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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think Brute finally had the last word. He won't start. I crank and crank but nothing. And he has never done this to me.

Couple months ago I posted a thread that Brute was acting up and you guys suggested a dying fuel pump. Guess you were all right. Even with the cranking and cranking, I smell no fuel. I can't check the tank and crank at the same time to test it but I figure that's what it is.

What's lousy is that the damn fuel pump is in the tank. And of course the tank is full. My mechanic won't touch it with a full tank. So here's my question.

I run 89 octane in Brute. I run 87 octane in the Chevy. Can I siphon 89 octane and run it into the Chevy without messing up the engine in the Chevy? The engine is a 3.1 liter 6 cylinder? If this is a problem can I mix the fuels to make it easier on the Chevy?
 

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The 89 won't hurt the Chevy.
 

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If all the chevy needs is 87 octane, the worst the 89 octane will do is increase the emmissions coming from the tailpipe. She'll be fine ;)

-SM
 

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i used to mix 110 leaded with my usualy premium on the weekends in my shadow.

its simple to test the fuel pump to be sure. unclamp hose and place a jar or bucket to catch any fluid. flip the key on. first you should hear a buzz of the pump then fluid should pump out into the bucket.

this is how we test fuel filters alos. test pressure change before and after filter. if it only trickles out with filter on but comes out full force with no filter, the filter is clogged.
 

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Slanted_Mind said:
If all the chevy needs is 87 octane, the worst the 89 octane will do is increase the emmissions coming from the tailpipe. She'll be fine ;)

-SM
Yeah, in other words, give it a more potent "fart" :p :eek: 8)
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
joe swinehart said:
i used to mix 110 leaded with my usualy premium on the weekends in my shadow.

its simple to test the fuel pump to be sure. unclamp hose and place a jar or bucket to catch any fluid. flip the key on. first you should hear a buzz of the pump then fluid should pump out into the bucket.

this is how we test fuel filters alos. test pressure change before and after filter. if it only trickles out with filter on but comes out full force with no filter, the filter is clogged.
If only it was that easy. You have an '86 and '87. Models '88 and forward have electric fuel pumps in the fuel tanks. I wish it was a simple replacement off the engine.

The last time I replaced the fuel filter I got gas in both eyes and almost ended up in the ER. I'm leaving the filter alone unless it starts to leak.

I'm still just a little hestitant about putting 89 octane in the Chevy. I really don't want any valve problems, it only has 30,000 miles on the engine.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thought he was writing about the earlier pumps, my apology.

So I should disconnect the fuel line at the rear of the filter. Turn the key, if nothing happens its the pump. If I get fuel, reconnect and disconnect the fuel line at the front of the filter. Turn the key, no fuel--its the filter.

Need to try this. Am not looking forward to siphoning 22 gallons of gas.

 

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Right, that would be testing the pump/filter. If the filter is bad, some fuel may come out, but will not rush out as fast as it did when you disconnected before the filter.

Siphoning gas sucks, unless you have one of those little pumps and don't have to use the waterhose method :)
 

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Hey Jana don't even sweat it about running a slightly higher octane in your chevy. It won't hurt it and you might get better emmissions and fuel mileage!

Rod
 

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I normally run 87 in my Cougar. When I went to Utah (800 miles each way), I ran 92. Higher octane fuel will increase performance of an engine, not harm it. The only way it would harm an engine is to put 87 in a car that wants 92 over a long period of time.

My TD was pinging pretty bad during hard acceleration and up hills. So, I put 89 octane in instead of the cheap 87 and the pinging went away. 89 = good, 87 = bad, very bad! 92...good or bad, depending on the thickness of your wallet. :-\

Your Chevy will be fine. ;)
 

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hears an idea on how to siphon the gas. Buy a cheep electric fuel pump run the intake hose in through the gas inlet the output to a jerry can and power it off of the battery no gas in the mouth that way
 

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Try something, take the negative battery cable off for a few minutes to clear the computer. Reconnect it and try to start. It probably won't but I want you to check the codes in the computer after you try...if you get a Code 11 than the hall effect sensor in the distributor is shot. If the computer does not see a signal from this sensor it will shut the fuel pump down. You may have to have someone with a scan tool check the codes. Can you here the fuel pump run for 2 to 3 seconds when you turn the key on?:)

The sensor in the distributor looks like this....

 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I wondered how I was going to siphon. I thought that there is an anti-siphoning device in the neck of the gas hose. I thought they were in all vehicles say back to the late 1970's?

I did run codes when Brute failed to start. There were no new codes. 12,37,55. I will disconnect/reconnect the battery ground cable and run the codes again. These steps are easier than changing that pump. Then too, my mechanic won't question the dumb blonde's diagnosis.

I did turn the key on today and tried to listen to the tank for that swishing sound and I heard nothing.

Will check out that filter tomorrow or this weekend. We have been having some real hot weather here. I'm not laying under Brute in 94 degree weather, he will wait. Tomorrow is suppose to be 68 degrees and the weekend mid-seventies.

Don't know why I am hesitating to put 89 octane into the Chevy. Guess its because the Chevy is my daily driver. And I can't afford trouble with it when both of my mopars are requiring repairs right now. I have always had 318 mopars. This 3.1 Chevy is new to me.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Chump said:
Try something, take the negative battery cable off for a few minutes to clear the computer. Reconnect it and try to start. It probably won't but I want you to check the codes in the computer after you try...if you get a Code 11 than the hall effect sensor in the distributor is shot. If the computer does not see a signal from this sensor it will shut the fuel pump down. You may have to have someone with a scan tool check the codes. Can you here the fuel pump run for 2 to 3 seconds when you turn the key on?:)

The sensor in the distributor looks like this....

I checked my Haynes book on this hall effect sensor, just out of curiosity. Couldn't find it in the book anywhere. Did I miss it or isn't it there?
 
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