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What studs?  On the front axle?
 

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There are some other D44 axles that use U-bolts instead of studs, but none that Dodge ever made since '74 or so.  It may be possible to grind the webbing to use a U-bolt, but it would weaken the already weak CAD housing.

How on earth did you manage to sheer them off?
 

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I was curious about this as well.  Got a chassis this weekend to swap the axles out for my RC and really had to work on the u-bolts with PB blaster, heat and lots of time with the impact.  Left the studs for last and have not gotten to them yet, but would have liked to know if there was an alternative should they get damaged.
 

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Just cut the U-bolts, you really aren't supposed to try and reuse them.  The studs you have to reuse, but sometimes have to replace them if you lift the truck and end up with a thick spring pack and need longer studs.

But typically, the studs are more than adequate for the job and I am curious how you could break them without completely destroying the axle housing.
 

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Yes WFO concepts sells a kit to do it. Have to notch the webbing on the bottom and drill the webbing on the back.
If you have facebook they have a video about it. Search WFO Concepts, and the video was posted Feb 26.
 

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Elwenil said:
Just cut the U-bolts, you really aren't supposed to try and reuse them. The studs you have to reuse, but sometimes have to replace them if you lift the truck and end up with a thick spring pack and need longer studs.

But typically, the studs are more than adequate for the job and I am curious how you could break them without completely destroying the axle housing.
Just trying to reuse the u bolts that came with the chassis so I can keep it together to move around til I sell it, not wanting to invest in new u bolts for the short term. I have new u bolts for putting the new axles under the RC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks a lot everybody. A lot of helpful information. I’m also surprised they both sheared. I do a lot of off roaming and I took off my sway bar to get more flex so they just popped I guess. There’s still about a quarter inch sticking off each one.
 

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Can these studs be replaced with new say because of corrosion or damage, if so how do they come out. I'm going to be at this soon in my suspension rebuild and mine do not look to good. ???
 

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polarax500 said:
Can these studs be replaced with new say because of corrosion or damage, if so how do they come out.
The ones in my Dana 60 came out on their own instead of the nut backing off. May have to use penetrating oil, heat, stud remover, etc. The D60 ones are 9/16" NC into the cast... not sure if the D44 are same or smaller.

If I had an ugly stud situation on a D44 with CAD, I'd be very tempted to switch to a std housing or a D60.
 

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Old thread, I know.  But for future readers;  On my 88 RC I upgraded the front springs and they are 3/4 inch thicker than the stock spring pack.  I was able to remove the studs by using two nuts jammed together.  At first they would not move, and I saw what looked like yellow thread locking compound.  So I used an acetylene torch to heat the studs up.  Then they came out. The studs are 9/16 coarse thread into the axle housing and fine thread going thru the spring hold down plate.
I was unable to find studs with the additional length so I used grade 8 bolts, 9/16 x 12nc x 4 inch long.   

Welding a nut to a broken stud works very well; I have done this successfully. The heat from the welding helps it along. 

Lastly, the u-bolt on the passenger side is bigger (3 - 3/4) than the driver’s side (3 in.) Now I got to wait until Monday to finish the job...
 

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Thank for the link to the studs.  You are correct about the studs; I measured very carefully, with everything in place, then added 1/8 lock washers.
 

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Adamell said:
I was able to remove the studs by using two nuts jammed together.
While not always an option (due to short studs) I have found that using THREE nuts jammed together works great. Torque two nuts together, this "stretches" or puts into a bind the portion of stud that they cover. Then add third nut & torque it to the middle nut, this seems to put another portion of the stud under tension. Then use the first nut as wrenching point. I use this trick on exhaust studs.

Bucky
 

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Heat up the area around the stud and melt a candle around the remaining stud the wax will wick around the threads allowing you to remove it . If stubborn you may have to do it a few times but it will work . Drilling a hole in the center will allow tension to relieve on the threads easing removal also .
 
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