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dodge82273 said:
many of the bits you buy today if you look at them closely , you'll see that the tip is formed a little differently than the remainder of the bit . they are Formed then ground sharp , older bits were ground from drill rod , you could snap one regrind it and have the correct end , not possible with today's bits .. (Pop was a tool and die maker at one time )
I broke one of my cobalt bits just recently. Stuck it in the Drill Doctor and put a new tip right on it. Other than being shorter... it cut with hot flakes of metal flying again! ;D
 

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Discussion Starter · #142 ·

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dodge82273 said:
many of the bits you buy today if you look at them closely , you'll see that the tip is formed a little differently than the remainder of the bit . they are Formed then ground sharp , older bits were ground from drill rod , you could snap one regrind it and have the correct end , not possible with today's bits .. (Pop was a tool and die maker at one time )
Most newer drill bits have a tapered web (Think center stem), so one needs to also thin the web as the bit is ground down.

Surprisingly (at least to me), nowdays, most bits get the flutes ground or cut in, then the blank is twisted, heat treated, and final ground.
 

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faster, cheaper , and yes flute needs mod after 2 -3 sharpings , how many have the knack ?
 

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looks to me like YOU may even know what a "green stone " is ,  ;) yeah , it would take me a few grinders with different width stones to "do" some of my bits , sometimes I just get another one , I'm no were near the talent the "ole man had . But then , I chose a different career path too ...
 

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Mojack said:
I've only been at it for 41 year, I'll get the hang of it some day. We've got cabinets full of them.
Looks like you've been drilling metal with some wood bits there. ;D
 

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Maybe you should get pizza next time, Duddie.  :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #150 ·
Howdy there Guys and Gals,
On today's episode I use Science and Chemistry to the restore the Frame on my 1983 Dodge W350 Project.

 

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Warm clothes and cold beer is way more fun than you portray it. Go Hawks!

Did the old camera get ruined?  This vid was noticeably quieter. 

Also, what's the name of the rust converter you are using? Did I miss it? 
 

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ProjectM880 said:
Howdy there Guys and Gals,
On today's episode I use Science and Chemistry to the restore the Frame on my 1983 Dodge W350 Project.

I'm all about using Corroseal. It's a shame the label was gone though. The biggest thing to worry about is contaminating it and/or not applying enough. If it turns a tan color, it was contaminated (water, degreaser, etc.) which requires sanding and re-applying, and if it doesn't turn full black it means to apply more. I always apply more when it's still tacky, but I'm pretty sure the label says to wait a day or so before applying a top coat of paint.

My current top coat of choice is Rust Seal by KBS, it's essentially a more modern blend of what Por15 is but has 2X solids content.

This isn't clay chemistry, so it should be easy! (I spied that ole' M-I shirt :) ).
 

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Discussion Starter · #153 ·
TheBohunk said:
Warm clothes and cold beer is way more fun than you portray it. Go Hawks!

Did the old camera get ruined? This vid was noticeably quieter.

Also, what's the name of the rust converter you are using? Did I miss it?
Sorry about the sound, my editing program actually updated before I finished and it messed all the sound up. I will get it fixed for next video.

shanker said:
I'm all about using Corroseal. It's a shame the label was gone though. The biggest thing to worry about is contaminating it and/or not applying enough. If it turns a tan color, it was contaminated (water, degreaser, etc.) which requires sanding and re-applying, and if it doesn't turn full black it means to apply more. I always apply more when it's still tacky, but I'm pretty sure the label says to wait a day or so before applying a top coat of paint.

My current top coat of choice is Rust Seal by KBS, it's essentially a more modern blend of what Por15 is but has 2X solids content.

This isn't clay chemistry, so it should be easy! (I spied that ole' M-I shirt :) ).
Yeah I had spots I didn't clean well enough for sure. Works pretty good though.

HAHA Of course you would spot the shirt!
 

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ProjectM880 said:
Yeah I had spots I didn't clean well enough for sure. Works pretty good though.

HAHA Of course you would spot the shirt!
:) I became a believer in Corroseal after taking my beach shovels that I was ready to throw in the trash due to rust and hitting them with a nylon cup brush (like a wire wheel but with nylon instead of wire) then treating with corroseal and continuing to use them weekly at the beach. New rust did start to form in the areas that the sand wore the coating off of and because I didn't paint them since they were my experiments. But ALL existing rust was stopped in it's tracks. Those shovels get submerged in saltwater to rinse them while packing up and that's about all the care they get. If you can remember, they said 3% by Volume chlorides is the most corrosive concentration in mud school, and that's what sea water is. So adding a few years to shovels that most people would have thrown away is what sold me on it.
 

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ProjectM880 said:
Sorry about the sound, my editing program actually updated before I finished and it messed all the sound up. I will get it fixed for next video.
Not a gripe, just something I noticed.

Who's the Hawkeye fan in your vid? ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #157 ·
TheBohunk said:
Not a gripe, just something I noticed.

Who's the Hawkeye fan in your vid? ;)
Hawkeye? You must mean one of the Canadians from BTP in the Video hahaha
 

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{gloating}

You know these are great to show us what not to do.  LOL.....  ;)
 
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