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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After having a bad oil leak on the intake for months, I pulled the intake and I found a crack in the valley pan. I noticed that the pan had been moving a lot when I would rev the motor, and a fine mist of oil would come outta nowwhere, I found it today. I added an extra valve cover breather, so now I have one on each side. Will this help the motor breathe better or should I look else where for a problem. I put in a new pvc already and was running 1 vent on the valve cover thanks Mike
 

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1 pcv and one breather should be good. You might have excessive blow by. If you replace the valley pan and put it back together it should be good to go. You might try to figure out why it cracked
 

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Sometimes after years of seeing water get on them heat up and burn off they just deteriorate.

 

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My 413 had the same problem, But it looked like heat/weather/old age was it's demise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, I am probably going for ecxessive blowby as this was a newer valley pan. And it has a some wear on the rings. Maybe I'll make it til next year to build it...
 

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Can you describe the crack, dimensions, location, etc? Maybe you can patch it up with some JB Weld if the crack is not too wide, until you get a chance to replace the valley pan.

Mac
 

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blowby shouldn't crack the pan. something else would of done that such as bad installation or the head was milled but not the intake side to match
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'll see if I can get pic for it. The crack is right in the center of the pan, Between cyl's 2 and 3.
 

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Sure Fire ******* Fix: Cut out an oval shaped piece of sheet metal (tin) big enough to cover the crack with some overlap. Scour the pan and the patch completely clean then glue on with JB Weld or equivalent. If the manifold is directly above the patch - jam something in between them (metal), and leave it there forever... I'd spray a little primer on it too. Don't jam it in there too tight though, it will crack somewhere else.
 

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Ramjet said:
Sure Fire ******* Fix: Cut out an oval shaped piece of sheet metal (tin) big enough to cover the crack with some overlap. Scour the pan and the patch completely clean then glue on with JB Weld or equivalent. If the manifold is directly above the patch - jam something in between them (metal), and leave it there forever... I'd spray a little primer on it too. Don't jam it in there too tight though, it will crack somewhere else.
i don t mean to be a jerk but that s beyond half-ass.
valley pans are inexpensive and simple to replace.

get hold of a 'leak-down' tester. this ll pinpoint your problem. kind of like a compression tester but better.
 

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We all know what valley pans cost, and what is involved in replacing one, however, the original poster probably has reasons for not simply going from point A to point B and replacing the valley pan. Having said that, this thread then becomes an exercise in improvisation. Lighten up dude, have some fun.

Mac

Johno said:
Ramjet said:
Sure Fire ******* Fix: Cut out an oval shaped piece of sheet metal (tin) big enough to cover the crack with some overlap. Scour the pan and the patch completely clean then glue on with JB Weld or equivalent. If the manifold is directly above the patch - jam something in between them (metal), and leave it there forever... I'd spray a little primer on it too. Don't jam it in there too tight though, it will crack somewhere else.
i don t mean to be a jerk but that s beyond half-ass.
valley pans are inexpensive and simple to replace.

get hold of a 'leak-down' tester. this ll pinpoint your problem. kind of like a compression tester but better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have the new pan and am going to replace it. I drive this daily so, I'm trying to get it done right. No ofense to anyone. I wondered has anyoneused the fiber gaskets that go over/under the valley pan. The one I put on didn't have any with the box.
 

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I haven't used those type of gaskets in along long time, i went to aan and regular gaskets (race car stuff) but as for the scouring the pan and doing that insane idea that someone else said, listen very carefully when you scour the pan and some little pieces of metal drop into your motor you'll be real happy then so don't ever do that, if your gonna do a quick fix just throw silicone over it, if you go to the race car style cover you can put a breather in that too.
 

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Glad you decided to do it right! :)

67MIke said:
I have the new pan and am going to replace it. I drive this daily so, I'm trying to get it done right. No ofense to anyone. I wondered has anyoneused the fiber gaskets that go over/under the valley pan. The one I put on didn't have any with the box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ED Have you got any pics of that type pan or part number thanks Mike
 

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67MIke said:
I have the new pan and am going to replace it. I drive this daily so, I'm trying to get it done right. No ofense to anyone. I wondered has anyoneused the fiber gaskets that go over/under the valley pan. The one I put on didn't have any with the box.
I have used the FelPro racing gasket (1215?), that has the heat crossover blocked and comes with the 4 fiber gaskets you mentioned. I found it difficult to install the manifold bolts with all those gaskets in place. On a truck, I would just use the steel gasket with a little sealant around the ports.
 
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