[Mad Max]

I don't know the technical reasons why, but diesels have added oiling to the cylinder walls on the down stroke(s) and the detergent is in the oil to clean the soot out, which is why diesel oil gets black so fast, and is also why IMPO using synthetic oil in a diesel is a waste of money (despite a higher rated change interval the oil gets dirty long before the interval comes due, and the benefits of the longer-lasting oil are moot). But anyway...

 

[Mopar572]

I have started seeing castrol classic car oil at wal mart lately, although you have to get 20w50

 

[Canadian country boy]

Any store that carries Lucas Oil products (including Wally World) will most likely have the Lucas classic car oil with zinc in it also, also every parts store that sells oil sells a zinc additive - well at least all of the parts stores in Canada do.

 

[Mad Max]

yes that is an option, but personally I do not think adding a bottle of 'additive' results in the same chemistry as properly formulated oil. I do not have technical data to prove it nor will I debate it, it's just what's I've come across and how I personally feel about it. That's all .

This will not become a debate on oil. Back to the OPs original query.

 

[Canadian country boy]

I agree, i dont want to debate it. All im going to say is that every person that i sold a zinc additive to when I worked in a parts store and every person that i know that uses a separate additive in their classic has not had any camshaft problems. The additive gets thouroughly mixed travelling through the oiling system, especially as it goes through the pump. I myself have always used Lucas Oil with zinc in it so I can't personally say if the additive you pour in is good or bad from personal experience but I don't hear anyone complaining so no gnews must be good gnews - by Gary Gnew. 😁

 

[Warlock78]

I do appreciate any and ALL comments here.
But I hate for this to become a diesel oil debate.
Actually, this thread has now caused me to spend hours reading about ZDDP and flat tappet cams. One thing keeps coming up from oil experts (not chat forum opinions) is diesel oil ain't what it used to be and is not a wise choice when Valvoline VR1 and Mobil1 15w50 are READILY available and have ZDDP greater than 1000 ppm.
* Good read about diesel oil in gasoline engines here:
www.motortrend.com/how-to/diesel-oil-in-gasoline-engine/
* And here:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=7gkegS8wM88
* And check out SPEEDiagnostix youtube channel

Oh crap....I myself probably just started something

I got a chuckle with the pic of the Bullet cam specs that stated "Not legal in California". That in itself makes it GTG!

Now back to my cam choice........
I have been on the Hughes site and have read. I need to read again .... and again

I'm tending to believe I need to be looking for a cam generally referred to as an "RV Cam"
P4452757
Dur. @ 050 211 / 218
Lift .410/.425
Reported to have tons of torque at idle, but seems a bit "small" for an engine that will have close to 10:1 CR
Elgin has several that look interesting:
E-578-S
Dur. @ 050 209/220
Valve Lift 429 / 440

Head is spinning again...........

 

[Mad Max]

that RV cam is pretty close to what came stock in my magnum 360, and yah while it's good for RV driving it really limits the mid range and essentially has 'no' top end power - that's why I upgraded to the Comp 264/270 - I wanted my real power band from 1500-4500, and that's what I think I now have. I'll know soon

Also, VR1 and Driven HR5 were my go-to oils of choice in the 440 I just replaced, and would be for any future flat-tappet cam engine I might use...but I'm pretty sure I'm done with flat-tap engines...I'm restoring a 71 Demon and it's getting a magnum 318 (roller cam)...

 

[Mopar572]

To clear up some confusion, yes a lot of diesel oil isnt what it used to be...You need one thats only rated CK, if its dual rated and carries the SN rating it has to meet the SN spec which is 800 ppm....Rotella still has 1200 ppm.

VR1 is a racing oil, made for race cars that get new oil after every pass at the track (not street driven 3,000 mile change intervals.)

 

[Warlock78]

just realized one thing making my head spin over cam specs is some talk ADVERTISED duration and some talk duration @ .050
good grief

 

[Warlock78]

that RV cam is pretty close to what came stock in my magnum 360, and yah while it's good for RV driving it really limits the mid range and essentially has 'no' top end power - that's why I upgraded to the Comp 264/270 - I wanted my real power band from 1500-4500, and that's what I think I now have. I'll know soon

Hmmmm......interesting! Now that I look, that Elgin E-578-S I posted is basically the old 69-73 340 cam and the later 360-4bbl
My 79 Lil Red supposedly had that cam and it was a dog.

 

[Warlock78]

VR1 is a racing oil, made for race cars that get new oil after every pass at the track (not street driven 3,000 mile change intervals.)

.....and this thread continues to make me read/research more and more! (taking my mind off how bad this covid crap is making me feel!)

VR1 may say "racing oil", but Per Valvoline website:
"Valvoline VR-1 Racing 15W40 is recommended for use in cars, light truck, van, or SUV where API “SM” is recommended. "
"Valvoline™ VR1 Racing Oil's high zinc provides race-level protection for high performance engines on the race track and is compatible with most passenger vehicles. "
www.valvolineglobal.com/en-asia/vr-1-racing/

It also has an American flag on the bottle, so obviously it's for patriotic American Muscle! 🇺🇲

I think SM was what was on the shelves like 2004-2010, so would that not indicate this oil does have detergents and was for street driven cars back then?

 

[KurtfromLaQuinta]

I do appreciate any and ALL comments here.
But I hate for this to become a diesel oil debate.
Actually, this thread has now caused me to spend hours reading about ZDDP and flat tappet cams. One thing keeps coming up from oil experts (not chat forum opinions) is diesel oil ain't what it used to be and is not a wise choice when Valvoline VR1 and Mobil1 15w50 are READILY available and have ZDDP greater than 1000 ppm.
* Good read about diesel oil in gasoline engines here:
www.motortrend.com/how-to/diesel-oil-in-gasoline-engine/
* And here:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=7gkegS8wM88
* And check out SPEEDiagnostix youtube channel

Oh crap....I myself probably just started something

I got a chuckle with the pic of the Bullet cam specs that stated "Not legal in California". That in itself makes it GTG!

Now back to my cam choice........
I have been on the Hughes site and have read. I need to read again .... and again

I'm tending to believe I need to be looking for a cam generally referred to as an "RV Cam"
P4452757
Dur. @ 050 211 / 218
Lift .410/.425
Reported to have tons of torque at idle, but seems a bit "small" for an engine that will have close to 10:1 CR
Elgin has several that look interesting:
E-578-S
Dur. @ 050 209/220
Valve Lift 429 / 440

Head is spinning again...........

When you modify an engine... especially stroke/ bore it for more cubic inches... you can go bigger on everything cam wise.
Overlap kills torque.
The best way to get more torque is with high lift/ short duration. Or more compression.
Be careful with to much compression with iron heads. You won't be able to get the pump gas to stop detonation/ knock.
Been there.

 

[Warlock78]

I have now sent cam suggestion requests to:
Hughes Engines
Comp Cams
Lunati

I spoke to Howard's and was recommended:
710011-12
dur @ .050 205 / 213
Adv dur ; 259 / 267
Valve lift ; 420 / 430
Lobe center ; 108
LSA ; 112
Range ; 1200 - 4600
Comment he made: biggest mistake he sees is folks going too big on a cam. This one is his recommendation for best blend of torque and MPG with the stock torque converter. He estimated with this cam and my combination, the engine should easily produce 300+ HP

Can't wait to see what responses I get from Hughes, Comp & Lunati

​

 

[440 4spd Power Ram]

I see it all the time, too much cam and not enough gear, a terrible combination.