[Barend]

I know, another one. Im sorry. But the stickies did not really include my application and the one that got close kinda got really super duper long, woyld take a week to read with my schedule.
Anyways, last week i purchased an all original 2nd owner 50k mile 1975 d200 adventurer camper special. Single cab long box auto 2 wheel drive. 360 with 727. No rust whatsoever (really rare for trucks this age in Canada)
Anyways, the 360 just isnt gonna buy it. Needs a cummins. Nice project for this winter. So to make clear, everthing is staying stick but the driveline. Original grille, bb hood, dash, interior, etc. It has to be as if the truck came factory with a cummins. Questions i have is what parts do i need exactly. Im figuring engine, trans, fuel tank and pump, fuel lines, tranny cooler with lines, rad and an engine harness. I have a big 3 core 440 truck rad which will be bolt in. Is that gonna cool it? Or do i need a cummins rad. Also, is there room for an intercooler behind that grille? Would love an IC but if thats not gonna work ill have to got with a pre 91.5. Want the factory gauges to work. Any advice, tips or tricks greatly appreciated. Also, knowing myself the engine will be torn apart to probably the short block and resealed, improved, and repainted. Thanks again

 

[Barend]

 

[Barend]

 

[Barend]

Here the ol girl is at mopar fest, last saturday. What a beautiful show. Best show ive been to in my life! Mopar or absolutely No Car!

 

[mttaff]

First things first, that is a gorgeous truck! Rare in that condition no matter where you're from.
What will you be using the truck for and what are your performance expectations?
I cummins swapped my crewcab with expectations of daily driver dependability, smoke the tires if I want to, not roll coal while driving normal, and probably never towing heavy. I went non intercooled because I didn't need it for what I wanted to do with it. Made it easy to fit with any grill. If you're towing a lot you'll likely want to go ic.
Eric

 

[Barend]

First things first, that is a gorgeous truck! Rare in that condition no matter where you're from.
What will you be using the truck for and what are your performance expectations?
I cummins swapped my crewcab with expectations of daily driver dependability, smoke the tires if I want to, not roll coal while driving normal, and probably never towing heavy. I went non intercooled because I didn't need it for what I wanted to do with it. Made it easy to fit with any grill. If you're towing a lot you'll likely want to go ic.
Eric

Thanks Eric.
It really sounds like i have the same expectations as you do. Only thing is, i will go on big road trip of say one or 2 weeks once a year with most likely a camper in the box. This is not gonna be a towing rig but of course it should tow fine when i want to, you know, those fishing trips hours up north with a boat and such. But this aint a cross country towing rig. Im not too picky on IC or non IC, but for some reason its easier to get an IC one and of course an intercooler can never hurt, so if it fits with minor mods, why not go that route.

 

[Barend]

And yes i had those 8 bolt turbine wheels laying around, and man do they look alot better than what was on it

 

[u2slow]

The rad support and rad are unique to the Cummins trucks - intercooled or not. The engine is long. If you want to run a mechanical fan, you'll have to modify the support to put the rad right up tight against it.

 

[Barend]

Anyone have details and.pics of the modifying? Thanks

 

[Mad Max]

First - nice truck! Second - great project, and completely doable . Third, what's yer name?

Okay. Yah there are several threads about diesel swaps, but I think you'll find taking the time to thoroughly read those threads and taking lots of notes will very likely provide all the tech you'll need, including things to be aware of specifically important to you, things to avoid, etc. Grab a couple brews and take the time to fully capture what you're wanting to do.

That said, being a 3/4-ton 2wd truck your swap will be much less 'involved' than most. Typically, most swaps involve a complete donor truck and that is just to have most of the parts up front and not have to go find all the pieces. But, being a 3/4-ton truck I think you already have plenty of 'frame', and if you already have a D70 rear axle then you really just need the 6BT engine and 2wd manual transmission. That said, be sure to have the original D70 inspected and/or even re-set to ensure the ring and pinion are 'perfect' - maybe even go so far as to have a brand new quality set installed, and drop in a limited slip while it's open.

I'm not 100% certain which motor mounts you'd use, but I think a 6BT will 'bolt up' to your existing 2wd gasser engine crossmember, but the transmission likely will not and you'll have to drill the holes and such to install the crossmember with the diesel transmission.

Your big core gasser radiator will likely be plenty for your intended use, and like has been mentioned you'll just need to make sure everything clears (fan, fan clutch, etc).

