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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1982 w150 with a (I think) stock swapped 360 4spd.
Edelbrock 1805. (They day almost no different than the 1405) with electric choke

So I’m trying to learn about carbs. I know this ran good in the summer when I first got it, now it runs like hell.
Any tips? Tricks? I’ve been to and from YouTube every step of the way, I had a professional clean it, but now it isles good but off idle she falls on her face. Once wound up she scoots, it’s the intermission between the two.

So today I’m gonna be checking my floats, installing a polymeric 1 inch spacer for heat isolation, and trying to dial her in again.
I’m 27 years old as of February 15th. You old guys kick ass at the carb game. Teach me. Learn me what ya know because this is quickly becoming a dying art xD
 

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yes , todays gas plays hell with eddy carbs . a good cleaning of the tiny passages will probably make it work again , if it ran well when you parked it , unless a float has gotten a hole , and filled with fuel , I wouldn't mess with settings at all . Just clean it inside .
 

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First, go to Edelbrock's website and download the owner's manual for your model of carb.  It has tuning instructions.  Second, the main problem with modern fuel in carbureted vehicles is that modern gas slowly dissolves the old rubber fuel lines which leads to clogged fuyel filters and carburetor passages.  Replace the fuel filter, replace all rubber fuel lines with modern fuel injection rated hose (get hose that has "30R9" printed on the side), and you should be fine.

Sounds like you might have an accelerator pump or choke setting problem, or a vacuum leak.  Make sure you have all the vacuum ports on the carb properly connected (or capped, consult the owner's manual).  make sure you get a healthy squit of gas down the throat of the carb (remove air cleaner and WITH THE ENGINE OFF open the throttle. You should see a strong stream of gas in each primary bore).  Make sure the choke opens fully when the engine is warmed up.  Make sure there are no vacuum leaks around the base of the carb.  Get a vacuum gauge and report your vacuum at idle.
 

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My 83 came with the Eddy 1406 electric choke and performer intake. After a new install of a fresh 318, hooker long tube headers, and everything buttoned down, new gaskets, break in oil, and all the goodies I leaned it out and timing set @ 10 BTDC, it runs just peachy. I use the 15W-40 Rotella for oil because it has a lot of Zinc, good for valve seals and guides. The 1405 is manual choke, the 1406 is electric choke.

Hope this helps

Stephen
 

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The 1805 is the AVS (air valve secondary) line of carbs and is actually superior to the performer line of carbs.  On the AVS the secondaries have a flap (essentially a choke flap) that controls air flow through the secondaries.  This flap is adjustable and when adjusted properly ensure that only the amount of air the engine can actually use will be allowed through the secondaries.  I really want to get one or two of those carbs for my 82 RC and my 76 D100.
 

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They both have the air valve, just on the 1400 series, it has a weight to control the flow. The 1800 series, while adjustable, is also real easy to mess up. Unless one knows carbs, and carb theory, or wants to learn, I would suggest they stick to the 1400 series. The extra advantage, and cost, of the 1800 is not justified.
 

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agreed both have air valve . both with todays gas get goobers in the jets from disuse . gunk looks like clear silicone balls , its from the methanol in the gas . 
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for all the advice! I’ll be pulling it off again today to see if I can’t find an issue with the float settings, and check out the jets. I’ll let ya know what I come up with! I already replaced the fuel filter and I’ll be replacing the lines after it to make sure the after hoses aren’t deteriorating. I already see a little black spec in my new glass filter.
 

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charcoal from the vapor canister ?  if its hooked up still ... if yes place a fuel filter between the carb and that canister.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well the floats were way out, fixed.
No fuel squirting into drivers side butterfly, cleaned and fixed.
Now it runs MUCH better. But still off idle stutter and pop through the carb.
Starting to think it might be timing related?

Charcoal canisters not hooked up, nothing going to the pcv valve,

Played with the accelorator pump adjustment, none seemed to make much difference other than going like a bat outta hell when floored. Still just an off idle hesitation, but it starts really good.
 

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you have the right ideas , either too lean/late of a squirt ,(accelerator pump) ,  or timing , or a little of both ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well I’m still toying with it, still isn’t right.. pulled the carb back off for now, gonna try getting one of those thick gaskets and ditch the open spacer, as the old thick gasket was damaged, and the new open bore 1 inch spacer should actually be a dual plane, but I have to have something in there for the butterflies to clear the intake. Maybe the open spacer is causing the dead spot?
 
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