[wattage]

I’ve been having problems with my starter circuit - I thought I had it fixed, but can only assume that there must be a loose wire or broken fusible link somewhere, but I can’t seem to find it. At first, it occasionally wouldn’t start unless I moved around the cables on the positive terminal - also the starter was going so I:

replaced the starter
replaced the negative battery cable and the body ground
redid the main power wire (just the first 6 inches or so - it was shot)
replaced the positive terminal
replaced the starter relay
sanded the 2 connectors to the starter to get a better connection

This worked for a few weeks - yesterday it died again. The thing is, now the solenoid will click but the starter won’t spin. I visually checked all the wires again and re-sanded the connections to the solenoid but it still did the same thing. The battery is fine. So then I rigged a wire directly from the battery to the ignition switch terminal and it started right up.

Any ideas? I am running out of them myself.

 

[Wile E Coyote]

I think what you are referring to as the main power wire is the batt to relay wire, right? That's what you replaced 6" worth of? I'd replace the whole wire, and with a size larger.

 

[wattage]

I'm not sure that is what it was. My RC has 4 wires connected to the positive terminal - one 4 gauge that goes directly to the starter, one little dinky wire that the diagram in my Haynes manual (yeah I know I need to get the FSM) says goes to the warning hazard flasher, one for the KC Lites, and one other ~6 gauge wire that went into the wire harness and appears to power everything else in the vehicle. That is the one that I replaced - the fat wire with a detachable connector (about 3 inches long) which downsized into a 10 gauge wire (into the harness). The connector and wire were shot - since it turned into a 10 gauge wire, I figured I could just replace it with a clean 10 gauge wire. I could get a heavier gauge wire, but don't see the point if it just connects to a smaller gauge wire.
I think my next attempt was going to be to replace the combined cable that goes to the starter and to the terminal in the starter relay. Anyone know if NAPA has an equivalent part? Or should I just fab it somehow? I doubt I will be willing to pay a dealer their price for the cable - knowing dealer prices...

 

[Chump]

What year and engine are we working with? Still sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere. Is the battery fairly new? Could be a bad cell? I'm not sure if NAPA has the exact replacement but they can get a multiple lead positive battery cable and seperate cables for the relay to solenoid wire.

 

[wattage]

Sorry - 1986 Ramcharger w/ 360 - I will update my profile to include the info - I thought I had already done that.
I'm pretty sure it is a bad connection - just can't seem to find it...

 

[Chump]

replaced the positive terminal

When you say you replaced this..did you install one of those "emergency" type battery ends where you have to cut the cable and slide it under a clamp like the one below?

 

[wattage]

Yeah - that's the exact thing. I stripped all the wires and cleaned them and clamped them down tight.

 

[Chump]

I'll almost bet that is where your problem is...the cable could have alot of corrosion inside under the insulation that you cant see...also these emergency style clamps are really not known for reliability...I understand why you used it due to the cable being a special dude. I would hit up the NAPA store in the AM and get them to help you get a real cable...i think your problem will go away.

 

[wattage]

Got it. Thanks for the help. Replaced the cables to the starter with a real cable. Couldn't see any breaks in the old ones, but must have been there inside.

 

[BrianT]

Actually the cables will corrode fomr the inside out and will not hold any kind of electrical charge like goijgn to the starter i know i need ot replace mine in my truck as well .