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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i've just gotten home with my new to me 440 from the junkyard. there i witnessed the most interesting way i've seen yet to retrieve a motor. the guys peeled the vintage winnie open like a tomato can with a forklift until there was just open sky above the engine......pretty cool to watch.

my questions,
are the winnie motor mounts the same as for a truck?
are the winnie manifolds the same as for a truck?
last what modifications would you do to try to produce a little more grunt on a budget of let's say $1500?

the engine has a born on date of may 1975, it runs good and has less the 30k, says 440-2 on the block but 440-3 on the valve cover.

Michael
 

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intake, carb,cam, headers, exhaust.
 

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MOPAR Performance used to sell a do it yourself head porting kit for big block heads. It had templates to show EXACTLY how much material to take out, very nice. I don't have a clue about a part number for it but someone should. Don't know about the manifolds etc,. Since the motor is out, right now take the time and (40 bucks) to replace the timing chain and gears. The cam drive has a nylon ring gear that just begs to be thrown out with tomorrows trash, one MaMopars few engineering shortfalls.

What kyot said, you should be able to find a matched intake carb and cam (call one of the manufacturers of cams so they can help you match everything) Upgrade to a true electronic ignition from Mopar it will help it run better.

A good set of cast factory exhaust manifolds will make more torque down low but are heavy (not much of a concern in a big truck) and wont flow as good as decent headers on high rpm. Either way get a dual exhaust setup with a crossover pipe (H pipe) or X pipe.

Cheers

CV
 

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obxcharger, the mh 440-3 is a great find. the 440-2 cast on the block is the revision # of the casting number on the block. in this case 2nd revision. the 440-3 is the build version, which means heavy duty. this includes a double roller timing set, increased cooling capacity and an rv cam. (may have a forged crank as well--yu can tell quickly by the vib damper--(thin for forged, thick for cast). with the low mileage, i prob would not do much to the engine except valve cover gaskets as these tend to cook on the mh engines. depending on how long the engine has set idle of course. it all depends what you want out of the eng. if your goal is hp, then yu have some more work to do. in any case i would check it out throughly. compression/plugs ect. the 440-3 is a torque monster in 75. later ones were killed w/polution junk (lower compression ect). will make a great rc or truck engine. keep us posted with what you find out on the engine. good luck --sheriff--
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks for the heads up fellows.
after looking at my new baby again this am, guess the motor has a cast crank, the damper looks about an inch thick.what are the cons of this? and you're right about the manifolds cooking the valve cover gaskets, they're toast.

i'm not looking for lots of hp from this engine because most of it's use will be on the trail at low rpm and just cruising the beach.i just want a reliable mill that will get me there and back time and again. is the stock rv cam what i want or would another grind be better? what do i need to do to the block/heads after 15+ years of just sitting there,only being turned over a few minutes every six months or so if that. would you shave the heads to gain a little more compression?since i know she'll be a pig it'll prolly see lots of 87 octane.
what ignition should i use ? don't really see the need for a wild $ msd or mallory set up.
 

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OBXCHARGER said:
thanks for the heads up fellows.
after looking at my new baby again this am, guess the motor has a cast crank, the damper looks about an inch thick.what are the cons of this? and you're right about the manifolds cooking the valve cover gaskets, they're toast.

i'm not looking for lots of hp from this engine because most of it's use will be on the trail at low rpm and just cruising the beach.i just want a reliable mill that will get me there and back time and again. is the stock rv cam what i want or would another grind be better? what do i need to do to the block/heads after 15+ years of just sitting there,only being turned over a few minutes every six months or so if that. would you shave the heads to gain a little more compression?since i know she'll be a pig it'll prolly see lots of 87 octane.
what ignition should i use ? don't really see the need for a wild $ msd or mallory set up.
a few things/questions to think about. is the engine free (not stuck from setting)? is the engine complete w/starter/transmission or torque convertor? if yes, do you have a way to hook up fresh battery and turn engine over to check compression, oil pressure using a priming tool. not a bad idea to replace valve seals w/viton seals. there are ways to replace the seals w/o removing the heads/intake. a 1" damper indicates a steel crank. cast cranks used a damper closer to 2" thick. i would try to determine the condition of the engine before tearing into it at all. if you are looking for a basicly stock engine, using low octane fuel, what you have now w/a stock eng is about as good as you will do. i would go thru the fuel system as over time it has prob deteriated. another thing w/the ignition. the vac anv and mech adv springs in the orig distributor are tailored to the rv cam and engine application. hope this helps. --sheriff--
 

