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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is the headlight switch usually connected with the ignition key, i.e. can the headlight only be turned on with the ignition on, or is it normal that the headlight can be switched on without even a key in the ignition?
Studying the FSM circuit diagrams I have the feeling that it shouldn't be the way I have it right now: lights go on w/o key, and I'd much prefer if the headlights (not parking lights) would sit on the ignition hot.

How would I go about to do this? Any suggestions?
 

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Mine too, I would like to make mine work like daytime running lights. I usually turn them on anyway but sometimes I forget to turn them off.
 

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if you want daytime running lights, just cut the 12+ hot and hook it to a 12+ switched power, then just leave them on. You can then put a toggle switch in that powers them from the 12+ hot. That way, youhave running lights when the key is on, and you have the togle switch for when you need lights without the key.

All you do is leave the lights on, and the toggle off, and whenever the key is on, you will have daytiem running lights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So there is no easy way to get the headlights switch ignition fed instead of battery fed? It seems that in the fuse block part of the illumination lights sits on Fuse 8, which is battery fed, and on Fuse 14, which is ignition fed.
I figured that instead of wiring in a buzzer, I might as well try and get it ignition fed, just not as a daytime running light.
 

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there is one way. relay the lights but have the main or switched power be hooked to an ignition hot. i was th inking about makin my PW have day runners when i did the relay setup but decided not to at this time. that would be the one way of doing it that would give brighter lights PLUS what you want. hope this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
that sounds like a neat idea...wanted to do this relay thing sometime. Guess it just jumped a little further up on my to-do list. Thank you.
 

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Well, the relay set up is the ticket...gets ya hotter lights and keeps so much juice from going thru the headlight switch. it would also make it easy to convert to daytime running lights.
 

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JCW has a DRL control that drops the power to the lights by 24% so your bulbs last longer. You have to remember, full-power DRL's will cut your bulb life in half or less, and also my preference would be to wire the control (or relay) to turn the lights on only when the engine is running (ie: into the ASD relay). That way, you can have the key on without the lights. The controller would have to be set up to turn on the bulbs directly, not the relays if you have them. It's basically a relay itself with 4 wires: batt, ground, lights, and control. The "lights" lead would connect directly to the bulb.

Just my $.02

Matt {peace}
 

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hey no problem on the suggestion. i just did it not to long ago but i put in a redunacy system just to be safe. i rigged the switch wires into the original headlight connectors and ran the ground for the new ones into the old connectors also. that way if you blow a fuse or a relay gets trashed you can still have lights.
 
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