[Warlock78]

I'm now retired and finally going to rebuild the tired 360 (LA) in our 78 Warlock Power Wagon.
I readily admit that cam specs make my head spin......I have been reading all day long!
Therefore, I would love some input on a cam (& possibly intake) that would make a good driver with oomph. (will have A/C, P/S and P/B).
Pertinent info:
Sealed Power H116CP Hypereutectic Pistons that should give 9.5-10 cr
308 hi-swirl heads (all new valves, no rotators)
Windage tray
3.54 gears
33x12.50-15 tires
727 torqueflight

I am also debating keeping the Thermoquad & Performer, which I like, or going to a Holley Sniper
Thanks!
-steve

 

[440 4spd Power Ram]

If you like the Thermoquad and are considering going to a Sniper I highly recommend the Sniper Quadrajet, fully progressive spreadbore TBI that bolts in place of a Q-Jet or Thermoquad.

 

[Mad Max]

Love it - all of it 👍 . Unless you need better performance off-road (steep angles, big changes in altitude, etc), you won't likely gain much with EFI. I'd instead suggest a good TQ rebuild and good aftermarket ignition system like the MSD Ready-to-Run. You can also go with the Demon Carbs TQ replacement - https://www.summitracing.com/search...let/single?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending

Cams are a bit more difficult to review, but I can offer this: I am nearing completion and fire-up of my '02 Magnum 360 built for 'truck' duty, at Comp Cam's recommendation I installed their 20-745-9: 212-218 (264/270), .480/.480, on a 114* LSA. The next cam down was their 20-744-9, which is a 206/212 (258/264, also with .480.480), but on a 112*, and with my intended use he indicated the 114* of the taller cam would make my idle a bit better while still giving a real nice mid-range and upper end, and that sounded good to me.

I do not know off the top of my head if the Magnum cams are interchangeable with the LA cams, but call Comp and ask them what the equivalent LA cam is. The 264/270 sounds like a bit more cam than I might have originally thought I'd want, but after talking with the tech there he said with the big 114* LSA it'll act like a smaller cam at idle but offer real good gains in the mid range, so that's how I went. I'll know soon if that was a good decision or not.

Also, Hughes recommended a 210/216, on a 110*, and both Howards and Bullet had similar recommendations...but no cams were available at either and there was no end in sight for backorders, so Comp Cams it was.

OBTW, I think the stock/OE cam is 184/194, .410/.410, 112*... = tiny!

Xtreme Energy Computer Controlled 212/218 Hydraulic Roller Cam for Chrysler Magnum
Xtreme Energy Computer Controlled 212/218 Hydraulic Roller Cam for Chrysler Magnum with 1.6 Rockers. Strong towing cam for the 360, performance cam for the 318 with better exhaust and computer modifications. (Note: 1992-02 w/ Stud Mount Rockers & Electric Fuel Pump, Short Snout)

www.compcams.com

I went with a Sniper but I didn't want any more linkage and tuning hassles than absolutely necessary, so I opted for a 2300 series 2bbl.

- Sam

 

[440 4spd Power Ram]

Magnum cams aren't interchangeable with LA cams, they're not cross drilled for the rocker shaft oil passages.

 

[Mad Max]

there ya go. I'd call Comp, 'splain what you're after, and I'd wager they'll have one in stock 👍 . And, IMO, unless you're building a high-winding horsepower mill you'll be perfectly fine with the stock manifolds...which if my research is correct are the same ones (#4041466) I bolted up to my 02 Magnum 360 👍 - check out my most recent post -

'02 Dakota "Oxx" (...exhausted...)

...crossing off the list of small stuff. Bolted on the Jegs "Magnum" thermostat housing (#53251), sensors installed in the intake, and got a 45* heater hose fitting to make connecting to the heater hose a cinch. Have a nice HVH "Super Sucker" 2bbl carb adapter ready to bolt on, and used a...

www.ramchargercentral.com

 

[440 4spd Power Ram]

Love it - all of it 👍 . Unless you need better performance off-road (steep angles, big changes in altitude, etc), you won't likely gain much with EFI. I'd instead suggest a good TQ rebuild and good aftermarket ignition system like the MSD Ready-to-Run. You can also go with the Demon Carbs TQ replacement - https://www.summitracing.com/search...let/single?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending

Cams are a bit more difficult to review, but I can offer this: I am nearing completion and fire-up of my '02 Magnum 360 built for 'truck' duty, at Comp Cam's recommendation I installed their 212-218 (264/270), .480/.480, on a 114* LSA. The next cam down was their 20-744-9, which is a 206/212 (258/264, also with .480.480), but on a 112*, and with my intended use he indicated the 114* of the taller cam would make my idle a bit better while still giving a real nice mid-range and upper end, and that sounded good to me.

