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errrr....what's your current setup? manifolds or headers?

you can Y-pipe manifolds into one pipe, then into a single inlet/dual outlet muffler and run the tailpipes back which sounds really awesome. If you do it like that you'll probably want the tips coming out the back or to the sides behind the rear wheels. This requires a little more bending. YOu can also Y-pipe headers but you can order a Y-pipe for stock manifolds. You'd have to have someone fab up the Y-pipe for headers.

If you have headers it's easier to run true dual pipes all the way out the back with your mufflers around the rear drive shaft area. The only bending will be to get the pipes over the rear axle. If you want even flow between the 2 banks of the engine you can put a crossover pipe that connects both exhaust pipes on the rear side of the transfer case. (if you have one)...however, true duals do have a unique sound.

With headers it's probably the easiest to run a few feet of pipe straight back and exit tips in front of the tires.

I'm guessing you already have a Y-pipe from your manifolds so the easiest way would be to go buy a single inlet/ dual outlet flowmaster 50 series DeltaFlow and have someone bend the duals out the back for you. You'll like it I promise.

Hope this points you in the right direction.
 

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What's your budget like? Summit has headers for $80 and a Dynomax dual kit that runs in front of the rear tire for somewhere around $200. Pretty easy install, I had to loosen up the drivers side motor mount and jack the engine a bit to get that side in...other than that you have to move the vacuum ball (there is a how to on it...but it's just drilling a couple of holes).
Tim
 

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I run true duals on my RC with the jegs headers (not a great fit, had to pound a pipe cause it was touching the frame). Depending on the year and emmisions in your area you may have to run Cat Convertors on both sides. I do. Because of this by the time you add mufflers and get by the TC case you are about in the middle of the rear tires so I went right over the rear axle and out the back. It get to be a tight fit back there to get around that HUGE fuel tank but I got a couple pieces of flex exhaust pipe and bent them to shape, then I took these to my local exhaust shop and had him bend me the piece in hard pipe. A couple of welding hours later a true dual system emerged. I did have an H pipe also but could not get the clearance with the front driveshaft. If you want I can send you some pics to give you an idea.

Mike
 

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my system cost me 500 bucks went with hedman headers that i installed that had all the pipes bent up so nothing in below the frame rails man is it tight beside the transfer case then 50 series flowmasters at about the back seat tailpipes turn out behind the rear tires.another point i was told to always do on a truck like ours is never run the pipes strait out the back because the fumes could come in the rear gate
jason
 

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my setup is stock til about the cat. manifolds into the y, y into the cat. cat into a cherry bomb, bout a 24" one. that splits into two and jumps the axle and goes straight out the back. sounds good with the 318. it was like that from the previous owner when we got it. eventuall i might have it dump before the rear tires.
 

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forgot to say, sounds wicked...youll like that kinda setup. if ya got cats you barely need a muffler. mine is burnt out and it sounds fine.
 

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You have a cad axle set up in that 87. I ran a dual exhaust system that i fabbed up Myself. There's a vaccuum Ball that sits on the tranny crossmember on the drivers side of the truck this will have to be relocated to make room for the left side exhaust system. I wrote a how to with pictures and a detailed description it is in the How to section.. http://ramchargercentral.com/boards/index.php?board=&action=howtoshow;id=58 thats the link to the HOW TO.
Good luck and let me tell you it makes a huge difference in the sound and overall feel of the truck. I might suggest that you not run the exhaust all the way to the rear of the truck and bring it out of the sides just before the rear tires. save a little on exhaust pipe and it sounds and looks way cooler that way.
Rodney E. Reed aka
mid_evil_thymz
 

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As said earlier a cross over pipe helps equalize exhaust presure, this only works if the pipe lenghts of the left and right pipe are the same. if you really want to get technical go with a X-pipe setup, the sound is a little diffrent but its sweet. I also gained 5hp at rear wheels with this setup because it actully begans tp pul the exhaust. I didn't belive it at first but it actully worked.
 

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X pipes don't work correctly unless they're in perfect equally and toward the front and they are more for upper rpms, and in a truck being it would have to be so far back it wouldn't work to well
 

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If you have emissions testing in your area, you will be hard pressed to find any shop that will touch anything before the catalytic converter(s). Along these lines, if you can find a shop that will ADD a catalytic converter to the vehicle (as happens when running true duals) they will not likely be in business long. While it seems perfectly logical and environmentally friendly, it is completely illegal....and the shop gets hit with a $25,000 fine if they are caught...for the first offense (three muffler shops have gone under in the last year up here due to emissions nazi's "cracking down" ) If your RC already has two cats....one for each bank (I am assuming 318 or 360), then it is not a problem. If you have a 225 slant six, it will be happier with a single 2.5" pipe. I have true duals on my slant, but it is heavily modified, and not emissions compliant so I cannot drive it except in the summer.....

I am curious as to how those of you running pipes down each side get around the fuel tank? My duals run down the right side of the truck because the fuel tank leaves no room (with adequate clearance for heat dissipation) on the left side...any pics?

-SM
 

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on a pickup have them like the stock setup and go out like a y but run them as seperate pipes next to each other and out before the right rear tire. a buddy did it on his 400 powered early 80s 3/4 ram. sounds good. on an rc just run them back all the way andd jump the axle and out under the bumper of run them out before the tires.
 

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how do those summit headers work for ya? do they hang below the frame level? any leaks? im thinkin about gettin a set of those but not if they hang too low, its a 2wd and i plan to lower it more.
 

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Here is a pic of mine. You can see how they hang in ome of the pics, and how they look exiting out the side. I have no probs with leaks, but Ised a gasket and some red rtv to be sure. Check the condition of your motor mounts before you put them in...especially the driver side one. If they are too crushed and beaten up replace them...not hard at all, just unbolt one and put the new one in (after jacking up the engine). I had to jack up the driver side of the engine to get that side in...the passenger side went in easy...just a bitch to tighten down. For the price, it's a good deal IMHO.
Tim
http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?selected=577678
 

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StandardByker88 said:
how do those summit headers work for ya? do they hang below the frame level? any leaks? im thinkin about gettin a set of those but not if they hang too low, its a 2wd and i plan to lower it more.
They are working great for me. They do not hang below the frame, no leaks. The only complaint I had is the left was in the way when replacing the starter.
 
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