I would recommend an intercooled engine/trans even if you don't use the OE intercooler. You can go 'up and over' the valve covers with the intake, or, you could do some voodoo and use an aftermarket aluminum radiator and the OE intercooler and electric fans, or, if this is not going off-road and will be a nice highway cruiser, you could run the OE radiator and have a custom shop fabricate or buy an intercooler that mounts wherever it can fit (possibly under the radiator) and modify the intake piping to match.

Dash. For sure you will need the two standard 'diesel' gauges - pyrometer (especially important if you are considering a non-intercooled chassis) and boost, and those can go 'anywhere' - just so long as you can keep an eye on them when driving. I'm near certain the G360 or NV4500s or NV5600s can use a mechanical speedometer output, which you will need to drive your speedo.

Your factory 70's dash will interface with the 6BT the same as any gasser engine - water temp, oil pressure, volts, etc - all same-same just in the 'Cummins' ports vs the gasser ports.

Suspension. IMPO, being a 3/4-ton already...I actually don't think you'll have to do 'anything', at least I wouldn't do anything to anything until the truck is rolling with all the weight in the bed (camper, gear, etc). I predict you will actually have an outstanding ride. That said, if you want a better ride in back, I'd do the mods to relocate your front/rear leaf spring mounts and install a set of 'low-lift' 63" leaf springs (i.e. Pro Comp 13211), and then if necessary mount a set of air bags to control the weight. The ride will be much less harsh.

Performance. Turbo, exhaust, fuel. If I were building your truck I'd for sure run a 'better' turbo - like a new HX-35 with...ooohhhh...say a 14cm wastegated collar set at about 35 psi. You'll also definitely want...no, need...a 4" exhaust and downpipe. Assuming you don't want your truck to make you deaf, I'd recommend installing a 4" baffled and chambered muffler, and while I haven't yet 'heard' it I just installed pn# 7081Q from Heartthrob Exhaust - near the bottom of the page - Heartthrob Exhaust - Diesel Kits . While the 4" mufflers from Dynomax and Magnaflow look cool they are not good at reducing sound and still allow lots of 'drone' in the cab.

If you don't have a D70 out back - if it's a D60 (or even if it is a D70), I'd highly recommend replacing it with a newer 01-10 GM 14b full-float rear axle from any 2500 truck of the era, which will include factory disc brakes and incorporated e-brake - all off-the shelf, and bulletproof (make sure it isn't the newer (2011-up?) 8-lug with the just-slightly-bigger metric bolt pattern).

Interior. You will want every available application of sound insulation available, including a dash/firewall mat, hood liner, more firewall insulation, inner fender liners, and lastly, more hood and firewall insulation. 1st Gen Cummins' make a LOT of rattlerattlerattle...which is just the nature of the beast - they're awesome beasts but they are noisy beasts. I am actually working on making my own oil pan and valve cover covers/blankets, just to contain the maximum amount of 'rattle' that I can.

Next, please do check out my 'De-computerize your Dodge' thread as there is a lot of applicable info considering your plans. You don't have any computers in your 75, and you don't need any for your 6BT or trans to 'run', which is excellent. Assuming you use a 1st Gen intercooled engine you'll want to do all the 'easy' mods, especially the 366 spring. You can get plenty of power with the OE injectors, but bump up the fuel a bit with the full-fuel screw and then adjust the other things to clean up the smoke. I'd delete the OE WIF sensor with the conversion nipple and run the upgraded fuel filter. Definitely, definitely kill the KDP.

If you're looking for hardware (downpipe, turbo's etc) I'd recommend contacting Mark Wilson at Dieseltuff.com (in Canada, eh). He's a friend of mine and a long-time diesel performance guru.

Okay, that should be pretty good to get you started. Post up your plans, questions, progress, and for sure, pics!

Cheers!

- Sam

 

[u2slow]

Anyone have details and.pics of the modifying? Thanks

I have pics that I can't find right now

The non-ic rad sits directly over the rad-support bolts.

The short fan hub on the 91-93 is the key to running the matching rad, support, and intercooler.

It is likely easier to modify the headlight locations on the diesel rad-support that to modify the old support.

Edit: I put alloy shafts in a D60 to run with a 5spd Cummins. They were the Yukon cut-to-length type and too cheap to pass over (like $55 each on Amazon at the time).

 

[RXT]

Very nice truck.

Questions i have is what parts do i need exactly.

