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The '89 360 is the first year for the roller cam and high swirl heads, if it's the original engine it's a vin "Z" which actually has a very decent low RPM torque cam already, if you're looking for towing ability and want a reliable long lived engine on 87 just swap out the stock 2bbl TBI for a good 4bbl torque intake and a Sniper, a good set of roller rockers wouldn't hurt either.
 

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Without cam and compression changes you might be close to the original '71 360s specs of 255hp and 360 ft lbs of torque, maybe a little more.
 
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Small block only on the A518, the Cummins and V10 use a unique bellhousing bolt pattern. If you really want closer to the power level you mentioned a Magnum 380hp crate engine would be the simplest route to take over building a LA 360 to that power level, or go 440 and have it stock.
 

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There are a couple actually, an Ultrabell which requires cutting the cast in bellhousing off at the front pump and another that requires cutting an ear off the engine block under the starter.

Another option is stroking the 360 to 408 CI or more, very good power output and much easier than a big block swap unless you have a BB truck as a donor.
 

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If you want stupid amounts of torque there's always forced induction, the Sniper and Super Sniper both are boost compatible, I'm running 7psi on a 440 that makes an honest 400HP naturally aspirated and well over 500+ HP with 600+ ft lbs of torque on boost, all on pump gas I might add.

I pulled a 5k load with a bone stock '89 5.9 RC for many years and never found it wanting, but it was only a couple years old when I first got it.

Sky Wheel Tire Vehicle Car


This is what my W350 was built to haul, 10k+ was a normal occurrence. The stock 360 was rather lackluster towing the same load but the force fed 440 laughs at it.
 

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I'd start with the Sniper, a good intake and some roller rockers, you'd be surprised at just how much difference a decent induction system makes on the TBI engines, the throttle body is rather restrictive for a 360, plus you can sell the stock parts to someone wanting a bolt on improvement for a 318. A good exhaust system will help as well, good news is being a W350 it'll already have very good gears for towing with 4.10s being pretty much standard equipment. You'll probably want to do the A518 swap just to gain overdrive before doing too much with the engine though.
 

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Look for one from a '90-93 W series, the early ones are non-lockup and the later Magnum units will have lockup converters, later ones can be used but the transfer case shifter mount is on the wrong side of the overdrive unit.
 

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Click on the members icon and there's a message tab in the lower right-hand side of their profile.
 

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Vin "Z" 360 and a rather special exhaust system as mentioned, and a dual snorkel air cleaner with a short air horn with a door that's closed normally.

Font Parallel Circle Rectangle Diagram


This is how the HD exhaust system looks, my truck had a similar system but without converters.

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Vin Z 360 engine, with dual snorkel air cleaner.
 

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Time to decide what to rebuild or upgrade, just did the brakes on my own W350 as the rear brakes were worn out and the booster was leaking so it got rear discs and a hydroboost conversion, it stops better than new now. On the steering do you mean the actual steering wheel as in the column is loose (tilt mechanism) or tons of free play (pot joint/steering box mount) the vibration could be from a couple things, bad tires or u-joints are the most common then worn tie rods.


After a long hiatus and my truck sitting for six years it ended up needing a bit of TLC to get back in order and you might want to look at it's resurrection for ideas for yours.
 

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On the front driveshaft it could be one of several things, the joints in the CV, the pivot in the CV, the front output flange has worked loose (happened to mine) or the bearings in the transfer case (unlikely)
 

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On mine it was the nut that retained the output flange itself had worked loose, ended up having to replace the flange as had beat itself to death and would not stay tight.
 

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Honestly I'd be more concerned with getting all the little things fixed and driving it first before going deeper into it, even stock it's more than capable of doing what you're planning on without a problem, might be a bit slow but it'll do the job.
 

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There's always the tried and true solution to wanting a reliable tow rig, go with a 6bt Cummins and forget the gas burners, that was the original plan for my W350 and would have been easier and cheaper than the fuel injected and turbocharged 440 by a large margin.
 

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I know that would be best, but I know absolutely nothing about diesels. I wouldn't feel comfortable with going that direction.
Keep the oil changed and drive it like you stole it, the harder you work a Cummins (or any diesel) the happier they are. They really don't need anything other than routine maintenance during their normal service life, which is several hundred thousand miles.
 

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Rubbish. Besides have a 35 speed transmission and anti-lock brakes, old trucks with new springs and shocks and tires will haul as good as anything to be honest, just drive better. Since installing new Skyjacker springs and shocks and steering stabilizers and 10 ply tires and 1 ton axles and brakes, my trucks towing ability feels like it tripled to be honest. I forget how much my 18 ft boat and trailer weigh but I literally don't even feel it behind me at all. I used a buddy's new (at the time) Chevy truck to bring my boat home when I bought it 12 years ago and my truck now feels just like my buddy's Chevy did. Old trucks need new suspension, tires and brakes to make them better towers. In my honest opinion.
I've spent quite a few hours driving cross country with a heavy trailer behind many an old Dodge truck ranging from my '55 Job Rated through my '01 Ram 1500, they all did the job without complaining and other than comfort the oldest of the bunch was one of the most capable with it's Hemi and 5spd, both of the same vintage as it is.
 
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Anyone have thoughts on the rear suspension I mentioned?
I've been thinking about doing the very same to mine, the ride quality empty leaves quite a bit to be desired as it is.
 
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I'm assuming that he means a set of half ton rear springs in place of the huge stack that's under a one ton from the factory like mine, they don't even budge until there's a literal ton or more in the bed.
 
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