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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I purchased this 90 w250 a month or so back...it was lifted with blocks front and rear.  The front look like typical 2 inch lift blocks...look like they were installed well.  And yes, I know front lift blocks aren't absolutely correct, but it is what it is and will serve my purpose and will pass inspection.

The truck drives fairly good except for bump steer, and mainly when the front lifts (porpoises) or the axle drops.  I don't think it has a drop pitman arm, would just a drop pitman cure most of that bump steer or would I need other parts? 

What is curious to me is that the drag link is almost flat as it sits, it isn't like it has a lot of angle between the pitman and steering arm.
 

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I would pull the front lift blocks. If you want lift, invest in 2 inch lift springs. Not just not correct, but, could be dangerous.
 

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In the picture you posted ,That's not your drag ling, that is the center link for your tie-rods. Drag link connects your pitman to the steering arm
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Jeffy45 said:
That's not your drag ling, that is the center link for your tie-rods. Drag link connects your pitman to the steering arm
I guess someone needs to close this thread...I will figure this out on my own.

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Your truck is riding like shit, because of thoes blocks in the front.
 

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    How and what is your toe,camber,and caster.  Alignment?
 

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Toss the blocks, they are illegal in most places because they are not safe.
 

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Jeffy45 said:
Your truck is riding like shit, because of thoes blocks in the front.
Blocks will not affect the ride.
Jeffy45 said:
In the picture you posted ,That's not your drag ling, that is the center link for your tie-rods. Drag link connects your pitman to the steering arm
Its a tie rod. A center link is the link between the two idler arms, or idler arm, and pittman arm, on independent front suspension steering linkages. Then you have the left and right tie rods connecting the center link, to the steering knuckles.

Many parts [places list the drag link under center link, but that does not change that it is still a drag link.

steved said:
I purchased this 90 w250 a month or so back...it was lifted with blocks front and rear. The front look like typical 2 inch lift blocks...look like they were installed well. And yes, I know front lift blocks aren't absolutely correct, but it is what it is and will serve my purpose and will pass inspection.

The truck drives fairly good except for bump steer, and mainly when the front lifts (porpoises) or the axle drops. I don't think it has a drop Pittman arm, would just a drop pitman cure most of that bump steer or would I need other parts?

What is curious to me is that the drag link is almost flat as it sits, it isn't like it has a lot of angle between the pitman and steering arm.
As you know, the picture you posted, is the tie rod. Look at the drag link, the link from the steering box, going back to the steering arm. Thats the one you want to be level. Either a drop pittman arm, or a raised steering arm can work.

Not to add to the horse beating, but front blocks are illegal in Pa now. They added it back about 2000. Here is a copy of the right section, from the inspection manual. About the same time, they allowed state and local police to be able to cite you for inspection violations, so just getting a sticker does not keep you safe. Whats the chance of getting caught? I knew a state trooper from York area, that took pride in all the violations he could spot, Unless you were an ass to him, he would just give you a warning, but then its on the books that you know you are wrong, so you have the risk of getting caught by anybody the next time. A local cop pulls you over for speeding, and sees that you were given a warning, so he now knows to check if you fixed the issue, if not, that adds to what he can get you for.

Nuff said. Nice truck. {cruise}
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Jeffy45 said:
Your truck is riding like shit, because of thoes blocks in the front.
Truck rides stiff because it has six leaf front springs, it's a w250, and has 3500 overloads in the rear...blocks have nothing on the ride.

The truck actually rides very well for what it is...tracks straight, tires are worn smooth. So go guessing on someone else's thread...oh, and it was aligned in 2013 (with this lift), I have the paperwork.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
SuperBurban said:
Blocks will not affect the ride.Its a tie rod. A center link is the link between the two idler arms, or idler arm, and drag link, on independent front suspension steering linkages. Then you have the left and right tie rods connecting the center link, to the steering knuckles.

Many parts [places list the drag link under center link, but that does not change that it is still a drag link.
As you know, the picture you posted, is the tie rod. Look at the drag link, the link from the steering box, going back to the steering arm. Thats the one you want to be level. Either a drop pittman arm, or a raised steering arm can work.

Not to add to the horse beating, but front blocks are illegal in Pa now. They added it back about 2000. Here is a copy of the right section, from the inspection manual.

Nuff said. Nice truck. {cruise}
Ok, that's not what I was told by my inspection mechanic...so he may not be up on the laws. I did ask this question before I bought the truck...

I only had a picture of the passenger side, just to show the block...then had some smart ass get his joys off on that photo. The drag link is only at a very small angle, almost level, but not quite.

Ok, springs...WHOSE?? I've only seen one set that will work on a w250 and a Cummins....I've already committed to 315x75r16s, so I have to clear those. If I'm going to replace the front, I might as well do all four packs...

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          Call it what ever you want, this is a drag link. Nobody's  bashing any thing. 6 years is a long long time for an alignment. 
 

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If you want me to be a smart a** I'll be a real f**en smart a**
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Jeffy45 said:
If you want me to be a smart a** I'll be a real fucken smart a**
Go ahead, show your true colors...your not helping. I've been around these trucks 40 years, I know what a drag link is...

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I am trying to help, enough w/ the smart ass . How do your alignment  specs pan out today 2019,. Any loose worn joints? Any thing steering? Do you have or try a stabilizer? Which will only mask the problem.
 

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And yes super it is a tie rod which connets to your tie rod ends
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Jeffy45 said:
I am trying to help, enough w/ the smart ass . How do your alignment specs pan out today 2019,. Any loose worn joints? Any thing steering? Do you have or try a stabilizer? Which will only mask the problem.
They were good when it was done, that may have been six years ago but it was less than 5k miles ago...the PO was stationed in Texas, then moved to New Jersey, truck was trailed from Texas.

I went through all the joints, nothing that appears worn...the PO did a lot of work when the alignment was done, including a new drag link.

Again, the only time you see the bump steer is when the suspension unloads. No large dips, it tracks straight, it rides good.

So off the bump steer, what springs are recommended? Springs better be first, then worry about the steering later (while this truck is registered and plated, it is not inspected or being driven, if it sits a few more months so be it).

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If that stuff checks out a 2" drop pitman arm may just solve your problem. Maby?
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Jeffy45 said:
If that stuff checks out a 2" drop pitman arm may just solve your problem. Maby?
Maybe, but doesn't cure the blocks...

I did order a dual stabilizer, but it's not installed. That was an afterthought more for show.

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I myself like skyjacker springs for the price, you said diesel  though, correct? Do not know how they would fair w/the extra weight?
 
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