and true solution to wanting a reliable tow rig, go with a 6bt Cummins and forget the gas burners, that was the original plan for my W350 and would have been easier and cheaper than the fuel injected and turbocharged 440 by a large margin.
True story you can't beat a Cummins. But gears and transmission become twice as important behind the diesel.

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These old rigs are just fine for hauling! I mean, it's what we USED TO USE just fine in the past. What's changed besides a million speed transmission and anti-lock brakes, that's it basically? These old teams would drive around the country for 10 months of the year and they seem to have got the job done. We got the Dodge Boys hauler, Ralph Earnhardt's truck and trailer, Finnigans hauler that he drives everywhere. New trucks are great but with some love an old truck will do just fine, again, in my opinion. Lol
Couldn't agree more CCB, but compared to modern towing it is light years behind for the driver. Also everyone runs 75 to 80 on the highway and wants 20 mpgs. Those old rigs couldn't do that. Not to mention the creature comforts and tech people nowadays want. Soft is a good word for it. Not saying the OP is or anyone else for that matter, but the newer gen trucks make it easier on you hauling with your hands relaxed at the base of the wheel instead of white knuckling it at the top everytime you hit a mountain side up or down. Finnigan never leaves anything stock either lol.

Neil
 

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Air bags are a great addition. What do you mean 1/2 springs. Do you mean like an overload spring? I would just get new leaf springs and shocks and your air bags. I would also get 10 ply tires.
Agreed. Bags are a good idea but costly.

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I would rather have a manual, but my better half wants to be able to drive it also if she is in a pinch, so I will keep it auto.
Btw teach her to drive stick it can get you out of way more situations than an auto. Lol

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Honestly if you kind find a truck 440 buy it. If your going to try to run a moho 440 you need new mounts, a rear sump pan, and pickup tube at a minimum. That's before getting into the transmission craziness.

Neil
 

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Now take a built 440 say a 540 like Jungle Jim's and run 7 psi through it, now we are talking power!

And maybe a split block too! Lol. (Couldn't resist).

Neil
 

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First are both of these trucks long beds and have the same cab configuration?

I am assuming yes, so as long as those match up you are good for the swapping things between frames. The engine and drivetrain though that is different. You will need to swap the front engine cross member to the 4wd version if you are using the 2wd frame, as well as make new mounting holes for the 4wd transfer case mounts/skid plate on the 2wd frame.

Be sure to use and keep the wiring harnesses the same from each truck, because of different years and different options things can get out of sorts with locations of wires and connections if you try to mis-match them. Keep them together as one unit.

On your frame concerns, I wouldn't worry. The half ton frame in good shape will do fine for the type of towing you are doing. The 1 ton frames are technically different starting in certain years. Someone will chime in with those facts as I have never had the funds to really care since I stick with single cab short beds or tow that heavy to begin with.

As I mentioned earlier if you are body swapping might as well try to put as much sound insulation in the cab/doors as possible. This will give you the best ride and comfort on those long hauls.

CCB and 440 above are right on the engine recommendations, good cam, intake/carb, headers will be your ticket to low end grunt on the cheap. If you can afford it heads will also be a huge improvement from the stockers as well.

Be sure to do your research on some small block builds on the net and actual low end dyno numbers, not the high end fancy stuff with big jumps but the flat torque curves at the hit. That is what you want.

Neil
 

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Yes you can. My old man and I did it once. Used a cutoff wheel to split the heads of most. Then used a air chisel. The stubborn ones we used the torches. I believe just the cross member has 6 or 8 rivets on each side. You will also have to create/drill the bolt holes for the front and rear spring hangers.

Lots of strong forearms and a big drill with corresponding bits will be needed.

Neil
 

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Not to discourage you but it is a ton of work as burban said above. Two guys in a 2 car garage got it done with a couple strong buddies, no lift and some ingenuity. Mind you it took over 2 years for my first build doing this. I still use the frame and portions of the same 2wd to 4wd conversion to this day. I have had no issues with anything on the front end with the swap. Be sure to use grade 8 or better fasteners with locking nuts on everything.

You can always hammer the floor and make a hole for the 4wd shifter if that scares you and can adjust the cab up with body lift bushings by making your own to get everything to line up. It worked for me. Was it show quality? Heck no but with the carpet over the floor you couldn't tell.

In truth though a 4wd frame will be much easier in the work part. Just making sure you get a matching one is key.

Neil
 

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Well, you guys are not making this sounds like it will be much fun. Maybe we should just go back to talking about hp and torque, lol. It does sound like it will be easier to use a 4wd frame. Either the one I have or find a different one.
Post some pics of the rot. We can help you judge from there.

Stripping cleaning and painting should be mandatory on the frame anyway IMHO if you are swapping that many parts. It's a lot more accessible while you have the stuff off . Good wire wheel and sealer is highly encouraged.

Neil
 
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Just as a mention on the RV water pump housing and thermostat issue. Milodon appears to no longer offer the RV style thermostat that Sam had put in his. Him and I conversed about this just the other day. I wanted the milodon version but it is currently not known if they will get any more/manufacture anymore from what I found out. I ended up going with an EMP high performance one made by Robert Shaw. Took me about an hour of digging to find the right part number and style needed as their website is not the greatest. Mr. Gasket still offers theirs, but per reviews they are not to great in the quality department as has been mentioned on this site for a while now.

Neil
 

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This gradual phase out of parts is annoying, I swear everyday something I looked at the day before is no longer available....
I know same thing happened to 2wd ceramic coated headers offered by flowtech. I ordered them through summit I believe the part number is 66003flt or something close. I get an email two weeks later they are no longer available and will not be reproduced. Ordered the 4wd versions and they say they will be available mid February. As a result of getting the 4wd versions (additional 48 bucks) I had to order additional header collectors for another 60 that are 3 inch diameter to fit the rest of my exhaust I already purchased.....

Unreal......

Neil
 

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Man those got expensive, but they are the go to when it comes to intakes for below 6 k rpms.

Neil
 
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