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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just picked up an 89 Ramcharger that im really excited about but i need some driveshaft help to get her goin. Ok, Let me run through truck specs really quick, 89 RamCharger 5.9 360Ci, Auto trans, 241 t case, dana 44 rears when we picked it up. It was a police truck used to put out cones for 15 years :)

So anyway we picked up the truck a while back and had a blown up long bed with 8 inch lift, 3/4 ton rears and 38's. After Swaping everything to the RamCharger all it needs is drive shafts and its good to go.

Ok the Questions: Its a half ton drive shaft on the ramcharger but a dana60 rear so obviously the u-joint does not fit the yoke. Also Im pretty sure I need to shorten a drive shaft because the rear is longer than the dana 44 was.

Now, do I Change the yoke on the rear so the half ton driveshaft u-joint will work? Or do i change the u-joint on the transfer case, get a drive shaft off a 350, and have it shortened at the shop? Or do iI go a different route?   
 

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First off, there has never been a D44 rear axle put in a Dodge truck.  It was either a 8 1/4" or 9 1/4" Chrysler Corporate.  Generally the driveshaft will need to be shortened about 2" when just swapping in a D60 rear but if you swapped the lift also it will be best to measure the distance between the center of the U-joint cap on the axle yoke to the transfer case yoke with the vehicle resting on the suspension and road ready.  Take that measurement to a driveshaft shop and they will fix you up.  For the yoke, if it is a Spicer U-bolt style yoke you would probably be better off to have a matching yoke put on your driveshaft when you have it shortened.  If it's a Detroit strap style yoke like what was on the Ramcharger rear axle and the U-joint is larger than the Ramcharger joint then it is a Detroit 7290 joint.  You can get a bastard joint that is half 7260 and half 7290 to join them together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ah yes excuse my errors i was in a heck of a hurry earlier when i wrote that out. I did not mean to say dana 44 rear it is a 9.25, simply a force of habbit. Also the D60 that went on is a detroit strap style yoke like you said. Ill look into that u-joint at the machine shop thats going to do my driveshaft. It is also a 7290 yoke on a front d60 rear correct?

Also Will I run into any problems if I put 1"Drop spacer between my t-case crossmemeber and the frame to lessen the rear driveshaft angle at the t-case? I wasn't sure if it would tilt the t-case to much and put a bad angle on the front driveshaft. Ive seen alot of people do this but then alot of people say no. I Like to check with like 50 people before I do anything so please excuse me.

Any help is appreciated thanks guys.
 

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No problem on the D44 bit but I'm a stickler for terminology since this post will be around for years and someone else may look at it in the future looking for similar help so I like to correct whatever I find to help people down the road.  With that in mind, to save confusion, it's best not to refer to all axles as "rears".  I know that is a common term and many people still use it in different areas of the country, but it can cause confusion when discussing a "front rear", lol.  ;D

The U-joint on a front D60 can vary.  In some cases, like with my front and rear D60s, the joint is a 7260, just like the stock 1/2 ton axles.  Some heavier models got the 7290 and a few models got the Spicer style yoke that I can't seem to remember the model number for the joint.  Generally if the axles are a matched set from the same truck the yokes will match but if they are not a set then it's anybody's guess.

I personally avoid dropping transfer cases as that actually makes things worse.  While you are easing the angle on the rear drive shaft by angling the rear yoke down, you are making the front shaft worse by angling it up.  The front shaft is the shorter of the two and more likely to give you problems so I would avoid making things harder on it.  In addition, the correct way to set the U-joint angles is to have both yokes within 3° of each other.  Change in one and not the other just causes vibration since the elliptical motion of the U-joints no longer cancels each other out.  If you are breaking U-joints from the extreme angles with a tall lift, the better of the two would be to cut the perches off the rear axle and angle the pinion up and re-weld the perches and then overfill the axle with gear oil to keep the pinion bearings lubed.  That would still cause vibration, but it would not "bottom out" the yokes.  The correct method to fix the rear driveshaft issue would be to use a double-cardan shaft on the rear like the front shaft.  With a double-cardan you angle the rear axle pinion so it is inline with the driveshaft with no angle on the rear U-joint and then weld in a new plug up higher in the axle cover to fill it with more fluid.  Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Id rather not call them rears either, actually I hate calling them rears. It does confuse everybody.

Now that I see you can get combination u-joints for just about anything you could possibly be putting together, I was wondering If anyone uses a chevy drive shaft for the front, to me they seem to have longer yoke arms on the shaft its self which would prevent pinching and hitting the yoke straps a little further. I feel like the dodge drive shaft yoke arms are so damn short and stubby. If this makes sense I was wondering which year chevy I could pick a front drive shaft off of that will have the right cardan to bolt to my 241 t-case?

I would love to do a double cardan on the rear shaft but I'm not sure if its in my budget, I'm already looking at a $300 shortening job. I may look into readjusting the perches if i need to, I already have 6 degree shims in the back I'm going to go check tommorow and see how my angles are.

Im loving the help by the way I really appreciate it. I forgot how much I love this site I will definitely be donating to keep it alive. {cool}
 

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Yes, there are a few guys who run GM front driveshafts as they do seem to have more clearance.  I know it requires a swap to the GM D44 axle yoke but the GM shaft should mount to the Dodge transfer case flange.  I'm not sure what model to get a shaft from but it has been detailed before by members who have done the swap.

Always glad to help.  ;D
 

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Elwenil said:
Yes, there are a few guys who run GM front driveshafts as they do seem to have more clearance. I know it requires a swap to the GM D44 axle yoke but the GM shaft should mount to the Dodge transfer case flange. I'm not sure what model to get a shaft from but it has been detailed before by members who have done the swap.