Theres no exact answer. Cummins are the most popular diesels to swap and they offer so many options to make it possible. The engine alone can be used straight from the factory or all of their parts can be mixed and matched in so many different ways (of course depending on your budget)

There are numerous transmission options, not only Chrysler made transmissions, but you could adapt any Allison or any big rig trans using a SAE #2 bell housing

Possible donors include school buses, or other commercial vehicles outside of Chrysler.

I have a big 3 core 440 truck rad which will be bolt in.

The 6BT is a very long engine and uses a unique radiator wall which provides the clearance needed between the engine and radiator. You might be able to modify your existing wall but keep in mind that you'll be working with very little space and there might not be room for an intercooler and A/C condenser. Your 440 Radiator is physically large enough to cool a Cummins, but it might not have the right dimensions to fit

Also, is there room for an intercooler behind that grille?

Hard to say. I know it's usually a tight fit in the 93s but I don't know what space you'll have behind your 75 grill. There are alternatives. The early 1st gen engines didn't come with an intercooler. The power level was low enough that they could get by without one. Another option is to install a water to air intercooler. It's a more complex system that uses it's own radiator, but you can mount that small radiator somewhere else. Some 4BTs had a water to air intercooler which shared engine coolant. The system eliminated a dedicated IC pump and radiator, but used hotter coolant to cool the IC It works with smaller output engines, but no so much with higher HP engines.

Want the factory gauges to work. Any advice, tips or tricks greatly appreciated.

I'm not a fan of the factory gauges. My main reason for this is, factory gauges, especially older ones were never accurate to begin with. Some didn't even have numbers, the needle swept over the word "NORMAL" That made no sense to me because if the needle was over the letter "O" or the letter "A" you still couldn't tell exactly how hot or cool it was? I prefer actual numbers so I can tell if the engine is operating at 160 degrees or 180 degrees or whatever. So if I were to offer you advice on gauges, I'd recommend aftermarket gauges like Auto-Meter and if you want the appearance of factory, they offer many different styles, with many looking factory-like

Also, knowing myself the engine will be torn apart to probably the short block and resealed, improved, and repainted. Thanks again

As mentioned, you can mix and match almost anything. It's up to you how mild or wild you want to go.

Ed

 

[Barend]

First - nice truck! Second - great project, and completely doable . Third, what's yer name?

Okay. Yah there are several threads about diesel swaps, but I think you'll find taking the time to thoroughly read those threads and taking lots of notes will very likely provide all the tech you'll need, including things to be aware of specifically important to you, things to avoid, etc. Grab a couple brews and take the time to fully capture what you're wanting to do.

That said, being a 3/4-ton 2wd truck your swap will be much less 'involved' than most. Typically, most swaps involve a complete donor truck and that is just to have most of the parts up front and not have to go find all the pieces. But, being a 3/4-ton truck I think you already have plenty of 'frame', and if you already have a D70 rear axle then you really just need the 6BT engine and 2wd manual transmission. That said, be sure to have the original D70 inspected and/or even re-set to ensure the ring and pinion are 'perfect' - maybe even go so far as to have a brand new quality set installed, and drop in a limited slip while it's open.

I'm not 100% certain which motor mounts you'd use, but I think a 6BT will 'bolt up' to your existing 2wd gasser engine crossmember, but the transmission likely will not and you'll have to drill the holes and such to install the crossmember with the diesel transmission.

Your big core gasser radiator will likely be plenty for your intended use, and like has been mentioned you'll just need to make sure everything clears (fan, fan clutch, etc).

I would recommend an intercooled engine/trans even if you don't use the OE intercooler. You can go 'up and over' the valve covers with the intake, or, you could do some voodoo and use an aftermarket aluminum radiator and the OE intercooler and electric fans, or, if this is not going off-road and will be a nice highway cruiser, you could run the OE radiator and have a custom shop fabricate or buy an intercooler that mounts wherever it can fit (possibly under the radiator) and modify the intake piping to match.

Dash. For sure you will need the two standard 'diesel' gauges - pyrometer (especially important if you are considering a non-intercooled chassis) and boost, and those can go 'anywhere' - just so long as you can keep an eye on them when driving. I'm near certain the G360 or NV4500s or NV5600s can use a mechanical speedometer output, which you will need to drive your speedo.

Your factory 70's dash will interface with the 6BT the same as any gasser engine - water temp, oil pressure, volts, etc - all same-same just in the 'Cummins' ports vs the gasser ports.

