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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was prepping to install my headers, when to my luck I discovered the stud by the firewall on the drivers side is busted...even better, it is back in the head. Did anyone have any experience with anything like this. I figured I would try to drill it out a bit and then tap it...I may have to cut the newer bolt short since I don't want to go into the head (and get an anti-freeze bath). Anyone have a better idea? I don't think taking the head off is better either.
Thanks
Tim
 

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Is there some reason why you can't use a good easy-out? It would be worth a try if you are going to drill on it anyway. If you can just get that busted piece to move a little, see if you can find a 1/4" left-handed drill bit to grab and unscrew that bad boy.

I just put all new studs in mine before I put the engine back in. I would not use bolts in these heads because they block the coolant passage. Your idea might work if you can get to enough threads. But, tapping that hole after drilling isn't going to be very clean. How will you get all the metal out of the hole when the tap just wants to push it inward?

If you haven't used easy-outs much, see if you can find someone to come over and give it their best shot. It can't hurt to try because you are going to have to drill it one way or another. Using an easy-out is an art form....
 

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Is there enough room at that location to use a drill? Does that stud go into an anti freeze gallery? If so, you might end up draining the antifreeze anyway. I recommend using a stud if that is what was in there originally. Like Ramjet said, you can try an easy out or a left turn drill bit. Either way will be tricky but doable if there is enough room. It might be easier to just pull the head off, and maybe have to use a heli coil.
Let us know how it works out.

Mac
 

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I would pull the head. I know it sucks, but if you don't get a good enough hole there, then the headers will never seal, or a coolant leak will come up later.
 

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I ran into this same problem on project FORD KILLER, but it was at the front of the head and not the rear. It was broken off just below flush in the head so it wouldn't come out with pliers. I tried with an easy out and couldn't budge it at all. I ended up drilling it as straight as I could and retapping it and just using a 3/8" header bolt there. I wouldn't worry too much about the shavings though. They will just go back into the coolant system. If you are really concerned about it just put a coolant filter on one of the radiator lines and that should catch the shavings.
 

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know any one w/ a 90 deg.air drill and a short bit .. have used this method several times..
then haet it if you can and try to get it w/ the ease out // qp
 

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I sent in a how to for headers, guess I suck at typing what to do.
TRY THIS: Drill it as straight as you can and retap it using a 3/8" header bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks to everyone for the advice. I didn't have my air compressor yet since I was waiting until I moved in 2 months...but plans change. The air drill was just small enough for me to get the bits in the hole, and in about 5 minutes of opening the hood, I had anti-freeze ( a good thing in this case). I started a thread with a tap (not too easy at that angle, just not enough pressure) and followed it up by ratcheting down on the bolt...
Good experience (hell no!!!) but I got my compressor at least.
Thanks
Tim
 

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Hey this is a good tip on how to do it, thanks for posting this.

rampar410 said:
know any one w/ a 90 deg.air drill and a short bit .. have used this method several times..
then haet it if you can and try to get it w/ the ease out // qp
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Good thing too, the stud on the passenger side is busted too. There was a good amount of Dodge gunk holding it in place on disassembly that I didn't see it. At least this time it is the front one. Oh yeah, stock starter doesn't fit w/ summit headers...in case there was a doubt.
Tim
 

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Here's a plan that RXT gave us in the fla chapter for this same thing. if the drill you got cant do it or you are tired of cramming all your parts into that small a space take off the inner fender well. it unbolts from the outer and give you tons of room to work especially if the tires off.
 

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Glad you got it ok. I had the same problem, a nightmare for me! Finally did end up taking the head off. The brake booster was in my way too. I guess I should have taken it off 1st. Ended up drilling crooked, then broke the easy out off flush with the surface, DON"T DO THIS. You can not drill those out! I ended up having it cut out at a machine shop where they had some machine that submerged the head in some liquid & cut it out with some type of plasma torch. Then had to re-tap the hole. It was a little sloppy so had a small coolant leak even after I put the new stud in. Used a little JB on it which did seal it. No problem today. But if I had to do it all over again, I think I would have pulled the head. Just my experience.
Dan
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You are probably right, it's just at the time you see what your up against and think it woun't be a big deal. Then you start drilling and getting frustrated and want to conquer the SOB. I think it was 2 or 3 hours into it when I figured I should have taken the head off...but damn it I wasn't backing down.
Oh yeah, mine is leaking too...a little much though so I am going to pull out the bolt I have in there and sink a fresh one with some red RTV back in there...should clog it back up.
Tim
 

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Hell, I've got 2 of them broke off....one in each head....the driver side closest to the firewall and the passenger side closest to the radiator.....I cut out my own header gaskets from gasket material I got from AutoZone and doubled them up where the bolts were broke and it worked great. No header leaks.
 
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