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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I know the chevy axles are a little wider then Dodge ones, with bigger spring pads that are 1/2 further apart, right? So how do I make it fit on my Dodge? Because I'm getting a front chevy D60 from a friend for almost nothing, and I know they can work on our trucks, I just need to know how.
Accually, I've been thinking it'd be a cool idea to swap on some longer springs (to increase flex), so if there are any chevy ones that might be a good idea.
 

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I make ist just last week!

You need bigger Wheel Nuts because the Dana 60 has 5/8 unef 24 and bigger Studs at the Diff.... The U Bolts are Bigger too!

But ist works!


Anti,...
 

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I've been running a Chev 60 in the front for almost 4 years now. If I remember correctly the Chev spring pads are 1/2" narrower, but it bolts up easily. You might have to shim the shackles a little, I never have but I think Stupiddodge on this board used to have a 60 set up this way. Like said above get the spring plates and you'll need bigger u-bolts.
 

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Back to this, don't forget d shafts
 

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Make sure you get a set of SRW hubs for the front...
-Steve C.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
whlnwgn said:
Make sure you get a set of SRW hubs for the front...
-Steve C.
Accually I'm considering using Hummer double beadlocks with the stock 7" backspacing, should work out OK with the dually hub. I know single front hubs are technically the right way to do it but I really don't want to pay an extra $300+ for the hubs. Plus this way I don't even have to pay to have the hummer beadlocks recentered, so its kinda the best of both worlds. Even though I know Marty hates hummer wheels because their so heavy. hehe
 

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Yes, I did this. I spread out the front spring hangers and used shim washers to put the springs in better alignment with the pads. Same thing with the shackles and used longer bolts. You don't need much on each side, and as Snowflake said, it can be done without shimming most of the time.

Some other things were the brake lines, which had to be made up, and drill and tap the housing for the line mounts. Shocks mounted up easily enough.

You will probably need to find a Dodge steering arm or go crossover. I don't think the chevy arm has the right taper for the drag link end.

That's pretty much it.
 

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gmule said:
The chevy arm taperd from the top down. Dodge arms are from the bottom up.
Thanks. I couldn't remember. When I had the chevy 60F I used the chevy adjustable drag link and steering box. I've since put everything back to Dodge parts.
 

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Use the dodge steering arm.
 

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Yes you have to change the steering arm,I have a dually Chevy Dana 60 sittin in the floor right now,you have to get a DODGE steering arm,bigger u-bolts,either make or buy chevy spring plates,have to make custom brake lines,bigger lug nuts. Thats about it I think..

Jimmy
 

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Here's what i can remember having to do when I swapped in my chevy D-60:
New U-bolts due to bigger axle tubes
New lugnuts
For the brakelines, I welded a stud onto the axle and just used the factory dodge flex hose from the engine crossmember to the axle. From there I ran steel tubing to the spring perches where I made a bracket that held the chevy rubber hoses.
I had to make new frame shock mounts to move the shocks slightly to clear the steering arm.
For the drag link I used the stock chevy piece and lengthened it about two inches.
To accept the chevy drag link the pitman arm had to have the taper enlarged.
The pinion on the D-60 sticks out farther, so you could probably just shorten your driveshaft. I took a dodge driveshaft and cut out the CV, so it just has a single u-foint at each end now, and lengthened it.
I did not relocate the spring perches, and so far I have not had any problems with bushings wearing out.

Craig
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
And to dig up an old thread.... Anyone out there have a Dodge D60 steering arm I could have/buy? Maybe someone who did crossover and doesn't need the old steering arm anymore?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hey, Back again with this old thread. I was putting in that axle last night, and i got the passenger side bolted up first, then when I went to do the drivers side... its about an inch off. The spring perches aren't too far apart, they're too close, so I can't see any way I could use spacers and stuff. Is this right?
To clarify: One side (passenger) is completly bolted up, with the spring pin centered on the perch, and the other spring pin is 1" too far to the right (if looking at it from the front), meaning the perches are 1" too close together.
Was I supposed to not line up the center pins the normal way?
Can I just take a drill and make a new center pin hole in the perches?
Or do I have to relocate one perch?
 

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My brother put Chevy 3/4 ton axles under a customer's RC recently. He (his employee) just pulled the springs together a little with tie downs or something, got bolts started, tightened it up & ran it. It all seemes to be fine. He has done this on another RC in the past.
FYI.
 
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