Suspension. IMPO, being a 3/4-ton already...I actually don't think you'll have to do 'anything', at least I wouldn't do anything to anything until the truck is rolling with all the weight in the bed (camper, gear, etc). I predict you will actually have an outstanding ride. That said, if you want a better ride in back, I'd do the mods to relocate your front/rear leaf spring mounts and install a set of 'low-lift' 63" leaf springs (i.e. Pro Comp 13211), and then if necessary mount a set of air bags to control the weight. The ride will be much less harsh.

Performance. Turbo, exhaust, fuel. If I were building your truck I'd for sure run a 'better' turbo - like a new HX-35 with...ooohhhh...say a 14cm wastegated collar set at about 35 psi. You'll also definitely want...no, need...a 4" exhaust and downpipe. Assuming you don't want your truck to make you deaf, I'd recommend installing a 4" baffled and chambered muffler, and while I haven't yet 'heard' it I just installed pn# 7081Q from Heartthrob Exhaust - near the bottom of the page - Heartthrob Exhaust - Diesel Kits . While the 4" mufflers from Dynomax and Magnaflow look cool they are not good at reducing sound and still allow lots of 'drone' in the cab.

If you don't have a D70 out back - if it's a D60 (or even if it is a D70), I'd highly recommend replacing it with a newer 01-10 GM 14b full-float rear axle from any 2500 truck of the era, which will include factory disc brakes and incorporated e-brake - all off-the shelf, and bulletproof (make sure it isn't the newer (2011-up?) 8-lug with the just-slightly-bigger metric bolt pattern).

Interior. You will want every available application of sound insulation available, including a dash/firewall mat, hood liner, more firewall insulation, inner fender liners, and lastly, more hood and firewall insulation. 1st Gen Cummins' make a LOT of rattlerattlerattle...which is just the nature of the beast - they're awesome beasts but they are noisy beasts. I am actually working on making my own oil pan and valve cover covers/blankets, just to contain the maximum amount of 'rattle' that I can.

Next, please do check out my 'De-computerize your Dodge' thread as there is a lot of applicable info considering your plans. You don't have any computers in your 75, and you don't need any for your 6BT or trans to 'run', which is excellent. Assuming you use a 1st Gen intercooled engine you'll want to do all the 'easy' mods, especially the 366 spring. You can get plenty of power with the OE injectors, but bump up the fuel a bit with the full-fuel screw and then adjust the other things to clean up the smoke. I'd delete the OE WIF sensor with the conversion nipple and run the upgraded fuel filter. Definitely, definitely kill the KDP.

If you're looking for hardware (downpipe, turbo's etc) I'd recommend contacting Mark Wilson at Dieseltuff.com (in Canada, eh). He's a friend of mine and a long-time diesel performance guru.

Okay, that should be pretty good to get you started. Post up your plans, questions, progress, and for sure, pics!

Cheers!

- Sam

Hey, thanks. Love the truck too. A true time capsule. My names exactly whats by my avater, Barend. Lol. Dutch name.
Ill probably end up reading a large part of those threads and taking notes, the problem is, and i hate to say it, and with all due respect, theres lots of kinda useless replies talking about anything but the topic and everyone having a different opinion on every little thing. If it was 2000 post of just how to do the swap, id have long read em lol. Again, the replies are all part of it and always fun and interesting, but make it really long and i currently have very little free time, harvest season.
I really like my rear diff, as its 3.55 limited slip. Thats exactly what i want. Just have to double check if its a 60 or a 70. The cummins will probably eat the 60 for lunch, although i was talkimg with a guy at mopar fest who did the swap in a 70s shortbox stepside and was running the original 8 1/4 for years without issue. Although he probably never had anything behind that truck. And for the record, i forgot to mention it, but the truck will be a 2wd auto, just as it is now. The overdrive one, think its called the 518 or 46rh.
As for the crossmember, im wondering if i can use the stock gasser one or if i need one off a cummins truck? It will most likely have to be moved a ways back yes.
For the intercooler, ive snooped around on other threads and there seem to be plenty of folks who made the stock intercooler fit. Im sure i could fab something there. And while im fabbing anyway, might as well use a cummins rad and save the BB rad for my other project.
Gauges. I was thinking of making the temp and oil pressure ones work, while turning the alt meter for the battery into a boost or pyro and use the built in clock on the right side of the instrument panel for a tachometer. Could always locate some aftermarket gauges elsewhere in my truck. Just want the factory gauges working, even if theyre off a bit. Lol. Hoping i can make the fuel gauge work and that the speedo is not on a censor.
I will definitely be reading your thread on decomputerizing. I hate computers and wires with all my life.
Lastly, all very good advice you gave my for mods, and ill remember those for later years, but im not going crazy right now. Remeber, im still doing a nut and bolt ground up performance build of a 81-93 model truck. And man have the costs for that gotten out of hand. Cant afford 2 major projects at the same time, so gonna keep this one just kindof stock right now, as in stock as if it came with a cummins. I will touch the pump, get an exhaust and a hx35, however. As for sound deadening, i know the 12 valve is a rattle beast (Ive got one for a daily at the moment which i plan to sell and turn this into my reliable daily) and i love it. Makes you feel like you actually drive a truck and it keeps you awake. My current cummins has barely any sound deadening and a straight piped 4 inch exhaust, along with a whach of engine mods, and it sounds like Johnny Cash in my ears! So thats of no concern. Of course, that might change with age but im gladly not that far yet and ill see when i get there😜
Keep the good advice and tips coming, Sam!

