[Barend]

Barend, a couple of suggestions.... If you're putting in a 3200 gov spring and adding a fuel pin later, you may want to consider the M&H dynamic timing device. What does it do? The one big advantage that the VE has, is dynamic timing. Meaning, the pump has the ability to advance and retard fuel delivery, based on RPM, like a distributor has the ability to advance and retard spark, based on RPM. This allows strong bottom end torque and higher rpm power. Statically timed pumps like the P-pump can do one or the other, but not both. The timing in the VE is controlled by a small piston which travels in a set bore length. The dynamic timing device is a small spacer which lengthens the bore and allows the piston to travel a greater distance and therefore allow for more timing advance when it's needed. The only other option, which is free, is to manually adjust the timing, by turning the pump against the head. This advances the timing but you also lose some bottom end torque and it can make the engine a bit harder to start (Most noticeable on colder days) The "Kit" used to be sold on M&H, but it looks like the site is now gone. But I did find these "kits" still available on Ebay;

First Gen Dodge Cummins Turbo Diesel KSB Timing Spacer Kit M&H Style 93 92 91 90 | eBay

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My second suggestion is, install a pyro meter. In my opinion, a pyro meter is probably the most important gauge to have on a diesel powered truck. This is because, one of the most destructive forms of heat in a diesel is high exhaust gas temps. High EGTs (from 1600*F and up) can melt pistons, destroy turbos and plain wreck an engine. What causes high EGTs? Unlike gas burners, which create heat when running lean, diesels produce heat when running rich. A diesel can run rich, for a number of reasons, and there are a number of ways to address EGTs, but before you address a problem, a pyro will inform you (in advance) that there is a problem.

Ed

Thanks for the suggestions. I will definitely be installing a pyrometer. And my last cummins i had a shop bump the timing with all their fancy gauges and it was awesome. Still always started first turn. Probably going that route again. I got the pump back already from being gone through and resealed.

 

[Barend]

Heres my pump, all clean and resealed. The guy was supposed to put the 3200 rom spring in there but he didnt. So now i got to pull it open again. Should i paint it aluminum or will it stay this nice for a long time? I bet paint chips off pretty easy on that smooth aluminum.

 

[Mad Max]

Looks good - I wouldn't paint it - looks nice 'au-naturel'. Sucks you have to pull it apart to swap in the 366 spring but oh well. Be sure to mark the index line when you pull the level off the shaft. I have a thread on the spring swap that might help - VE44 '366' spring installation - 1st gen

- Sam

 

[u2slow]

I would paint it. I stripped my rocker covers to bare metal a few years ago and now the surface is rather crusty.

 

[Canadian country boy]

Paint will stick well if the surface area is super clean with zero oils on it. You could even clear coat it but using paint and primer is best. You could leave it natural but it will dull down in time and maybe even turn white a bit. You could wash the engine all the time, that will help keep it clean looking. Lol

 

[Canadian country boy]

The best aluminum paint I have ever seen and used is aluma-blast from Eastwood! It used to be a Goodson product but now Eastwood owns it. It looks identical to aluminum and sticks like hell. Awesome stuff! 👍

 

[u2slow]

Dunno if it just a rumor, but have heard vinegar works as a basic etch/prep on aluminum before coating it.

 

[Canadian country boy]

I'm not sure. Engine degreaser and a power wash will work fine.

 

[Canadian country boy]

I shot my block in aluminum paint to match my heads, intake and water pump and it turned out awesome. Everyone thought that i had an aluminum block.

 

[Barend]

Lol. I could see paint flaking off but i could also see aluminum turning white. I have the high temp vht stuff in all different colors including aluminum color.
But the hardest part is finding a 3200 gov spring. Theyre way overpriced on ebay and take a month to ship ontop of that. Theres a set on amazon with some cheesy chinese xing xing ping fuel pin and 3200 gov spring set for 70 bucks next day delivery. That would be just as expensive as a loose spring on ebay with a month shipping. But still, 70 bucks for a 2 dollar spring goes against my values. Lol. I cant believe it would be this hard to find the most common first gen mod. Been roaming the internet all night to a point where i can hardly look out my eyes anymore and still dont have anything.

 

[u2slow]

Try Pure Diesel Power or Dieseltuff for a gov spring.

I find the stock fuel pin is enough with any injectors bigger that stock IC ones.

 

[Barend]

Try Pure Diesel Power or Dieseltuff for a gov spring.

I find the stock fuel pin is enough with any injectors bigger that stock IC ones.

Ya if i would get the amazon kit id just throw the chinese fuel pin out and use the spring only. If thats what you mean. Ill check them out.

 

[Barend]

Anyone have tips or tricks to remove these king pin cover things? Been beating if for a long time deformed the whole cap and it still barely moves sideways let alone up and i hit my hand instead of the cap really really hard. Skin off and it hurt like a b*tch for a couple days. Lol

 

[SuperBurban]

Have you tried a pickle fork? Or a couple of chisels? It is just a spring under there, should be easy.

d60faaa.png

• SuperBurban
• Jun 26, 2021

Dana 60 hub

 

[Barend]

Have you tried a pickle fork? Or a couple of chisels? It is just a spring under there, should be easy.

d60faaa.png

• SuperBurban
• Jun 26, 2021

Dana 60 hub

The top one with the spring cam out easy. But i mean the bottom one

 

[u2slow]

Probably rusted into the bearing. Nothing magical holding it in.

 

[Barend]

Well, for the next guy doind this project, the only way to get em off is to pound em on one corner to turn it enough so that you can hit the corner sticking out from underneath with a big hammer. Be prepared for a good workout. After it going a little bit i decided to hammer my brandnew balljoint fork in between. Bent it. So ya, just a hammer and a bunch energy and motivation needed. I cant or dont want to imagine doing this under a truck. Lol

 

[Barend]

Anyone know how to check for wear on the kingpin itself? Like how to know i need new ones. Do marks and scratches make it junk? Not really sure how picky those things get.

 

[Barend]

Good thing i took them apart by the way. This is what the bearing looks like. I cant see how most people do swaps lime this with what they got without checking and restoring everything while theyre there. So easy to do it now. Imagine finally having this project all done and then having a death wobble and who knows what else to deal with when you want to drive it. Lol. I get everyones different but i wouldnt be able to sleep without knowing its all done right and looked after. And there will probably still be things i missed. We'll find out on the maiden voyage

 

[Barend]

Some parts are all ready for their new home