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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, well i just bought a new (to me) 87 power ram w150 and the guy i bought it from just replaced the battery, alternator, a/c compressor, and voltage regulator, it drove fine the first day i got it, then yesterday when i was driving i noticed when i put the truck in gear it felt like it was going to stall...so i put it back in N and it idled fine...to i throw it in reverse then it feels like its going to stall again but i tried to reverse and it died...then wouldnt start back up for a second then fired up put it in drive and it drove home fine but felt like it was going to stall at lights...has this happened to any of you? 
 

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Or a dirty battery case. Dirt+grease+battery acid residue=excellent path for short circuit between posts.

Don't believe me? Take a dirty battery, place a meter lead on a post and the other on various parts of the case and be surprised to find voltage readings.
 

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s ǝoɾ said:
Or a dirty battery case. Dirt+grease+battery acid residue=excellent path for short circuit between posts.

Don't believe me? Take a dirty battery, place a meter lead on a post and the other on various parts of the case and be surprised to find voltage readings.
you know i never thought anything about that before. making me wonder now if i should go out and wipe the tops of all my batteries down with some degreaser or baking soda and water because a couple of them are pretty nasty and those are the ones that seem to go dead the fastest thanks for teaching me something else joe s.
 

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esiegel91 said:
ya but if i leave the battery disconnected for like 20 minutes and come back out to the truck the battery is dead..where should i start looking
Your battery is probably shot... but beyond that you may also have a vaccum leak that is causing your rpm's to drop too low at idle in gear. this would cause less output from the alternator and further hurt the situation. this is what is happening to my truck right now. i have a vaccum leak from my break booster, so when i hit the brakes and put it in gear, it almost dies, and in gear at stop lights it is chugging trying to stay running. i would replace the battery, then maybe look into tracing a vaccum leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ok sorry guys i didnt mean to write when i leave it for 20 minutes when its disconnected, if i were to leave and come back with it connected it would be dead...i have been just disconnecting the battery...i took the truck to autozone to have my alternator tested while it was running and his little dohickey said that my alternator was bad but that doesnt make sense to me, and i dont wanna buy a new one just in case it isnt...i mean the truck runs well when its riding down the road its just at stop lights or after its been idleing a while...can anyone enlighten me...
 

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Had same problem with 1989 R/C dying, found out that vacuum dashpot leading to egr valve was bad and egr valve not working. Removed dashpot and put t-fittings in for a temp fix, vehicle runs fine now.
Rockauto sells whole egr setup online for about $39.00 plus shipping if you find this to be the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ok so, update.  Today i put a meter on the battery and pulled fuses, could not find anything thats drawing power from the battery.. however. i did find a pretty nasty vaccuum leak...the meter says it has a draw of .013...  is this normal??? my friend said it maybe cause of the pcm or something but any insight would be awesome...on a positive note i bought a new k&n air filter, changed the oil, stopped the vaccuum leak, and washed her...so im pretty happy bout all that..
 

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if your alt has no output you are just running off your battery and
with lights and blower soon your ignition system doesent have enough
power to opperate properly
 

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Shorted diode in alternator will cause battery to go dead.  Take alternator off truck and have it tested on machine, you'll know for sure.  Diode can go out anytime, new or old.

If battery goes dead when connected but not when disconnected, your have a draw, and big time if dead in 20 minutes, you just haven't found it yet. 

General rule I always go by when electrical problems - first, rule out the battery by swapping in known good fully charged battery from another vehicle without problems - cost $.00.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ok so it was the alternator, so went and bought a new one, now everything SEEMS fine, but the guy i just bought the truck from has a ford voltage regulator running to the alternator and i cannot figure out where the wires go...i think i hooked them up right, but how can i be sure without a meter??
 
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