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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know the lengths, center to center for the front and rear drivelines on a stock Ramcharger? The reason I am asking is that I want to move the engine back on my ramcharger's frame so that the front and rear driveshafts are the same length. Gonna get started on the next mopar project. ;D
 

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Actually u got the RC already ? I would mark the frame where u are gonna set the engine mounts . Then measure the distance from those points . Still be hard to know what the lengths are gonna be till gotthe engine tranny and t-case mocked up then u cna get good measurememnts for new shafts .
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What I have is a bare frame. I don't know if you remember the black RC that I used to have, but it is that frame. All I want is the dimensions of the stock RC's drivelines so that I can get close. I am building a tube chassis truck kinda like cagedodge.
 

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Without looking i believe the rear shaft is 10 to 12 inches longer, if you are looking for dead center, put your rears in and then set your t-case in and position it until you have the same measurement front to rear from each flange, then instal that and bolt your trans and motor to that, you really don't need to know the drive shaft lengths because neither measurment is going to be helpful since 1 is going to get longer and the other is going to be shorter, niether shaft will be a stock length driveshaft so position your rears and t-case 1st forget stock measurements just put it out of your mind
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Evildriver-3 said:
Without looking i believe the rear shaft is 10 to 12 inches longer, if you are looking for dead center, put your rears in and then set your t-case in and position it until you have the same measurement front to rear from each flange, then instal that and bolt your trans and motor to that, you really don't need to know the drive shaft lengths because neither measurment is going to be helpful since 1 is going to get longer and the other is going to be shorter, niether shaft will be a stock length driveshaft so position your rears and t-case 1st forget stock measurements just put it out of your mind
I get what you're saying, Marty, but I wanted to have just one extra driveshaft that I could use on front or back. If you say it is 10" longer, then I will move the engine back 10". I am just trying to get pretty close. It is cool what you can do as far as engine location when you don't have to worry about a firewall.
 

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Right Drew when you get it all set up then yes you can have only 1 d-shaft the same length so it can be either front or rear providing neither end uses a CV end on them or both use a CV end
 

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how about just fabbing on of those "emergency drive shafts"? people take sqaure tubing and weld a yoke to the end. they then take a slightly smaller piece of square tubing that just fits insdie the larger. it makes a extendable driveshaft.

very cheap. very easy. allows for more flex. not for street driving.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Oh yeah, only 5 inches. I might make one of those emergency driveshafts, but I have some extra stock ones. This truck won't be street legal. I am gonna do away with the CV like Marty said, I have done that before with success.
 

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Well, from what I have had to deal with, you need to make sure the tcase yokes are the same for both shafts.

I would leave the cv joints on both of them at the tcase, and use coil spring for really good axle travel.

What the heck, if yer building it from scratch, why not ???????

I'd personally go with a divorced tcase and just move the tcase back, instead of hassling with having to fab up engine and tranny mounts.

Or maybe use the stock location for the tcase and trans/engine, and go with a splitter or dual tcase option that lengthens the whole mess.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
TheRamChargerMan said:
Well, from what I have had to deal with, you need to make sure the tcase yokes are the same for both shafts.

I would leave the cv joints on both of them at the tcase, and use coil spring for really good axle travel.

What the heck, if yer building it from scratch, why not ???????

I'd personally go with a divorced tcase and just move the tcase back, instead of hassling with having to fab up engine and tranny mounts.

Or maybe use the stock location for the tcase and trans/engine, and go with a splitter or dual tcase option that lengthens the whole mess.
You have a bunch of good ideas, but I already have the stuff I am going to use, which is a bunch of 80's RC parts. I am gonna keep the cost down on this one.
 

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Yeah and then your stuck with a nose heavy truck again, where as moving everything back balances everything out better
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Evildriver-3 said:
Yeah and then your stuck with a nose heavy truck again, where as moving everything back balances everything out better
I am still moving everything back, but I am not gonna use coils, or a divorced Tcase
 
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