I do not know off the top of my head if the Magnum cams are interchangeable with the LA cams, but call Comp and ask them what the equivalent LA cam is. The 264/270 sounds like a bit more cam than I might have originally thought I'd want, but after talking with the tech there he said with the big 114* LSA it'll act like a smaller cam at idle but offer real good gains in the mid range, so that's how I went. I'll know soon if that was a good decision or not.

Also, Hughes recommended a 210/216, on a 110*, and both Howards and Bullet had similar recommendations...but no cams were available at either and there was no end in sight for backorders, so Comp Cams it was.

OBTW, I think the stock/OE cam is 184/194, .410/.410, 112*... = tiny!

Xtreme Energy Computer Controlled 212/218 Hydraulic Roller Cam for Chrysler Magnum
Xtreme Energy Computer Controlled 212/218 Hydraulic Roller Cam for Chrysler Magnum with 1.6 Rockers. Strong towing cam for the 360, performance cam for the 318 with better exhaust and computer modifications. (Note: 1992-02 w/ Stud Mount Rockers & Electric Fuel Pump, Short Snout)

www.compcams.com

I went with a Sniper but I didn't want any more linkage and tuning hassles than absolutely necessary, so I opted for a 2300 series 2bbl.

- Sam

The cam in the picture is drilled but I don't know if it's actually the same one you used or not, having seen what happened when a non drilled cam was used in a LA make certain it is drilled for a LA otherwise there's no oil to the top end.

 

[Canadian country boy]

I'm now retired and finally going to rebuild the tired 360 in our 78 Warlock Power Wagon.
I readily admit that cam specs make my head spin......I have been reading all day long!
Therefore, I would love some input on a cam (& possibly intake) that would make a good driver with oomph. (will have A/C, P/S and P/B).
Pertinent info:
Sealed Power H116CP Hypereutectic Pistons that should give 9.5-10 cr
308 hi-swirl heads (all new valves, no rotators)
Windage tray
3.54 gears
33x12.50-15 tires
727 torqueflight

I am also debating keeping the Thermoquad & Performer, which I like, or going to a Holley Sniper
Thanks!
-steve

Don't let all of the different cam choices confuse you. Those are there so they can appeal to many different engine build combinations. You chose your cam by the type of performance you want and then fine tune the specs from there. You look at the cams advertised operating range. If you want an engine that produces low bottom end torque then look for a cam that makes low end torque, if you want mid-range power then look for a cam that works a little higher up in the rpm range, if you want top end power then look for a cam that makes power up high. To make any decent power at all requires everything to work in concert with each other. You want your cam and intake and heads to work with your cylinder volume. No sense on having a big cam and heads if the cylinders can't handle all that extra flow or vice versa, having too much piston volume and not enough breathing from the cam, heads, intake. Pick the power level you want and the operating range you want it in and the cam will almost chose itself. You can get deeper by playing around with lobe separation angles, cam phases, etc but it's not critical for a daily driver.

 

[Warlock78]

Wow! Thanks for the comments.....lots of reading and I know if ya'll use same hunt-n-peck typing style I do, it took a while to post.
The truck was originally a 2-bbl and currently has a thermoquad, performer intake, headers and Walker SuperTurbo muffs.
Yes, the OG stock cam is tiny !

 

[440 4spd Power Ram]

With 3.5 gears I'd look into a RV type low end torque cam and a set of roller rockers, this is a tried and true low end cam but the availability is questionable.

