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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
should be a steel vent line from your fuel tank to the charcoal can. Apologies if it doesn't run the same I was thinking you had a 78 pickup. For me the line comes from the rear tank and "T"s into the forward tank vent line right before it goes up into the pillar. once it makes a "U" in the pillar it drops under the door (inside the Cab) and follows the door jamb until it's under the hood.

I don't have (or can't find) a ramcharger Diagram though
No worries! I appreciate the shout. I actually have a '77 Ramcharger. Two questions, do I need to replace these lines with steel? or will fuel line work? Also should I replace my charcoal canister? Here's what I have in my service manual in terms of diagrams. I have the "heavy duty cycle" 360 -


 

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tell me you didnt really mark your FSM with a Orange crayon ??


most of the time ONLY the rubber lines need to be replaced , the steel lines are usually fine unless your trucks a complete rust bucket , but definitely look them over / l,d test first and replace later

back in the day we used a fish tank air bubbler over a pan of heated baby oil [ modern smoke machine fluid is baby oil with a florescent die ] it was always fun dealing with "modern" technology
 

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1975 W100 Power Wagon Adventurer Sport 318 727 NP203 3.55
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DodgeBoys is right if the steel lines are still good leave them alone, if not replace with metal fuel line (aluminum or brass would maybe last longer?). still wonder what was in that floorboard to give that line trouble, that was the only little area of problem on mine, and why did only the top half of it rust. rubber lines need replaed with rubber line; I used Fuel injection line but that's probably overkill. I replaced my charcoal can but only because I broke it getting the old lines off, otherwise you can get a kit to rebuild it if it's losing charcoal. either way stick a fuel filter between it and the carb to save yourself trouble later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
tell me you didnt really mark your FSM with a Orange crayon ??
Haha no I just drew on the photo on my phone!! That's hilarious though. Thank you both for the advice! I haven't had a chance to look yet but I imagine my metal lines are in good shape. KG5JXO that's a great callout on the inline fuel filter, would hate to clog up the carb with charcoal bits.
 

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LOL //////////// read link below

 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
LOL //////////// read link below

yikes haha. definitely adding an inline fuel filter now
 

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1975 W100 Power Wagon Adventurer Sport 318 727 NP203 3.55
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Similar threads convinced me to do so. If you currently have a 2 port fuel filter its the same size. take this as an excuse to change it, if you can still blow through it it will likely do fine between the can and carb
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 · (Edited)
Update - Chased all of the lines yesterday with some compressed air. Replaced the fuel line where the metal lines meet the canister, and the small bend of fuel line where the metal lines meet under the frame. Unfortunately there's still a leak as it won't hold pressure. Next step is to drop the tank and replace the hose there, and the grommet and tank connector. I'm going to replace the fuel sending unit as well since I'm going to have the tank down, and the current sending unit only pushes the gauge to halfway full even when it's full. (or if there's a way to fix the one I have, that would work too). At a minimum I need to reseal those parts, any advice on sealant to use?

I've also ordered a DIY smoke machine that produces smoke using a tiki torch/baby oil. I'll run that through the system as well to see if I can't narrow down the leak instead of replacing parts blindly. (Automotive Smoke Machines for Leak Detection | AutoLine Pro)

It would be a huge help if someone could link me to where I can find all of these parts. For reference I have a '77 Ramcharger with a "heavy duty" 360. Thanks!

EDIT: Is there an easy way to tell what size tank I have? I want to make sure I order the correct sending unit.
 

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if its a plastic tank is 35 Gal if its steel then 22 gal

www.vansauto.com for the sending unit
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
@DODGEBOYS do you have a line on a part # for the vacuum amplifier (hockey puck looking thing) for a "heavy duty" 360? I know you said any part number will work, but I'm trying to order the right thing. The smog tech just called me and told me the junkyard one I got failed his test. If they truly all do the same thing I'll just order whichever they have on evilbay and move on haha. Thanks!
 