Always glad to help. ;D
I am one of first guys that used the GM shaft method to correct for 8 inches of lift on my W250. Was trying to figure out a way to do away with the constant binding i had with my Dodge shaft one night in the shop with a couple of buddies over and a fridge full of beer. We were about to throw in the towel when someone had the bright idea to check out the two picked over K5's that i had been parting out behind my shop {idea} Somebody may have come up with it before me but it was just dumb luck on my part to get the idea to work with junk I had laying around ;D

Pull driveshaft from 80's model Chevy K10 pickup or K5 Blazer that had a part time NP 208 or 241 case. Pull pinion yoke off a 70's 1/2 or 3/4 pickup that had a Dana 44 front end. Grind stops out of CV joint and do a little radiusing with a die grinder.

Install both said items and enjoy your new upgraded front driveshaft to counteract a 6-8 inch lift on a Dodge truck that cost less than 50 bucks at a junkyard ;D

We have also done this swap on my buddies 86 W150 with a 6 inch lift and i've advertised the idea quite a bit here on RCC and several other people have expressed interest and asked me questions about the swap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
" Grind stops out of CV joint and do a little radiusing with a die grinder.  " Only spot you lost me on? Im a little confused as to what this is for? Can anyone put in lamens terms. Thanks
 

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on the cv yokes there are a squared off stop tab on the radius on each yoke ear.  these need ground off and all the sharp edges of the yoke smoothed with a die grinder to prevent binding due to the angle.  You have to do the same thing with the Dodge shaft in most cases as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just picked up a front drive shaft off of an 89 suburban. Made sure it had a 241 t-case so the cardan should match up well. Anyone know what style u joint it is in the chevy shaft I thought it was 1310 but I want to be sure. Also what would be the normal detroit style pinion on a D44Hd front axel? Most likely from an 80's dodge. I need a combintation u-joint so i just wanted to double check. I know for the back shaft i need a 7260+7290 combo joint to meet my D60 rear. Just need to know the front before i order them.
 

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Should be a 1310 according to my Precision U-joint manual.  Most D44 Dodge axles use the Detroit 7260 joint.  To my knowledge there is no 1310 to 7260 combination joint so you will have to get a 1310 yoke.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p468_dodge_7260_to_1310_series_combination_u_joint...spicer_greas.html
^Will that work? It says outside to inside. Im not sure if this is to mate a 1310 shaft to a 7260 yoke or to mate a 7260 shaft to 1310 yoke. It can be used both ways cant it?

If Im way off, and I do need to get a new yoke, I need to get one from a 70's dodge or chevy D44 correct? The splines will be the same as my d44 and has 1310 yoke arms? Would I be able to use the one from the chevy I pulled the shaft from? It was an 89.

Lets say I had a Dana 60 front lying around, well because I do and i may just put this on now. This front axel that matches the rear axel would have a 7290 yoke on it then, correct? If I couldn't find a u-joint what kind of truck would I need to pull a yoke from that would receive the 1310 shaft? Or would I then need to order one?

Sorry for so many questions in one post. I need this baby moving or the township likes to fine people 2g's per day once its passed the given date.
 

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Hmm, it appears that it would.  I have never seen that before.  I wonder what brand that joint is though.  I can't locate that particular part number anywhere else so it may be something made in house.  Might be worth a try or it might be a inferior joint.  I'd probably Google around to see what people have to say about that site.

If you need a 1310 yoke you will have to get one from the aftermarket or from a '70s GM truck with the D44 axle.  To the best of my knowledge, no Dodge D44 has used a Spicer joint in the modern era.  As far as the splines, I'm going by what Psycoticredneck posted as I am not very knowledgeable about GM trucks so when it doubt, count the splines.  The closer to the early '70s and older that you get, the more chance that you are going to run into a course spline pinion.  I doubt that the '89 would have a D44 as GM switched to the 10 bolt to replace the D44 long before then but again, I'm not real good with GM trucks.

On the D60 rear, it could have one of 3 or 4 different yokes depending on the options.  7260 and 7290 are common, but there are too many variables to predict what a given axle would have.  1310 yokes do exist for the D60 and are pretty common as I think a lot of Ford D60s used that joint but I know about as much about Fords as I do GM so don't take that as gospel, lol.  You can also order yokes that use much larger joints to suit your power levels but they are expensive.
 

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the D44 pinion yokes i've been using have been yanked from various 75-78 Chevy 1/2 tons.  Drive a new pinion seal in and bolt it on.....easiest axle mod ever LOL. 

Not sure if pre 75 models had different splines pinions.....actually i thought all Dana 44 pinions had the same splines period regardless of what they came out of. {think}

Corporate 10 bolt axles came out around 79 or 80 in the Chebby trucks. 

I am not a GM parts expert by no means either.  I just lucked out and had these two GM trucks sitting behind my shop being parted out.......one a truck that the owner didn't want to pay the bill for repairs I did and the other a truck my buddy bought for parts and had nowhere else to store it ::)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The stock yoke on the front axle on a 3/4 ton truck(dana44hd).... Is it going to be a 7260 joint or 7290 to match the rear d60 joint? I must know i may need to change my order i just put in.
 

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There is no way to know for sure without looking and measuring the yoke as it depended on the year and how the truck was optioned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
alright cool got all my u-joints ordered up. I ended up not even needing a conversion joint for my rear. I just have one last yoke question. A dana44 from our dodges is likely to have a 26 spline pinion? And one from a d60 is to have a 29? I Just need to get a yoke arm still.
 
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