 

[Barend]

I have pics that I can't find right now

The non-ic rad sits directly over the rad-support bolts.

The short fan hub on the 91-93 is the key to running the matching rad, support, and intercooler.

It is likely easier to modify the headlight locations on the diesel rad-support that to modify the old support.

Edit: I put alloy shafts in a D60 to run with a 5spd Cummins. They were the Yukon cut-to-length type and too cheap to pass over (like $55 each on Amazon at the time).

Well, if you find em pics, you know you can make a poor boy real happy with em 😆
As for the diesel support, i wonder if the 75 grille would bolt to that, even with the headlights in the right spot. But we'll see, i could be wrong

 

[Barend]

This here is for sale not too far away for not too much money. Would include nearly everything and wouldnt leave my with a heap of leftover parts like a complete donor truck would....

 

[u2slow]

That rolling chassis would be nice. The frame is beefier. Add the intercooled rad support to that (for customizing) and you'd have an easier time.

 

[Barend]

That rolling chassis would be nice. The frame is beefier. Add the intercooled rad support to that (for customizing) and you'd have an easier time.

Im keeping the 75 frame. 80 percent of factory paint still on it. Nicest frame ive seen. The truck wont have to work too hard

 

[Mad Max]

Hey, thanks. Love the truck too. A true time capsule. My names exactly whats by my avater, Barend. Lol. Dutch name.
Ill probably end up reading a large part of those threads and taking notes, the problem is, and i hate to say it, and with all due respect, theres lots of kinda useless replies talking about anything but the topic and everyone having a different opinion on every little thing. If it was 2000 post of just how to do the swap, id have long read em lol. Again, the replies are all part of it and always fun and interesting, but make it really long and i currently have very little free time, harvest season.

Well, I'm not really sure what specific question(s) you have? I don't think there is a thread in here identical to yours to provide step-by-step guidance, and it sounds like you're pretty good with a wrench, so unless you're planning to rebuild both the 6BT and trans, like I said earlier I would start with a good running 91.5-93 1st Gen 6BT and 2wd 46RH (or better, a 47RH), ideally one you can start and drive around including the highway so you know the hardware is 'good'. Set the engine on the 75's 2wd crossmember to see if it lines up, and if it does then bolt up the trans, locate the crossmember, drill the holes, and bolt it up; both should fit nicely between the firewall and radiator - IIRC there is less than an inch of space between the back of the #6 valve cover and the firewall; the only way to know for sure is just to drop them in place and see how they fit, and adjust the mounting locations as necessary - I've never done a 2wd swap so I'm afraid I can't give legitimate details. Locating the engine and trans will be the most critical aspect of the swap - once those are located in their proper places the rest will fall into place.

I really like my rear diff, as its 3.55 limited slip. Thats exactly what i want. Just have to double check if its a 60 or a 70. The cummins will probably eat the 60 for lunch, although i was talkimg with a guy at mopar fest who did the swap in a 70s shortbox stepside and was running the original 8 1/4 for years without issue. Although he probably never had anything behind that truck. And for the record, i forgot to mention it, but the truck will be a 2wd auto, just as it is now. The overdrive one, think its called the 518 or 46rh.
As for the crossmember, im wondering if i can use the stock gasser one or if i need one off a cummins truck? It will most likely have to be moved a ways back yes.