30,000 Lbs RV cam info

According to the MOPAR engine book the RV cam P4452755 (duration 240/248 - lift .405/410}. This was the cam that produced the most torque from 318 and 360 engines this is the CAM to get / its the 30.000 Lbs RV this cam turns a 318 into a tire burning [ 35 boggers with 3,21 gears] Monster this...

www.ramchargercentral.com

 

[Moparbob1987]

Only suggestion I would make is go with a roller cam if you have the money, no lifter break in issues and lots of options. I have a custom ground bullet cam. Call them up give them all your info and they will custom grind you one.
Rob

I'm now retired and finally going to rebuild the tired 360 (LA) in our 78 Warlock Power Wagon.
I readily admit that cam specs make my head spin......I have been reading all day long!
Therefore, I would love some input on a cam (& possibly intake) that would make a good driver with oomph. (will have A/C, P/S and P/B).
Pertinent info:
Sealed Power H116CP Hypereutectic Pistons that should give 9.5-10 cr
308 hi-swirl heads (all new valves, no rotators)
Windage tray
3.54 gears
33x12.50-15 tires
727 torqueflight

I am also debating keeping the Thermoquad & Performer, which I like, or going to a Holley Sniper
Thanks!
-steve

 

[Mad Max]

I will concur that a roller cam is a great option if it's available, and one of the reasons is you then have the option to use any off-the-shelf oil available and aren't reliant on the old-school oil with high ZDDP levels for the flat-tappet wear surfaces...which while not hard to find it is nearly impossible to find the correct stuff at any local parts store - mail-order only, and it sure ain't cheap. That alone is one of the main reasons I went with a magnum 360 vs an LA 360...

 

[440 4spd Power Ram]

Nearly everything I deal with at work has flat tappet cams so finding a good source of ZDDP was a necessity, STP oil treatment is the only commonly available source that the average parts store is likely to have on hand.

 

[Canadian country boy]

Nah, Shell Rotella diesel oil has zinc in it and it's available everywhere and so does every GM dealership with their zinc additive in the parts department. Many other companies make zinc additives that are available at most parts stores.

 

[KurtfromLaQuinta]

Nah, Shell Rotella diesel oil has zinc in it and it's available everywhere and so does every GM dealership with their zinc additive in the parts department. Many other companies make zinc additives that are available at most parts stores.

Yeah. Getting anything at a dealer will require spending 3-4 times the amount spent getting it even online.
Lots of places online will have free shipping if you spend a certain amount.

One must READ this before building an engine or selecting a cam... https://www.hughesengines.com/TechArticles/basicreadingforenginebuildingphp.php

You'll make less mistakes by following those instructions.

 

[Canadian country boy]

Yes, great advise in that link. For the record, when i mentioned look at the advertised specs, I only meant by the cams advertised "power band" operating range, not the advertised lift or duration.

 

[Adamell]

Duration at .050 is what you want to look at. The higher duration moves the power band up in the rpm range and vise versa. Use your differential gears and tire size to calculate your most common rpm for your intended use and shoot for that. Yes it will make power below and above those rpm ranges, but you want to optimize power & efficiency. I would not exceed 220 max, and probably go much lower… 212. also look at lift, do not exceed what your heads are capable of, or you will have a bad day…. LSA lobe separation angle will effect how smooth your idle is, so read up on the effects of wide vs narrow LSA and engine vacuum. Good luck.

 

[Mopar572]

Nah, Shell Rotella diesel oil has zinc in it and it's available everywhere and so does every GM dealership with their zinc additive in the parts department. Many other companies make zinc additives that are available at most parts stores.

agree, shell rotella, good stuff!

 

[Moparbob1987]

Duration at .050 is what you want to look at. The higher duration moves the power band up in the rpm range and vise versa. Use your differential gears and tire size to calculate your most common rpm for your intended use and shoot for that. Yes it will make power below and above those rpm ranges, but you want to optimize power & efficiency. I would not exceed 220 max, and probably go much lower… 212. also look at lift, do not exceed what your heads are capable of, or you will have a bad day…. LSA lobe separation angle will effect how smooth your idle is, so read up on the effects of wide vs narrow LSA and engine vacuum. Good luck.

I have 318/390 magnum stroker 1.6 rockers with fi tech efi 727 trans with 2500 rpm stall 3.90 gears trac loc 275/60-15 MT ET street here’s the cam bullet specd and made me

 

[Mad Max]

diesel oil like the Shell Rotella is supposed to have the higher ZDDP levels, but, the issue I've heard about with using diesel oil is the aggressive detergents in the oil are 'too' aggressive and can lead to premature cylinder wall wear. Whether or not it's true is debatable, and I do not know for certain myself, but that is why I did not mention diesel oils.

Roller cam = zero concerns 👍

 

[Mopar572]

Wouldn't the cylinder walls in a diesel engine also show this increased wear? In PA every state vehicle gets 15w40 diesel oil, and rotella is advertised as a "mixed fleet oil" so I would think any cylinder wear is negligible