Dodge RamCharger Central banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,879 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1987 D150, 2WD

Can the calipers of the factory front disc brakes be adjusted?

My trucks front brakes have dragged as long as I have owned it. Rotor new or resurfaces, pads new or old doesn't matter. Always has a slight drag.

"Slight" drag is with the wheel off the ground, I can easily spin the tire by hand. But if you try to spin the tire, it will stop within 1/2 to 1 revolution, depending how hard you spin it.

I do not get excessive brake dust on my rims, and I do not eat brake pads, but I would like the front wheels to actually free-wheel when the brakes are not applied. I know after a road-trip the front rims are quite warm to the touch, and the dragging is certainly hurting mpg as well as performance. Is there a way to back off the calipers, or is this just another snafu?

-SM
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
SNAFU is correct. Chrysler made a big deal out of the brake calipers on the LH cars having an integral spring that retracts the caliper piston to save 0.25 MPG or something like that. I was always told that disk brakes rub slightly to keep the water off.

Are your slides clean and lubed? If not do it. Old rubber brakeline can "hold" pressure on the calipers as well because they are usually swelled and ragged on the inside. You said you wern't using pads up or pulling, but if you haven't ever changed them I would.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,056 Posts
I too think it sounds more like wheel bearings, and if you find you need to replace any.. Be sure they're Timpken, not Tiawan..
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
7,995 Posts
On the disk brake setups its up to the seal that rides on the caliper piston to help retract the pad/s. As the piston moves toward the pads it puts a small stress on the flat sided o-ring that seals it inside the caliper, this kinda stretches the oring and when you release your brakes the tension from the oring is supposed to retract the caliper a rats hair. If the oring or the sliding areas are funky, this theory doesnt work and the pad drags on the rotor for a bit. As mentioned before all the sliding ares af the caliper need to be clean and I polish with crocus cloth so they shine. Then the smallest amout of disk brake grease/dielectric grease applied to all sliding contact surfaces and the pad mounting hardware. I also replace my caliper mounting hardware and rebuild my own calipers.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,879 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the ideas everyone. Wheel bearings are only 2 years old, with about 5000 miles on them. Brake lines are probably factory, as are the calipers. :eek: Other than the dragging, I have had no problems with the brakes on this truck. *knocks on wood* Looks like it is time for caliper rebuilds and an upgrade to braided stainless brake lines ;D

-SM
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,757 Posts
Even if the bearings are recent, they may not have been adjusted properly or some crud could have gotten into them.
Pull the caliper off and see if the drag still exists, that'll tell you if it is in the calipers or the bearings. That may save you rebuilding the peices that aren't causing the problem.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,879 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Donk said:
Even if the bearings are recent, they may not have been adjusted properly or some crud could have gotten into them.
Pull the caliper off and see if the drag still exists, that'll tell you if it is in the calipers or the bearings. That may save you rebuilding the peices that aren't causing the problem.
It is definitely the calipers. I had one off the other night and the wheel will continue spinning for 20+ revolutions. When it comes back from the body shop, it will get new brake lines on all four corners. The brake pads are starting to get thin too, so it looks like it is time for new pads and resurfaced rotors up front....maybe even a rear disc conversion ;D

-SM
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,515 Posts
you might as well give up now,there's something called a residual valve built into the front side of your master cylinder,as the rotors turn there's always gonna be a tiny amount of runout,this valve keeps the pads against the rotors as it would cause the pads to walk away from the rotors without it.the result would be excessive pedal travel to displace all that fluid when you needed to stop.not a good thing for reaction time when needed......
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top