I think I have a single clunk when I go from reverse to drive, and a double clunk (thats "clunk..clunk real close together) when I go from D to R. I'm not able to work on my truck for another week or so and I am alone for now. Just thought I would mention some of the problems raising their ugly heads for members comments and experiences. I hope its Ujoints or linkage to the transfer case?? but its pretty strong clunks.
Double clunk from tran / transfer case?? when I go from D to R
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Do you have a Divorced t-case ? .... If so look at the intermedaite drive shaft ( one fron the trans to the t-case )
If not put the rearend up on jack stands and check for slop in the PINION bearing....As well as the rest of the you joints..
Does your t-case hum or growl ? do you have a 205 or 203 t-case
If not put the rearend up on jack stands and check for slop in the PINION bearing....As well as the rest of the you joints..
Does your t-case hum or growl ? do you have a 205 or 203 t-case
Bummo:
The reason I ask is I have a manual and it 'bucks' a little when reversing. I have concluded that the chain in the TC is stretched (slack between front and rear driveshafts confirmed this - See below for test.) IMO, the first clunk is the normal "Initial load" clunk.
When you shift into reverse, the trans starts turning backwards, taking up the slack in the top of the chain till it snaps tight against the o/p shaft. "Clunk!"
To test TC Chain (This is just like a timing chain slack test): With the wheels chocked, Shift TC into 4Hi and Trans into N, hold rear shaft and try to turn front shaft. If it turns more than a degree or two, the chain is stretched. [If you have CAD system, shift with engine off so the front axle doesn't lock, If you have manual hubs, just make sure they're unlocked.]
Also, check U and CV joints for play. Grab each end of each shaft and try to wiggle it up/down and left/right. If the joints move at all in any direction, they are worn and must be replaced. Worn joints also create slack in the driveline which could cause the second 'Clunk'
Just my $.02, Hope it helps!
Peace,
Matt {peace}
Is this the normal clunk when you shift an auto into gear?
The second 'clunk' is the same as the first or slightly different?
The reason I ask is I have a manual and it 'bucks' a little when reversing. I have concluded that the chain in the TC is stretched (slack between front and rear driveshafts confirmed this - See below for test.) IMO, the first clunk is the normal "Initial load" clunk.
When you shift into reverse, the trans starts turning backwards, taking up the slack in the top of the chain till it snaps tight against the o/p shaft. "Clunk!"
To test TC Chain (This is just like a timing chain slack test): With the wheels chocked, Shift TC into 4Hi and Trans into N, hold rear shaft and try to turn front shaft. If it turns more than a degree or two, the chain is stretched. [If you have CAD system, shift with engine off so the front axle doesn't lock, If you have manual hubs, just make sure they're unlocked.]
Also, check U and CV joints for play. Grab each end of each shaft and try to wiggle it up/down and left/right. If the joints move at all in any direction, they are worn and must be replaced. Worn joints also create slack in the driveline which could cause the second 'Clunk'
Just my $.02, Hope it helps!
Peace,
Matt {peace}
I hate my clunk! Mine happens from R to D! I have a divorced T208 in my '86 RC and I hate to ever have to use R due to this clunk. When the dealership put this newer or other t case in they put new u joints in. I was told there is a good chance it is my tranny! O S**T ANOTHER TWO GRAND DEEP IN MY A$%!
Also when I am parked at any type of incline and I try to put her in R she makes it hard to shift. This drives me nuts and I feel as if I am going to brake my handle off of the tree!
Also when I am parked at any type of incline and I try to put her in R she makes it hard to shift. This drives me nuts and I feel as if I am going to brake my handle off of the tree!
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219 Posts
i spent $900 rebuilding my rearend and it still has a clunk. i also just spend about 200 on the t case AND IT STILL CLUNKS!! its never gonna go away
That damn clunk. SIGH... now knowing different things that could be wrong involving the clunk the wife now tells me she wants me to get rid of her! She says between the 35 gal tank and the reparis needed that its too much.
I was talking to another Mopar dude and he told me that it would have something to do with the shifter its self.
That slack you are talking about and when you put it in R the chain tightens and you hear a clunk... is this something that needs to be repaired and or is this something that is going to snap? Is this also the same chain you are talking about that is in the T Case?
I was talking to another Mopar dude and he told me that it would have something to do with the shifter its self.
That slack you are talking about and when you put it in R the chain tightens and you hear a clunk... is this something that needs to be repaired and or is this something that is going to snap? Is this also the same chain you are talking about that is in the T Case?
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198 Posts
My dad has an 89 dodge 4wd 150 and has had it since new. It has always clunked. He has used it to plow snow since the day he bought it. It hasnt broken a single thing in the drivetrain and he is rough as hell on it and it doesnt see much maintanance at all, shes about to roll over 180,000 miles.....the clunk is there to stay and its not a reason for major concern, considering he does part throttle rev to forward shifts in plowing....it will be just fine. dont get rid of her because of the "dodge clunk"
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2,906 Posts
the chain in the transfer case drives the front driveshaft,if stretched it will affect 4wd only,part of this may be related to worn/loose trans or motor mounts.as far as the crush sleeve compressing more over time,i would have to disagree,but wear in the pinion bearings will certainly happen after a lot of miles.when i overhauled my diff,i set the backlash a little tighter than oem spec,about .005 instead of .006 to .008.seems to be working fine for me,but in some cases it will howl if too tight. another thing is the wear in the side and spider gears in the diff,quite common in an open diff,especially wear on the big cross pin.
first i would open hood and watch air cleaner movement while shifting fron D to R and back,giving it a little throttle in both directions,see if clunk is related to engine moving.
second i would use a smal bottle jack to check the movement at the t-case mount.
third i would pull diff cover with driveshaft disconnected to see if i could find any excessive wear.
first i would open hood and watch air cleaner movement while shifting fron D to R and back,giving it a little throttle in both directions,see if clunk is related to engine moving.
second i would use a smal bottle jack to check the movement at the t-case mount.
third i would pull diff cover with driveshaft disconnected to see if i could find any excessive wear.
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19,789 Posts
I don't know why, but I keep forgetting about this. Last time I was into my diff (installing a Lock-Right) I noticed that there was a lot of play between the spiders and cross pin. This is definitely where the bulk of my extra play was coming from.offroader_dodge said:
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