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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have an 89 Ramcharger W150 318 with 4wd. I have gone through 2 upper yolks on the rear drive shaft in 2 years. The first was the factory one, one of the sleeves for the u joint cracked open when I pressed the old ujoint out. The second yolk was from an 87 w250 power Ram with a 318 4wd. They were direct fit for eachother so it was no problem. I pressed a new u joint in and put the yolk on the driveshaft and it lasted for about 7 months before the truck started making very loud vibration noises like the transmission was going, and that’s what I figured it was. I planned on bringing it to the tranny shop a week later, but within a couple days of me going there the u joint finally let go and blew the yolk apart. Now I know there’s nothing (immediately) wrong with the tranny. Another thing to add is I have owned this rugby 5 years now and changed that particular u-joint at least 3 times (besides the new u-joint with the new yolk) and I was just wondering where I can find another yolk. To specify I need an 89 4wd without overdrive upper driveshaft yolk. It’s 29 spline like all late 1986+ Ramcharger’s use. And also another thing, could there be something causing the serious need for u-joints all the time. My truck isn’t lifted so there’s really no added stress to it.
 

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1 if that IS a photo of your truck , it IS lifted and the joint could be binding from that , 2 as soon as someone says PRESSED u joint , I know there is a LARGE probability it was damaged when installed , and you can do that over and over and have the same result . A vice , a press , a big c clamp , none of these are used by myself to squeeze ( press) a u joint together  , or apart . The risk of displacing / breaking needles , crushing yokes , with out even realizing it is far to great .  I am fully aware that every "book" you read , " U tube"  you look at , and likely 95% of the "teachers" out there tell you to press them , one way or another ..  I was lucky , in 1970 I had a 55 year old automotive engineer teach me NOT to do that , and WHY not . 
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Okay then smarty pants what’s your magical way of getting them in there? 1.)And no that is obviously not my Ramcharger considering I just said my Ramcharger is not lifted, you know, earlier where you should’ve been reading. And 2.) really that Ramcharger in my picture is lifted? Jesus H Christ I had no idea. Thank you for the clarification. Without that I never would’ve known. Also since this website is shit when it comes to uploading photos of course I cannot get a picture of mine on there. Also it’s youtube and why is book in quotation marks as well? God you seem like an entitled old fart for someone who has little to no internet experience.
 

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by cleaning the yokes , deburing the yokes , inserting the cross , holding it up placing the cap on it then into the yoke , and tapping it down too far installing the c clip )properly( flipping it over pulling the cross PARTWAY outa the cap holding it up , installing the other cap and tapping it down .  I put up with yer wise comments because while I'm not asking for your help , at least you understand how many folks ask if their truck is lifted or not and I don't know anything about your tube , but I do understand about some things , like young wippersnappers :) LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I really don’t think you do understand about “young whoopersnappers”, and also how does someone not know if their truck is lifted. I think even with a 1” over lead spring kit there’s a difference. Factory ride height ((for my year rc) allows nothing more than 31” tires. Rule of thumb according to that, if you can fit tires bigger than that, you have a lift kit installed. Again, all I need is someone’s input on where to find a new yolk for the upper rear driveshaft. OEM or NOS or used in like new condition. Some help with that aspect of the post would be greatly appreciated. 
 

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Everyone here needs to calm down so I don't have to get my hammer dirty. 

With that said, this the Vehicle Help forum, where we discuss how to do repairs and modification.  Wanted posts belong in the Classifieds' Wanted forum.  Be aware that it can be very hard to find a new yoke for a Detroit 7260 series joint.  The vast majority of replacement driveshaft parts use Spicer joints.  Good used may also be difficult to find as Detroit yokes were made of soft metal, are easy to damage and can wear out with time and mileage.  Also, FYI, the yoke you are looking for is most commonly called a slip yoke, that should help you find what you need.
 

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o.k. I'm calm , and thanks , "old fart '.  LOL  ;D
 

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I would recommend having a new driveshaft built. Replace the yokes with spicer 1350 sized joints and never worry about it again.... or hit the junk yard for more used parts
 

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If you're looking for the rear 7260 yoke for a NP241, I think I still have the one that I took off my 1990's NP241...

But @dodge82273 makes a good point. Regardless of what the noobers say on YouTube, "pressing" a u-joint is something I'd only attempt in the field if I was short on repair equipment. I've seen more joints damaged by a press than successfully pressed in the first time (and that's not an exaggeration!).

If you clean the cups properly, deburr and ensure the yoke is clean, a few light taps with a hammer gets the caps seater properly. Getting the cross removed can also be accomplished with smart use of a hammer. Check out the "Thor Method" here:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
pc1p said:
But @dodge82273 makes a good point. Regardless of what the noobers say on YouTube, "pressing" a u-joint is something I'd only attempt in the field if I was short on repair equipment. I've seen more joints damaged by a press than successfully pressed in the first time (and that's not an exaggeration!).l]
I wouldn't know what noobers on youtube say, I don't use it for a repair guide. I use whatever tools i have access to in my garage. I don't know if old farts have a stereotype for younger kids where they think all we know how to use is youtube tutorials for help, but if so, I am not your stereotypical "youngster," I'm about as traditional as it gets when it comes to cars, and most anything else. I even rarely use this website. The only thing holding me back from gently tapping the u-joint in is the lack of tools. I have a press, but nothing to deburr the yolk. So choice A it usually is. Now that that's out of the way, I will be honest in saying I'm not certain which yolk I was using to begin with, because that is broken and long gone, is there any way to see if your yolk would work?
 

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dodge82273 said:
by cleaning the yokes , deburing the yokes , inserting the cross , holding it up placing the cap on it then into the yoke , and tapping it down too far installing the c clip )properly( flipping it over pulling the cross PARTWAY outa the cap holding it up , installing the other cap and tapping it down . I put up with yer wise comments because while I'm not asking for your help , at least you understand how many folks ask if their truck is lifted or not and I don't know anything about your tube , but I do understand about some things , like young wippersnappers :) LOL
Sic 'em Dodge!


You know I just don't like the idea of "tapping" the caps into place.
I use you principle of making sure the caps are seated into each cross and no needles are shifted out of place. Then slowly press them together. Constantly checking between the caps with the cross piece.

Just watch your yolks... they might get scrambled. The yokes on the whippersnapper. ;D

Don't get mad 89ramcharger150, be patient with us old folks.
Wanna race? ;D
 

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LOL yeah Kurt , CAN be done w/press , same idea should be used however , push 1st cap in too far , so with out removing the cross FROM that cap all the way , the opposing cap can be placed onto the cross , guaranteeing the needles are in place . Then push that cap into yoke , also returning the 1st one to its proper place , TROUBLE with that , you either know your press , or watch the tonnage , because squashing the yoke is easily done , and it don't take much ( VERY LITTLE) for the inside clips to not fit .  The hammer I use for assembly is smaller than the little caps of the small joints dodge uses , and will not cause deflection of the yokes ears ..
 
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