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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Months ago, my Son and I determined my '85 RC 360 block was overly tired. We bought an Edelbrock Performer Pkg from PartsAmerica web-site (SummitRacing is cheaper!), inc cam, intake, HD valve springs, timing set and a newly reman shorty was purchased on which we soon commenced construction.

NOTE: I had my ol' heads inspected, however, both were cracked. I ordered new ones from the same large SoCal reman which came back unworkable with the new HD springs. (Beware: RC heads have "rotator valves"). It took some time to obtain new rotator heads with the HD springs installed. The new roller timing chain is one King Kong couldn't bend. I have a rebuilt, stock Quadrajet on the new intake.

However, I'm not that pleased with end results. Performance is a whole package from stem to stern. The cam has 3 settings, I feel we mistakenly set the mid one. Likely, should have selected lower rpm torque one(?) and, someday later not sooner, may take all that frontal stuff off, again, to re-set.

With BFG 33s' and stock rear-end, Big Blu wants to get up and go at about 70+mph which is cause for several short-comings: Ain't no way this ol' stagecoach has the suspension, brakes, etc.. to safely match that speed in heavy SoCal Fwy traffic. Secondly, an ol' RC above 75-80mph is much like pushing a barn door. Let's face it, the aerodynamics are like a big ol' 747 trying to stay at 400mph in a 300mph headwind. Lastly, because of heavier lead-foot action, mpg is down significantly.

So, dot yur Ayes' and cross yur tees' on this rebuild jazz.....
Not bad overall costs though. I still have an MSD 6-A ign box standing by, along with some Hedmans (illegal in CA). I need to find matching MSD distributor to finalize that end, along with my current problem of replacing shorted out wiring from alternator to coil/distrib.

I'd like to hear from others who've done an Edelbrock. Performer Pkg rebuild on a 318 or 360. Frankly, I'd go with a slightly wilder cam and a LOW rear-end. Hey, the stock 360 is a bullet-proof, hi-torque, lo-rev deal. Not unlike an old over-size (bore vs. stroke) VW engine out of the distant past.
THANKS!
 

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However, I'm not that pleased with end results. Performance is a whole package from stem to stern. The cam has 3 settings, I feel we mistakenly set the mid one. Likely, should have selected lower rpm torque one(?) and, someday later not sooner, may take all that frontal stuff off, again, to re-set.........

I'd like to hear from others who've done an Edelbrock. Performer Pkg rebuild on a 318 or 360. Frankly, I'd go with a slightly wilder cam and a LOW rear-end. Hey, the stock 360 is a bullet-proof, hi-torque, lo-rev deal.
ok im confused. first you stated the cam was set for more mid range and not as much low end. then you stated you would like to see a WILDER cam. so which one is it? does it need more low end as first stated, or does it need more upper end as stated lastly ???

when you say the cam has three settings do you mean how much advanced or retarded it is?

also it has been noted by several in the past, that the stock cast iron 4 barrel intake is a better piece unless weight is a concern. there has even been instances of a power loss with the performer vs stock intake. chrysler really did there home work when designing the intakes.
 

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Dude that package was not meant to be for a low torque engine set pu anyhow like a Truck or RC . Yank that cam out and install a Hughes engiens cam and you will be much happier and use of 4:10 gears will make it hauil ass guaranteed and do excatly wehat u want performance wise .

bt83rc

PS here is the site for hughes . www.hughesengines.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Per more recent conversation with dodge guys at www.offroadexchange.com - what I meant was timing set/cam choice set to "high" or advanced setting with a 2-4 degree advanced timing.
I wish I had known the Edelbrock might not be good for lower end performance. Which Hughes cam would you reference for better RC lower-end torque, etc.?
It's a given that I must change to lower gearing.
thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What are the spec's on the edel perf package
CHRYSLER 318-340-360 V8
PERFORMER-PLUS CAMSHAFT KIT
Matching camshaft for Chrysler Performer manifolds #2176 and #3776. Not for 1985 and later roller lifter 318 V8's. Use only stock ratio rocker arms. Do not use dual springs. We recommend #5877 or #5977 valve springs for optimum performance.

Performer-Plus Camshaft/Lifters/Lube Package #2177*
Use Edelbrock #7803 timing set for best performance. DO NOT use stock timing set.

