[Barend]

Well like I said I've driven both - a 3.07 Cummins RC with no OD and a 3.54 D250 with OD - the RC was a daily driver - not a tow rig and the 3.54 truck was for sure, so I needed a bit better 'take-off' gear (3.54) and then OD to keep the rpm's in check on the highway, and with a good converter and a trio of OE coolers I never had a problem with heat - not ever, and that was with 300 hp 630 tq on tap. Loved that truck...

Right. And when i say im looking for a max speed of 80 - 90 miles, i dont mean with that that that will be my cruising speed. Cruising speed will be 65 70 on the highway, but i just want to be able to hit the pedal and go faster for a sec to pass a car thats going 65 infront of me when im doing 72, know what im saying? Lol. Stock, alot of these trucks had a max speed of 70 with the 727s. I have no use for that lol.
It wont be a tow rig, just my personal not even daily driver and once a year a good trip cross country or something with a camper in the box and some weekend roadtripping here and there.

 

[Barend]

Anybody know of a suregrip system forsale for the dana 70U axle? Couldnt find any. Any of you guys have experience with a welded diff?

 

[Barend]

Oh and another thing i was wondering, when taking my front axle apart for the u joints, there was a kink thing near the transfer case with a little ball and that. So i ordered a new set on rockauto, which came with 2 springs and some other parts which im sure were never in there when i took it apart. And i have no idea how to replace that ball. Is there a writeup about that somewhere? Heres a pic of my new kit

 

[Barend]

Shes just patiently waiting there for that heart transplant lol

 

[u2slow]

Anybody know of a suregrip system forsale for the dana 70U axle? Couldnt find any. Any of you guys have experience with a welded diff?

The most common factory device is Dana's Powr-lok. There are 32 and 35 spline axles. The 32-spline powr-lok is much easier to find. "Sure-grip" is dodge language, so might be why the search is difficult.

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media.spicerparts.com

I had a 35spline 70u open diff, so I installed a Lockright instead. I prefer that with a manual trans. I don't care for them with the auto trans; acts like spool/welded.

 

[u2slow]

Oh and another thing i was wondering, when taking my front axle apart for the u joints, there was a kink thing near the transfer case with a little ball and that. So i ordered a new set on rockauto, which came with 2 springs and some other parts which im sure were never in there when i took it apart. And i have no idea how to replace that ball. Is there a writeup about that somewhere? Heres a pic of my new kit View attachment 635926

That kit comes with more pieces than you need because there's a few variations.

If its the saginaw type (inside clip joints) the ball is not changed; it is part of the end yoke.

On the spicer style, the ball part sits in the flange yoke and is replaced. It sound better, but it's not... the pin portion that plugs into the ball ends up being the weak/worn item.

 

[Barend]

That kit comes with more pieces than you need because there's a few variations.

If its the saginaw type (inside clip joints) the ball is not changed; it is part of the end yoke.

On the spicer style, the ball part sits in the flange yoke and is replaced. It sound better, but it's not... the pin portion that plugs into the ball ends up being the weak/worn item.

Sounds like i have the saginaw style? Which of the 2 styles comes without the springs? Only thing i remember taking out is maybe a washer and those 3 funny pieces. No springs or seal. The old ball looks great, probably dont even need new but im buying every driveline and suspension part new while im there. Do it right once haha

 

[u2slow]

They all use a spring. I don't have one in pieces right now for a show and tell, and I can't remember. The ball in the saginaw seems to last pretty good. I don't think it is serviceable.

The irony is it takes the experience of doing things several times in order to be able to reliably 'do it once'.

 

[Barend]

They all use a spring. I don't have one in pieces right now for a show and tell, and I can't remember. The ball in the saginaw seems to last pretty good. I don't think it is serviceable.

The irony is it takes the experience of doing things several times in order to be able to reliably 'do it once'.

Haha ur right for sure. Usually the maiden voyage on a restored vehicle doesnt go without any problems. But ive been down the suspension and driveline hole a bunch of times on different vehicles for regular maintance and such so im not totally new. But fingers crossed for sure. And ya that ball thing has gotten me stuck. Barely any info on it online.

 

[u2slow]

This thread contains a video that I think is right...

Loading…

www.steelsoldiers.com

Torque king's instructions indicate the ball is pressed on.

QU40817 Hardened Steel Centering Ball Only for Saginaw CV Driveshafts

Buy Now QU40817 Hardened Steel Centering Ball for 1975 to 2002 Saginaw Double Cardan Constant Velocity 4x4 front driveshafts used by Chevy, Dodge, Ford, and GMC.

torqueking.com

 

[RXT]

....Plus, this truck is gonna be computer free and i hate overdrive on a switch. Had it with my white cummins after od quit. Hated it.

I really wasn't a fan of the idea either but for my build, the 727 had to go. My Dakota has 41 inch tall tires and 4.56 gears so with the 727, if I wanted to do 70 mph, the rpms would be over 2700 rpm. Thats too far outside operating range. But! With my 47RE which has OD, rpm at 70 should be 1780-1800 rpms, in OD, which happens to be optimal.