If you'll be running 'heavy' (not acceleration - just hills and/or highway speeds with a full camper and such, maybe a trailer?), the 6BT torque will 'test' D60; the D70 or 14b larger ring gears are just that much more capable of withstanding the never-ending torque. But, if you're not planning to haul 10,000 lbs worth of trailer and boat or toys...a D60 might hold up.

I love the 518s - really good transmissions - but like any trans, just keep 'em 'cool'. I'd also suggest/recommend a 618 (47RH), available from '95-96, with the addition of the lockup converter...if you can find one. And, and this is critically important - you will need a new/rebuilt torque converter. You don't need the mega-zoot full-race units with billet everything inside nor one from DTT or Suncoast or Goerand, but a freshly rebuilt or new aftermarket from Hughes or ATS or even local rebuilder will be critically important to keep your transmission from roasting. You will also want (#1) the OE Cummins heat exchanger (alongside the turbo), (#2) the Cummins trans cooler above the radiator, and (#3) the dealer-installed temperature-activated fan cooler mounted under the bed on the drivers side just behind the cab. Now that said, aftermarket versions of #2 and #3 are perfectly good too, probably better because the originals are near impossible to find.

For the intercooler, ive snooped around on other threads and there seem to be plenty of folks who made the stock intercooler fit. Im sure i could fab something there. And while im fabbing anyway, might as well use a cummins rad and save the BB rad for my other project.

Yah I am not certain a 1st Gen intercooler will fit behind a 70's grill, but if it does that is definitely the 'A' answer. Do you want A/C? (I would). If so that has to go in front of the radiator too.

Gauges. I was thinking of making the temp and oil pressure ones work, while turning the alt meter for the battery into a boost or pyro and use the built in clock on the right side of the instrument panel for a tachometer. Could always locate some aftermarket gauges elsewhere in my truck. Just want the factory gauges working, even if theyre off a bit. Lol. Hoping i can make the fuel gauge work and that the speedo is not on a censor.

Ed's point above was that the OE 70's gauges may not be quite as 'accurate' as they once were, but if you can replace all of them with a nice simple matching set of new aftermarket units you'd be a long ways towards much better intel on how the truck is doing. Personally I love the Autometer Z-series gauges - they're as close to the originals as there is, and the 2-1/16 units should fit the original dash panel without too much trouble - may have to open up the holes a little but not much. IIRC the 518 ad 618 have an electromechanical sending unit, which should provide proper signal to a new speedo.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/autometer-z-series-analog-gauges/part-type/gauges?fr=part-type&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending

I will definitely be reading your thread on decomputerizing. I hate computers and wires with all my life.

me too

Lastly, all very good advice you gave my for mods, and ill remember those for later years, but im not going crazy right now. Remeber, im still doing a nut and bolt ground up performance build of a 81-93 model truck. And man have the costs for that gotten out of hand. Cant afford 2 major projects at the same time, so gonna keep this one just kindof stock right now, as in stock as if it came with a cummins. I will touch the pump, get an exhaust and a hx35, however.

By 'performance' I didn't mean for racing - I just meant best use of 'normal' power the engine has buried within it. The best mod bar none is the $30 governor "366" spring - all it does is make the throttle more responsive - it does not 'make more smoke' or burn more fuel - all of that is still controlled by your right foot, but the 366 spring simply makes better use of the throttle input.

As for sound deadening, i know the 12 valve is a rattle beast (Ive got one for a daily at the moment which i plan to sell and turn this into my reliable daily) and i love it. Makes you feel like you actually drive a truck and it keeps you awake. My current cummins has barely any sound deadening and a straight piped 4 inch exhaust, along with a whach of engine mods, and it sounds like Johnny Cash in my ears! So thats of no concern. Of course, that might change with age but im gladly not that far yet and ill see when i get there😜
Keep the good advice and tips coming, Sam!

Sure thing

 

[u2slow]

AC condenser on a diesel goes in front of the rad support.

The diesel 2wds have the heavier 4000# suspension, and the dip in the draglink for the oil pan. The fuel tank is figured out with the later frame (different mid crossmember). Even if you don't do the whole frame, use the diesel front suspension complete. Might as well use the Dana 70 and matching driveshaft too.

 

[Barend]

AC condenser on a diesel goes in front of the rad support.

The diesel 2wds have the heavier 4000# suspension, and the dip in the draglink for the oil pan. The fuel tank is figured out with the later frame (different mid crossmember). Even if you don't do the whole frame, use the diesel front suspension complete. Might as well use the Dana 70 and matching driveshaft too.

Thanks. Good advice and info