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Submitted By: mike_wiz
Date: February 10, 2009, 02:32:05 AM
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Electric Fuel pump, Cool Can and Aluminum line install - mike_wiz

(Figure 1)​

Next I went and figured out where I was going to mount the Holley pump. (On a side note the red Holley pump maxs out at 7 psi so a pressure regulator is not needed.) These pumps are pushers so you want to get as close to the tank as possible. I decided on the rear piece of the frame that holds the top of the rear shocks. I had to fabricate a bracket to mount the pump in line with the direction of flow.

I had a 90 degree piece of steel that I drilled to holes in to mount it to the frame (1/4"-20 bolts and lock washers) and two more to mount the pump. Keep in mind that the pump needs to be vertical and this frame piece is at an angle. I would mount it to the frame and then set the pump up and mark the holes for it. Then attach the pump with the mounting gasket behind it to the bracket using the 5/16" bolts supplied with the pump.

(Figure 2)​

While building brackets I just decided to tackle the Cool Can bracket next. You want to go as close to your carb as possible so I removed the washer fluid container (I will move it over and re-mount it) and built a bracket to go where it was to hold the Cool Can. I used 1/4" steel that I bent (not easily) to fit the angle on the top of the fender well. I will show you the pictures but this may be different for different years so every application may not be the same. The circled area on the second picture is the holes for the Cool Can Bracket.

(Figure 3)

(Figure 4)​

I used 4 of the 1/4" bolts to mount it to the fender well. It is a rock solid mount. Although not straight vertical, I may fix this later, but the inside of the cool can will be covered so it is not a concern right now.

(Figure 5)​

After the Cool Can and Holley pump are mounted I started to get all of the lines ran. The first section from the tank to the pump needs to have the in line fuel filter in it. (Holley shows you can run two in parallel for performance, I did not do this but might it the future). The original line is 5/16" rubber fuel line. I kept this the same in the back to make it way easier to install the filter. This filter I got has different size barbs so I installed the 5/16" on the ‘in’ side and the 3/8" barb on the ‘out’ side; this gave me the transition to 3/8" hose. I used the existing line 5/16" line from the tank to the filter and then added a piece of 3/8" line from the filter to the pump which I put the 3/8" hose barb into the inlet side of.

(Figure 6)​

Now the fun part. I routed the aluminum line on the top of the passenger side frame the whole way up. I used clamps I found in the electrical department and used a couple of pre-existing holes in the top of the frame and drilled one myself. I used screws and lock washers to fasten the clamps. Before you clamp down anything you should install the line into the pump or cool can and then work your way down clamping.

(Figure 7)​

The 90 degree 3/8" pipe to compression goes into the cool can and points almost straight down. The Fuel line will come right off the frame and into this. The Cool Can can flow in either direction. The fitting on the top of the picture is the one the fuel line goes into. While we are here, the other side of the Can has the 3/8" pipe to female 3/8" pipe with the 3/8" hose barb into it.

(Figure 8 )​

This is a picture of the straight 3/8" pipe to compression fitting into the pump. Eventually I will install a rock shield around this but it is in a place where the driveshaft won’t hit it if the u joint goes and nothing ‘should’ fly up from the front.

(Figure 9)​

Now I replaced the 5/16" hose barb that came with the carb with a 3/8" hose barb. I contacted Edelbrock and they said it will not be a problem. I ran a short piece of 3/8" rubber fuel line from the Can right into the carb. I will probably replace this someday with some better line but for right now I just need the flexible line there for engine rock. This is a good piece of line to insulate also being that the whole purpose of the cool can is to keep the fuel cold and dense.

(Figure 10)​

You will have to cap off the return line at either the rear by the tank or the front. This is the line that used to go into the side port on the old filter. I just put in a big bolt right into the old hose. I contacted Holley and this is an acceptable way to do this because the Red pump only generates about 4-5 psi on average.

Also Holley recommends the use of a fuel pressure safety switch that connects to the starter solenoid and a +12v switched ignition source. This is a great switch to install being that the fuel pump will only run when the vehicle is cranking over or when the oil pressure is up (engine running), if the motor stalls it will not be on because of the lack of pressure. I will be installing one of these but for right now I just hooked it up to a +12v ignition source and keeping in mind that it will be running. I DO RECOMMEND INSTALLING THIS SWITCH! I will have this by the time this is posted.

As always IMMEDIATELY check for fuel leaks when the vehicle is running. Please contact me with any questions. And enjoy your new fuel system!
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