To match it with a 727 and taller gear, I'd have to go taller than a 3.55 (With a 3.55 ratio, -and 41s, rpms at 70 would be 2120 rpms) Further, the taller axle ratio from a dead stop would be like starting in third gear with an NP435 manual.

The 47RE allows me to run a lower ratio axle gear which makes better use of first gear and crawl ability. OD gives me cruise at highway speeds. I picked 70 mph because that's the limit statewide in Florida.

There are several options for the switch. I'm planning to install a "cancel" switch on the brakes. Remembering to turn them on is easy. It's the remembering to shut them off part that is difficult. The TC should not be in lock up when you come to a stop.

And in case you didn't already know, my 47RE has been decomputerized too.

Ed

 

[RXT]

Im wondering if i could modify the intake pipe, cut it off where its thicker still and weld a 2.5 inch pipe on so that i could use a 2.5 hose and have more airflow, cuz the 2 inch cant breathe as good i assume.

This;

or something like this;

Ed

 

[Barend]

This thread contains a video that I think is right...

Loading…

www.steelsoldiers.com

Torque king's instructions indicate the ball is pressed on.

QU40817 Hardened Steel Centering Ball Only for Saginaw CV Driveshafts

Buy Now QU40817 Hardened Steel Centering Ball for 1975 to 2002 Saginaw Double Cardan Constant Velocity 4x4 front driveshafts used by Chevy, Dodge, Ford, and GMC.

torqueking.com

Thanks so much, you guys are worth your weight in gold.
One of the comments under that video is something like " i always get mine done at the driveline shop, never seem to get those things right." I cant see what you could not do right buy putting it together. Wonder why he said that

 

[Barend]

This;

View attachment 635971

or something like this;

View attachment 635972

Ed

Even tho that too looks cool, i love the looks of the stock pipe and im definitely keeping that. But that pipe suddenly narrows down to 2 inches at the end, wim wondering if i should cut that off and weld a 2.5 pipe to it higher up so ot looks the same but with better flow

 

[Barend]

Getting my injection pump resealed is 500 canadian plus the seal kit. Is there a good writeup on a reseal and is it pretty doable for a first timer? I could see it taking time, but heck id rather spend that 500 on some fun upgrade. Is there a way to set the pump to tdc when its off the engine? Took the pump off without the engine being at tdc and its been rotated around by now

 

[Mad Max]

Thanks so much, you guys are worth your weight in gold.
One of the comments under that video is something like " i always get mine done at the driveline shop, never seem to get those things right." I cant see what you could not do right buy putting it together. Wonder why he said that

assembling driveshafts is one thing - getting them balanced correctly is another. I've watched a proper balance job and it's pretty impressive to watch...and nothing at all I could fathom of doing myself.

 

[u2slow]

Even tho that too looks cool, i love the looks of the stock pipe and im definitely keeping that. But that pipe suddenly narrows down to 2 inches at the end, wim wondering if i should cut that off and weld a 2.5 pipe to it higher up so ot looks the same but with better flow

Don't worry, it's small at the other end too.

 

[RXT]

Even tho that too looks cool, i love the looks of the stock pipe and im definitely keeping that. But that pipe suddenly narrows down to 2 inches at the end, wim wondering if i should cut that off and weld a 2.5 pipe to it higher up so ot looks the same but with better flow

I don't think you'll be able to improve the flow of the factory crossover pipe. That piece was designed to flow just enough air for a low boost 160hp engine. Yes, you can cut the pipe and weld in a larger pipe but that's not going to improve the flow. In fact I would suspect that it could result in the opposite effect. The inside dimensions of the factory pipe is small thru the entire length, so adding a larger section won't fix the rest of it. Since you'll be welding what I assume will be a thin wall piece of tubing to a thick cast piece of pipe, there's going to be a prominent "step" that's going to disturb the smooth flow of air going into the engine. It would be the equivalent of installing a high flow intake to a restricted head, and the ports don't match.

I can understand that you want to keep the factory look but understand that you'll be limiting the performance of the engine.

Ed

 

[Barend]

I don't think you'll be able to improve the flow of the factory crossover pipe. That piece was designed to flow just enough air for a low boost 160hp engine. Yes, you can cut the pipe and weld in a larger pipe but that's not going to improve the flow. In fact I would suspect that it could result in the opposite effect. The inside dimensions of the factory pipe is small thru the entire length, so adding a larger section won't fix the rest of it. Since you'll be welding what I assume will be a thin wall piece of tubing to a thick cast piece of pipe, there's going to be a prominent "step" that's going to disturb the smooth flow of air going into the engine. It would be the equivalent of installing a high flow intake to a restricted head, and the ports don't match.

I can understand that you want to keep the factory look but understand that you'll be limiting the performance of the engine.

Ed

Gotcha. Ill leave it alone then. Not looking for a crazy performance engine and theres plenty of 300 350 hp motors with still the factory pipe

 

[RXT]

Gotcha. Ill leave it alone then. Not looking for a crazy performance engine and theres plenty of 300 350 hp motors with still the factory pipe

Is that what you're going for? 300-350HP?? The crossover pipe definitely won't cut that. It's a known bottleneck. For that output, you may want to revisit the intercooler idea you had a few posts back.

Ed