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well , its pretty straight forwards , theres 6 numbers that cover all engines
4014 - 727
- 730
- 731
- 732
- 733
-737

there are TWO part numbers that interchange , thats - 732 and 737 that are listed as both slant six - 318 and 360

but other wise
slant six are - 732 - 733 - 737
318 -360 are - 727 - 730 - 731 - 732 - 737

so look for either the 732 or 737 and take yours apart it's just a rubber diaphragm , see whats up
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
well , its pretty straight forwards , theres 6 numbers that cover all engines
4014 - 727
- 730
- 731
- 732
- 733
-737

there are TWO part numbers that interchange , thats - 732 and 737 that are listed as both slant six - 318 and 360

but other wise
slant six are - 732 - 733 - 737
318 -360 are - 727 - 730 - 731 - 732 - 737

so look for either the 732 or 737 and take yours apart it's just a rubber diaphragm , see whats up
Thanks so much! That's super helpful. I wish I could take it apart and see what's up.. unfortunately the part is at the smog shop and I'm kind of at the mercy of the tech there now. Tried my best but it's been months and I just want to drive my RC! Luckily they are on it and I trust them. They already determined that I actually had the wrong carb the whole time (I had a holley 2245, it was missing the vacuum hookup to the charcoal canister to the bowl, and the throttle positioner). They have a NOS 2245 with the correct hookups on order. I just found the correct NOS vac amp per your suggestions. Thanks!
 

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Got my NOS vacuum amp in the mail. Looks pretty fresh but let's hope the 40 year old diaphragm in there is intact. Dropping it off at the smog shop tomorrow.
I remember that unit.
So glad I don't have to deal with that nonsense anymore.
 

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Got my NOS vacuum amp in the mail. Looks pretty fresh but let's hope the 40 year old diaphragm in there is intact. Dropping it off at the smog shop tomorrow.

get your old one back so you can take it apart and see whats up and weather its an easy fix
 

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Hey gang,

I'm having trouble sourcing all of the smog parts for my 1977 Ramcharger. It's a CA truck but the previous owner removed a lot of the equipment and disconnected the EGR. I failed a smog test last week and the smog tech told me to "get the EGR and everything it connects to". I have a "heavy duty 5.9L 360" it has the original carb, intake etc. I've included the inner fender sticker and a page from the service manual of all of the parts I need. Thanks in advance. If anyone has that smog stuff lying around and wants to sell it to me, please do!


I have a '78 with a 360 that was originally a California vehicle. I removed all of the 'gagging' emission equipment. I believe I still have most of it, if not all of it. Still looking?
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
I have a '78 with a 360 that was originally a California vehicle. I removed all of the 'gagging' emission equipment. I believe I still have most of it, if not all of it. Still looking?
Thank you so much! Anything helps. I will gladly pay shipping if you're willing to part with it. I could use a charcoal canister, smog pump, vacuum amplifier, vacuum solenoid, egr timer, etc. If you have the vacuum lines connected/intact and they aren't falling apart that would be helpful too just to see how it's all hooked up. I've been trying to get my truck to smog for almost four months now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
@DODGEBOYS seeking your help again with parts numbers. First some good news! I have the correct carb now and the new egr vacuum amplifier is functional. However my ramcharger has smog legal headers, and apparently no smog pump installed. It will not pass without the pump.

I got this message from the smog tech:

“Ok at least half the "Air Pump" brackets are on the engine, so we need air pump, belt, diverter valve, all plumbing to run air tubes to both sides. I could not find headers with air tubes, so probably need stock exhaust manifolds and all plumbing to those. I done a quick search for this parts with little luck.”

would you happen to know where to source those parts or part numbers? Anything helps! Thanks again dodgeboys! Couldn’t have gotten this far without you.
 

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1975 W100 Power Wagon Adventurer Sport 318 727 NP203 3.55
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for manifolds rockauto appears to have them (check the 85 model year should fit). Might be worth figuring out if you can get someone to weld in a air port in your headers instead then make new plumbing. Likely for the rest you'll be finding a junkyard anyway and the plumbing rusts. A better question here is if that's the only thing keeping you from passing, what happens if the other half of the brackets mysteriously fall off? it's not on the sticker like you said so those likely were from someone adding onboard air if someone asks.
 
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