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Discussion Starter · #121 ·
Howdy there Guys and Gals,
On today's episode I make little gain with a lot of pain while I continue on the Prospector Project!
 

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Well. At least it isn’t 7 and snowing.

Good vid though, I dig it. Dodge trucks, heavy metal and a unique sense of comedic timing....I think we’d get along just great. Only way to make it better is some cheap beer.
 

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{gloating}
 

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Discussion Starter · #127 ·
Howdy there Guys and Gals, On today's episode I haul off one of my parts trucks, pick up the Death Charger, and more importantly I go get Tacos!!!

 

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Fingers sticking through holes in the gloves.....it's the little things that give a man street cred.

I always look forward to your work. 
 

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Discussion Starter · #129 ·
TheBohunk said:
Fingers sticking through holes in the gloves.....it's the little things that give a man street cred.

I always look forward to your work.
HAHA Thanks, I really do need to get new gloves
 

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Garage gloves go through stages kind of like clothes. They start out nice and new, later as they wear in, they become dedicated to certain purposes.

By the end of their lifespan, my garage gloves will have all the fingers cut out at the second digit, and even then they are still good keeping your big knuckles safe.

Come to think of it....I don't know if I've ever really thrown a pair away. 
 

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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
On today's episode I drill holes in the frame and instantly start regretting my decision to convert a 2wd to 4wd........ But luckly I go get Tacos!
 

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ProjectM880 said:
On today's episode I drill holes in the frame and instantly start regretting my decision to convert a 2wd to 4wd........ But luckly I go get Tacos!
{gloating} LOOKS LIKE ME! :p
 

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I just got through drilling 6 holes in my frame to move the trans mount crossmember back. All that to put a new fangled trans in my truck. I have a "Drill Doctor" https://www.amazon.com/Drill-Doctor-Sharpener-Engineered-Versatility/dp/B000BKX9CU/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=Drill+Doctor&qid=1617072926&sr=8-4
A very handy tool to keep you bits very sharp. Along with a good set of Cobalt drill bits.
When you get the right combination... they cut like going through butter. The metal flies! So much so... you better wear eye protection!
I've found if your using a "template"... just use the right sized bits for the finished hole. Just drill enough to get a nice center dimple. Then go with a smaller bit to get your first hole through the frame. Then attack with the finish size bit.
 

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This build is making me less and less inclined to go ask about the early 80s crew cab parked down the gravel road.
 

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ProjectM880 said:
On today's episode I drill holes in the frame and instantly start regretting my decision to convert a 2wd to 4wd........ But luckly I go get Tacos!
After doing a bunch of holes like that in converting my Clubcab to 4wd, I found a better way. Drill the pilot hole with a 1/8" or so drill. Then use a cheap step drill, to get the hole to size. They will last forever, as the body wears, the neutral cutting angle stays the same. Also you keep using a new cutting surface as the hole gets bigger, so they do not get as hot. If they do get a burr, a sharpening stone quickly fixes them. I broke one, other wise I would still be on the same one that has easily done 80 to 100 holes. I like the one on the left, it takes smaller cuts, and the final one is 1/2" which is my go to size for many things frame related. Makes finding bolts easy.
 

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This guy does a great test of some of the better step drills. Take note, most that performed poorly were due to the bit having poor starting ability. I would like to see him do the same test with pre drilled pilot holes, I bet the various drills would be closer in performance. Also note, how fast the bits go through the steel after the nose is through the steel.

 

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Discussion Starter · #137 ·
mopar65pa said:
{gloating} LOOKS LIKE ME! :p
Haha The struggle is real!

KurtfromLaQuinta said:
I just got through drilling 6 holes in my frame to move the trans mount crossmember back. All that to put a new fangled trans in my truck. I have a "Drill Doctor" https://www.amazon.com/Drill-Doctor-Sharpener-Engineered-Versatility/dp/B000BKX9CU/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=Drill+Doctor&qid=1617072926&sr=8-4
A very handy tool to keep you bits very sharp. Along with a good set of Cobalt drill bits.
When you get the right combination... they cut like going through butter. The metal flies! So much so... you better wear eye protection!
I've found if your using a "template"... just use the right sized bits for the finished hole. Just drill enough to get a nice center dimple. Then go with a smaller bit to get your first hole through the frame. Then attack with the finish size bit.
I use to have a drill doctor but it only sharpened drill bits correct twice and then went to crap. But that was a long time ago, I might have to look at them again. Thanks For the Tip!

TheBohunk said:
This build is making me less and less inclined to go ask about the early 80s crew cab parked down the gravel road.
Its a slippery slope hahaha Way more work then I originally thought!

SuperBurban said:
After doing a bunch of holes like that in converting my Clubcab to 4wd, I found a better way. Drill the pilot hole with a 1/8" or so drill. Then use a cheap step drill, to get the hole to size. They will last forever, as the body wears, the neutral cutting angle stays the same. Also you keep using a new cutting surface as the hole gets bigger, so they do not get as hot. If they do get a burr, a sharpening stone quickly fixes them. I broke one, other wise I would still be on the same one that has easily done 80 to 100 holes. I like the one on the left, it takes smaller cuts, and the final one is 1/2" which is my go to size for many things frame related. Makes finding bolts easy.
SuperBurban said:
This guy does a great test of some of the better step drills. Take note, most that performed poorly were due to the bit having poor starting ability. I would like to see him do the same test with pre drilled pilot holes, I bet the various drills would be closer in performance. Also note, how fast the bits go through the steel after the nose is through the steel.

I just got some step up drill bit to try out. I was just worried that that would leave a taper if that didn;t make it through the frame completely. Thanks for the Tips, I like Project Farm! That guy does great work!
 

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a tight hole is a good thing ......
 

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ProjectM880 said:
I use to have a drill doctor but it only sharpened drill bits correct twice and then went to crap. But that was a long time ago, I might have to look at them again. Thanks For the Tip!
I've found with a Drill Doctor you have to "lay into" the grinder. That is... grind the bit into the stone numerous times to get a complete cut done. Fresh new surface on the bit. Works every time. And the sharpen last quite a while.
Also the cobalt bits seem to respond well with this system.
I couldn't believe how fast I cut through my frame. Like I said... hot pieces of metal flying! ;D
 

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many of the bits you buy today if you look at them closely , you'll see that the tip is formed a little differently than the remainder of the bit .  they are Formed then ground sharp , older bits were ground from drill rod , you could snap one regrind it and have the correct end , not possible with today's bits .. (Pop was a tool and die maker at one time )
 
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