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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Much to my displeasure, I just found out that I need to replace my rear pinion yoke on my 9 1/4. Would it be insanely stupid to not replace the crush sleeve in the process.
Don't hold back, I am prepared to hear the worst. :mad:

P.S. Anybody know of a good source for a new yoke?
 

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Obviously, someone like mrpeal would be better at answering this, but here goes.

As I understand it, the crush sleeve is responsible for pinion depth or pre-load (I can't remember which, maybe it's both). I think that if you re-used it, you may have problems later on.

Edit: I just re-read your post and realized you said yoke, not just pinion. I'm sorry. :-[

I defer to those with more knowledge. :)

However, I may still be able to be of some help. I have a 9.25 rear end from a 90 4x4 RC out back. Tomorrow after work I'll make sure the yoke is ok and it's yours if you want it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Bogie said:
I have just swaped the yolk out without doing anything else without ill effects
Do you mean you've done this recently?
The reason I ask is because the crush sleeve determines preload, so if there was any ill effects, they wouldn't show up quickly.
Coop, If I can't find a new one for a reasonable price, I may take you up on the offer. 8) Thanks
 

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This is from Randy's Ring and Pinion:
When setting the pinion bearing preload on a crush sleeve design differential, it is always necessary to use a new crush sleeve every time the pinion nut is removed, or if the sleeve is over-crushed.
I would go with a new sleeve. I was gonna do this on my 77 New Yorker but decided not to restore the old babe and just put her out to pasture. I even bought a special dial torque wrench from SK. I may still have the sleeve and maybe a new nut and washer if you want them...I will have to check the shed. What happened to the old yoke...is it physically destroyed or does it just have a deep groove where the seal rides? The groove can be fixed with a redi or speedi sleeve. Just some thoughts. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Chump, I'll let you know if I need the parts, but I shouldn't have any trouble finding a crush sleeve because I have bought them before.
My reason for hoping I didn't need a new crush sleeve is just the fact that I'll have to set-up my ring and pinion again. I sure wish it used shims like a Dana so I could just pop the pinion and carrier out, change the sleeve and pop them back in. :(
The reason I need to change the yoke is because the c-clips have somehow worn grooves into the yoke, so the u-joint can slide side to side, probably about .050". I'm not sure what caused this, but it could have been a loose u-joint strap that alowed the cap to move around. :mad:
I guess I'm just gonna have to dive in and do it right. :\'(
 

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I had verry little choice as to change the crush sleeve I blew the yolk apart on the highway going to a chapter meet :eek:


But it was done some time ago with manny miles put on the RC before I got rid of it with no further noise or problems from it ;D
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
In case anyone cares......after taking advice from mrpeal, the local axle experts in Salt Lake and from Bogie's experience, I'm not going to change the crush sleeve.
Also, the fact that this is the easier aproach, I'm all for it! ;D
Thanks for the help guys!
 

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I have replaced many pinion seals and or yoke in diffs w/ a crush sleeve and haven't ever replaced the crush sleeve unless I was putting new bearings in the diff. you just have to be careful when tightening down the yoke when going back together with it.
 

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Ditto, no need to replace. Just count the exposed threads on the pinion before pulling the nut, then tighten to EXACT same spec when done.
My spare change,
Mike
 
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