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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just had my block rebuilt. The manual shows the rotor pointing towards the front passenger side of the engine when at TDC. It also shows the position of the cap by illustrating the clips. I didn't take the plug wires off the cap when I tore it down. They are in the correct order with number one cap wire being in the position according to the iilustration.

When I line up the balancer to TDC and check where the rotor points, it's about 30 to 40 degrees off. I suppose I could rewire the cap so it works, but I would like to do it right.
I'm ready to drop it in, but something tells me I should wait.
I really don't want to bring it back to the shop, but I will if I have to.

does the whole engine need to be torn down to realign the slot where the shaft installs?

thanks again in advance...
 

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NO !!! just rewire the cap. That is the right way to do it.

The only other way, would be to pull the cam, pull the distributor drive gear, and re-insert it to make it line up with the cap in the pic. WHat's easier, rewiring the cap, or removing the cam I drive gear ?? Which means the intake has to come off too.

To heck with the pic....the engine is built, make the wires match the cap.
 

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the DIST drive gear[oil pump shaft ] comes right out without pulling the cam / just use a large screw driver and turn it backwards / the gear/shaft will rotate upwards and then you can reposition it where you want
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks bogger,
so I since I installed my fuel pump before the I installed the distributor, it put pressure on the eccentric causing the distributor shaft slot to bund in one place. Am I correct?
 

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jto, the large screwdriver turning the dist drive gear in reverse direction may work. another tip for doing this is by using a good locking scissors clamp to grasp the drive shaft and lift up at the same time as turning backwards always worked for me on bb eng. position where yu need it to be. remember when drive gear/cam gear seat they will rotate, so allow for the rotation -- should be good to go. good luck. --sheriff--
 

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I have used a metal coat hanger bent to get under the gear of the intermediate shaft. A long handled blade screwdriver is the way I have used for years now on small and big blocks.
 

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hmmm you guys manage it alot easier than i ever did. the only 2 ways i have EVER been able to get it out was to either pull manifold, or drop oil pan and press it up from there


eric
 

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So, let me get this straight. Instead of sweating, cussing, bleeding, and busting knuckles, I could have just re-wired my cap placing my #1 wire to the position where the rotor points to @ TDC then following with the firing order around. With a raised vehicle this is a major pain I the butt to do.

Streak-O-Lean
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I changed my distributor slot the way BOGGER35 explained and it worked great. A big screwdirver was all I needed. Everything is in specs with the shop manual now.
I was incorrect about the fuel pump being installed that I posted previously.
My engine IS out of the truck though, but I could have done it if it was installed.
I''ll post more after I get it in and running.
 

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Streak-O-Lean said:
So, let me get this straight. Instead of sweating, cussing, bleeding, and busting knuckles, I could have just re-wired my cap placing my #1 wire to the position where the rotor points to @ TDC then following with the firing order around. With a raised vehicle this is a major pain I the butt to do.

Streak-O-Lean
yep

eric
 

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Streak-O-Lean said:
So, let me get this straight. Instead of sweating, cussing, bleeding, and busting knuckles, I could have just re-wired my cap placing my #1 wire to the position where the rotor points to @ TDC then following with the firing order around. With a raised vehicle this is a major pain I the butt to do.

Streak-O-Lean
Try it on a lifted truck, with a dropped tcase....

BOGGERS method worked for me this time too, but I had to rotate the engine while I turned the gear out.
 
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