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drilled and sloted

3010 Views 30 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  SeahawkDodge
;D i want sone actual feed back on the drilled ,,,sloted ... and the drilled /sloted roters... am in a quandry as to what and why one is better ..

have read the drilled hold sand, mud and water,, the sloted push it to the outside..

on a standerd, there is a gas build up that keeps you from having all of the surface being in contact...heat is a factor on the std re..the gas build up.

the price isnt the factor.. it is the best to stop you that i want ..have just orderd all heavy all heavy duity parts to replace the complete system on the v10 .. the 94 has lousy brakes they are all gm. and to small.

thanks quinn
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The drilled rotors cool better by all the added area for air to flow over, the slots are for removing dust, is it better than factory discs you bet it is, you have increased cooling and slots to remove dust and extend brake life.

Sand finds it's way into everything, my view on sand is to not sink in it
The drilled rotors actually create more surface area which helps to disapate heat (Such as the fins on an air cooled engine) To a much lesser extent, slots also create more surface area, but not much. As ED-3 stated, the slots help reduce dust. If keeping your rims clean is your purpose go for the slots otherwise don't waste your time and money.

Yes the drilled rotors will fill up with dirt and grit depending on how deep you'll sink your tires into your favorite terrain.

thanks all ///.that is exactly what i wanted to know quinn mod.. you can delete this at your disc/////qp ;D
drilled and slotted are purely cosmetic street mods
your street pads do not gas
you are losing mass so reducing braking
You don't trully believe that they are only for looks do you
i do ,so why not the pads ;D .. to late i took responsable advice ...they are in the way ... thanks all / quinn
yes, I KNOW it is a cosmetic only mod
do you truly believe it is otherwise on a vehicle using street pads?
;D ;D well not being an enginer and cant spell either... i called wagner /// they said under a normal condition there is hardlw any problems..

but when one starts changing things you no longer have the norm... you have gone from a tire of 29" to one 35" sone 30 # per tire more .. this additional diamiter .plus the weight,can cause many conditions ,not encounterd with a stock veh ..especialy a much higher heat from the force needed to stop the veh.. so it could cause the pads to react .with different,problems .. ie a lack of adheason to the roters from the pads.

he also said the drilled and sloted [could] eleminate this condition... there by letting the pads do their job more efficent.

he would not be able to realy say any more than that.from a liability point and thanked me for the call :-X ;D :)

quinn your turn
If you drive faster than 50 mph and come to full stops frequently, this design is for you, if you have larger tires (heavier more stopping force, and heat is created) this design is for you, if you pull or carry heavy things, this design is for you.

My friends used to love watching flames shooting out from all 4 wheels on my black magnum, then we tried the drilled and directional vaned rotors, they no longer enjoyed watching the car get hard on the brakes for a turn or come to a stop, so i would say just by there disapointment it works
I drive pretty hard, and I went through a couple sets of regular replacement rotors fairly quickly (warped them). Since I put the drilled and slotted rotors on, I haven't had any problems, and they probabaly have more miles on them then both of the regular replacement rotors combined.
i feel better now??he he ... they just arrived.. will instel them tomorrow,will let the new seat in ....then compair and ill see how long it takes to stop before and after
What are the benefits to Crossdrilling, Slotting, and Zinc-Washing my rotors?
In years past, crossdrilling and/or Slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads began to break down at extreme temperatures. This condition is often referred to as "green pad fade" or "outgassing". When it does occur, the driver still has a good firm brake pedal, but simply little or no friction. Since this normally happens only at temperatures witnessed in racing, this can be very exciting!

However, with today's race pad technology, 'outgassing' is no longer much of a concern. When shopping for races pads, or even ultra-high performance road pads, look for the phrases, "dynamic surface treatment", "race ready", and/or, "pre-burnished". When these or similar statements are made by the pad manufacturer, the pad in question will likely have little or no problem with 'outgassing'. Ironically more pedestrian pads used on most streetcars will still exhibit 'outgassing', but only when used at temperatures normally only encountered on the racetrack.

Although crossdrilling and/or slotting will provide a welcome path to expend any gasses when and if they develop, it is primarily a visual enhancement behind today's often wide-open wheel designs.

Crossdrilling offers the greatest gas relief pathway, but creates potential "stress risers" from which cracks can occur. Baer's rotors are cast with crossdrilling in mind, from the material specified, to curved vanes, behind which the holes are placed to minimize potential crack migration. Slotted surfaces are what Baer recommends for track only use. Slotted only rotors are offered as an option for any of Baer's offerings.

Zinc washing is then done to provide a barrier, which resists development of surface scales or rust.
I like the flame story even if I do not believe it
I have boiled the fluid on too small brakes many times as a nitrous'd 5.0 mustang owner
Lol try stopping a b body from 150 mph into a 20 mph turn, also don't forget this wasn't a drag car that went out made a pass stopped once and rested, for a drag car this isn't a issue since everything is lightened and there is no repeated braking.
Driving a truck like trying to qualify for a SCCA road race and you'll have brake problems in no time, then adding a trailer or weight or heavier tires (larger tires) also hurts and in some cases needs more clamping force and area
Evildriver-3 said:
Driving a truck like trying to qualify for a SCCA road race and you'll have brake problems in no time, then adding a trailer or weight or heavier tires (larger tires) also hurts and in some cases needs more clamping force and area
Yup, driving like that is why I kept warping rotors. I haven't had any brake problems since, and since the cost wasn't that much more than stock replacements, it's well worth it to me. My truck stops better, and I'm not changing rotors like they're going out of style. ;D
well// i guess when you search long enough, you can come up w/ the answer to back up any statement ... ;D
but as ramtuff said they are here, they are paid for,they are made in canada, so they should be good quality ... they have had enough testing in nascar. so they might be ok ... and as soom as i do the stop testing ill post it.
am going to try 30 and 70 w/ a :p little brake riding on both to see if any fade :p
the old ones have 150k on them so its about time w/ the 35s on it..
i do apreciate all of the feed back. and like the round brown spots //// we all have one[ opinion] that is ;D ;D

I am guessing you have never heard of Baer Brakes?
they sell slotted and drilled rotors for street posers as well as real racing brakes and everything in between
the quote is from their site
fantastic ill look them up i have never heard of them thanks quinn
I heard of baer brakes, i don't use them
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