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Something i had to do when i first got my 440 ready was to pull the oil pump off and manually prime it.. after sitting a few years, it didn't want to pick up... Just something to look into.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
tore the front mostly down today,alt,steering pump,water pump,etc..(they'll all be replaced with new anyway)
degreased and power washed her. she's got the cast crank, said so on the damper. gonna be buying an engine stand this week and getting a little deeper into it from there, timing chain & oil pump. i'd like to check compression too, i can do that with out having the trans and starter attached can't i ? i checked the plugs they are a nice shade of brown at the electrode and the engine spins freely. took the manifolds off too cuz i found out they wouldn't work. gonna get a good set of jethot coated headers for her now, got to get a rear sump pan and pick up too. also think i'll get that eddy intake and an eddy or the holley offroad carb, put new valve seals in, new mopar ignition, paint the block and heads red and let er' eat!

thanks for all the help and suggestions.
Michael
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
oh yeah i checked the block casting #'s against what's here on RCC in "faq's" and going by that it's a 78' instead of what the vavle cover sticker is saying it being a 75', what gives?
 

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OBXCHARGER said:
oh yeah i checked the block casting #'s against what's here on RCC in "faq's" and going by that it's a 78' instead of what the vavle cover sticker is saying it being a 75', what gives?
what is the casting #?if 4006830, it is 78/79. what is the head casting #? 4006452? does the heads have 5/8 plugs instead of 13/16? if so the heads are 452 and have double valve spring w/exh valve rotators. they also have cooling passages around the base of each plug. intresting that is said 75 on valve covers and a casting date of may 75.you will need the tx and starter to check compression. --sheriff--
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
just went out to check,you got me wondering what i realy have here. the vavle cover sticker has the date of manufacture choices of 74 or 75 with the 75 having a hole punched in it,440-3 with a hole and the month of may with a hole also. but the block has 4006630-440-2 and adjacent from the dist 5T 440E 4 29 and the heads are 4006452 with 5/8 plugs. so i guess this is the emissions engine you spoke of before. tell you what tho she is clean as a pin under the covers, not a speck of soot anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
after snooping in the jeg's and summit cats i think i'll be getting the MP alum h20 pump and housing. along with the headers and intake i hope to shave a little wieght off this beast. i already have enough with the bumper/winch combo and dana 60.
 

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Did you get the tranny too?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
sheriff said:
just did some checking. the #'s on the pad, 5t means 1975,e after 440 means cast crank. a site than give you info on casting/pad numbers http://www.geocities.com/musclemopars/brbblock.htm
this has got me confuuuuuuuuzzed! the stamped # says 75 but block/head casting # scream 78.drool.... :p......so what are the draw backs of the cast crank and 452 heads if any?
 

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OBXCHARGER said:
sheriff said:
just did some checking. the #'s on the pad, 5t means 1975,e after 440 means cast crank. a site than give you info on casting/pad numbers http://www.geocities.com/musclemopars/brbblock.htm
above the casting # on the block is the casting date. a sure sign of the block year, no question. 452 mh heads are nearly as good as the 906 as far as flow up to about 5K. they have better cooling w/5/8 plugs, have exh valve rotators and double int/exh valve springs, although my 79 did not specify unleaded fuel, i am sure the valve seats were induction hardened. (all part of the 440-3 package).(all a plus).i have a 79 mh w/the same casting. compression 7.8/1. i think 75 were around 8.3/1 cr. i don't what the exact cutoff was for the so called thin wall castings, was right around the 75 timeframe. there are more black holes than this one in the documentation. if your casting date cast on the block is in 75, mh obviously used the 4006630 block earlier than 78 for mh. cars/light truck prob did not. the waterpump on the eng should have had larger blades. most rpl pumps have smaller. high flow pump may be avail from mopar. i use a high flow pump from milodon. cast cranks are ok. if you rpl the damper/tq convertor/flywheel, they have to be for cast crank.another tid bit. th tq conv is prob a smaller dia w/matching smaller dia torque plate. i think this gives less slip than the larger one under load. good luck --sheriff--

this has got me confuuuuuuuuzzed! the stamped # says 75 but block/head casting # scream 78.drool.... :p......so what are the draw backs of the cast crank and 452 heads if any?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
guess we need to add a revision to the "faqs" cuz the date cast above 4006630 440-2 on the pass side of the block is 75.

and hey sheriff i see in your sig that you have a 440 breathing thru a 360's tbi. any threads here on that yet? i have tbi on the 318 now and would love to be able to move it over to the 440 when it gets swapped in.

one more for you, i have the trans&converter from the mh also. the mh's 727 loooong trans tail shaft will unbolt, is this the same as my small blocks 4x4 727's tailshaft pattern? will my t-case adapter bolt to it? and can i just swap shafts&guts between the two?
 
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