Duration at .006 Lift: Intake 270° Exhaust 270° Centerlines
Duration at .050 Lift: Intake 204° Exhaust 204° Lobe Separation: 110°
Lift at Cam: Intake .280 Exhaust .280 Intake Centerline: 106°
Lift at Valve: Intake .420 Exhaust .420
Timing at .050 Lift: Open Close
Intake 4° ATDC 28° ABDC
Exhaust 36° BBDC 12° BTDC
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Installed same kit with Milodon Cheater Gears and 1.6 Crane Roller tip rockers @ 4 Dergree ADV on Cam gear.
Rocks the 318****
Thanks for your comment. Regarding the cam/timing set; did you set on "low, mid or high"? Please explain the "cheaer gears" and the Crane rockers were that much better, also, in conjunction with the Edelbrock HD valve springs?
regards
 

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Sorry could'nt get back Sooner. Cheater gears are Milodons Gear set up for timing very presice. Also 400.00+ from Summit and you will have to tap Block with type f drill bit.Degree was 4Advance. Spoke with Edlebrock on several calls concerning 1.6 Rockers no problem with 360 heads or
318. Need cupped push rods that arn't in set. I ran 1.5 in and 1.6 out I ran 1.5 in 1.6 out. I ran 1.5 all and 1.6 all Where I have left it for tha last 9500 miles. 1.6 will give different duration and slight timing difference. It worked the best. At
that point I started with the Top Shot Nitrous set-up and after a little wrenching it came together perfect. Oh lift with 1.6 is 448in and out across the board. Also One complete turn on threads for adjustment. Hope that helps. Do not over tighten
Rocker adjusters. They break after 100miles and there a pain with red loctite on them. They back off and start banging but
stay in the cup, just really annoying and loud!!!!
 

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It is true that they have 8 to 1 or even 7.7 to 1, and the big blocks too, and yes the added comp will help
 

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dad has a coworker who bought a very nice 79 chev 3/4t pickup with a 400sb with 70k. it was kind of a dog so he put in the edelbrock performer package(rv type cam, lifters, springs, manifold and 600cfm carb) after all this he noticed very little difference to where he (albeit arbitrarily) guesses it gained him 15hp at best. gets about 5mpg with a 10ft camper and is a real dog up the passes. about 10 without. for as big an engine as it is and a decent amount of mods this seems pretty pathetic. hes pretty mechanically inclined too so i assume he did it right.

i recently put the edelbrock performer manifold and 1406(600cfm) carb on my 318. used to have the lo-po 2bbl holley setup. sure improved drivability but i didnt gain much for hp or torque. sure looks nice though and runs so good. in hindsight i might have just sprung for a quality 2bbl. im no ace engine builder but i also think compression is the key. thats what the early pre smog engines had over the later ones. if i ever have the heads off i think i will shave them and stop messing around. -ryan
 
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BTW - who told you Hedman Headers are illegal in California. I put a set on my 76 RC while I still lived in California. The RC passed smog (visual and emissions). In fact, when I first bought the headers, they came with a piece of paper that says they are 50 state legal (that includes California)!

???
 

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I'm not sure what years the swap was made, so I could be wrong, but I'd bet the reason headers are illegal on his truck is the AIR injection ports that later trucks have and earlier ones do not. The headers would not incorporate those ports, which would have to be tapped and plugged so as not to leak to use the headers, thus eliminating some emissions equipment and rendering it illegal.


By the way, thanks for the review. I'm still in the planning stages of what to do about my 318, which will need a rebuild soon, and the Edelbrock package was one I was seriously considering.
 

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I did that same setup 12 yrs ago on my 78 powerwagon, it worked fairly well but not real impressive, I went to a hughes 1019 AL and it seemed much better, they said I would not need headers with this cam and you don't, but I had some super comp hookers ordered and put them on anyway, and did it ever come alive with those on there, it was actually fun to drive! Just make sure whover puts the springs on, also cuts the guides down because stock guides will not allow over about .450 lift I think it is. Dan
One more thing, the performer is a 318 manifold, you have to at least gasket match the ports because they are the small 318 size, I had a few hours into mine but worth it.
 

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Hey 4 winds, you need to pull the front cover and put the crank shaft sprocket in the 4 degrees advanced position! I had this similar problem with my 80 ramcharger (318). If you read through your edelbrock instructions carefully they will explain why you need to do this. Chrysler retards the timing at the crankshaft for emmisions and they only way to get that cam to work properly is to get it timed right! Good luck.
Kaleb
 

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I know this is an old topic but I just happened upon it. Just my 2 cents: For starters you need to degree any new cam, not just hope that its ok; the intake is designed to work with smaller port 318 so it is probably worse than your stock intake;this setup will really wake up a 318 but the cam isn't really any better than a stock replacement 360, some people recommended Hughes camshafts but I've heard terrible things about customer service if you have problems with their products. Degree your cam or go with a new Comp Cams ,(great tech line,very helpful), put on your headers and your stock intake and I bet you'll be happy. Don't claim to be an expert, just speaking from experience.
 
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