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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I went to start the W250 and smelled a heavy gas odor....no leaks on engine, but....noticed fuel dripping down from the fuel tank....removed the bed and found that the rubber lines needed replacing badly....also the return line fitting was broken off on an angle....picked up another (used) complete fuel pump/sending unit assembly but those fitting had been cut off to where the line connectors will not lock on....can I use JB Weld or something similar to reattach the return fitting and call it good?....or am I going to have to buy a complete assembly?....this is an 88' TBI....
 

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I broke the supply fitting off of mine while changing the rubber line. I cut the fitting off flush with the base then carefully drilled and tapped the lid for a brass barb fitting. I used a little Teflon and pipe dope on the threads. I have had zero problems ever since
 

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Is there enough of the tube sticking up to use a plumbing compression fitting? or a heat shrink tubing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
SuperBurban said:
Is there enough of the tube sticking up to use a plumbing compression fitting? or a heat shrink tubing?
No George there isn't....it is broken on an angle from right below the locking "ring" portion of the fitting to about 1/32nd of an inch from the base itself....
 

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Ok, I just dug my spare out and looked, Dorman makes a fuel line repair kit (available at advanced). I would cut off the plastic quick disconnect, and use the dorman kit (cut one in half), and run it straight through the plastic, to the inside rubber hose. It will take a little cutting to get around the inside metal fitting, but you can handle it. then I would JB weld the outside after it is assembled.

 

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Jb weld will not seal in this application. Also I do not recall the return line having a rubber hose on the inside, I think it's just a little diffuser sort of thing. In a tbi application the return line can see pressures as high or higher than the supply side if it should get obstructed so I would be afraid of any kind of epoxy or sealant. Try my fix, I think you'll be pleased
 

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I'm looking at it right here. I don't see how you could drill & tap into a plastic lid, and have it meet the rubber hose.  {noclue}

My idea of the repair pipe meeting the rubber hose on the inside, will contain all the pressure to the end of the return tube. The JB weld, or what ever would only be used to help seal the tank sloshing.


Please explain your idea further, I do not understand what it is you are drilling & tapping in to.
 

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The green plastic lid on mine was thick enough to drill and tap. I did not drill all the way through  just deep enough to tap and thread in the fitting. The fittings on the underside of the lid stayed the same. I mis understood the line repair idea, as long as the jb isn't sealing a pressurized line I see no reason that it won't work. My fix may not work on all units, but it seems strange because it was the same year model
 

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After looking at the pics a little closer I think I see how I did it. It looks like between the top surface of the lid to the bottom surface where the inside nipple bolts on is almost 3/4" thick. It's hard to describe without a pic of my setup ( promise I'm not crazy)  ;D
 

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I understand what you are describing now, I'm just not real crazy on tapping into plastic for a pressurized line.
 

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Think of a threaded PVC fitting. Sch40 is good to 200psi. I'm not trying to stir the pot per say, it's just that I've had this very fix on my truck for a little over five years with no trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Off to Advance in just a bit for some repair line....will let you know how it goes....maybe, just maybe, there may be some before and after pics....
 

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squads51 said:
Off to Advance in just a bit for some repair line....will let you know how it goes....maybe, just maybe, there may be some before and after pics....
. Damn.... Looks like superburban gets the commission on this one. Lol
 

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no, all ideas are worth posting up for consideration, its not a contest. I talked with Paul on the phone, and he had a problem getting the right stuff, so we still do not know what his final outcome was.
 

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I'm just kidding. Like I said now that I understand your idea I think it's as good as mine. And probably easier in the end
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
bluegoat said:
. Damn.... Looks like superburban gets the commission on this one. Lol
SuperBurban said:
no, all ideas are worth posting up for consideration, its not a contest. I talked with Paul on the phone, and he had a problem getting the right stuff, so we still do not know what his final outcome was.
bluegoat said:
I'm just kidding. Like I said now that I understand your idea I think it's as good as mine. And probably easier in the end
After careful consideration of the various options presented both on here and a few long distance calls....and I thank you all for your thoughts on this problem....I give you all the results:

Pic #1....removed the bed



Pic #2....source of fuel leakage, old hoses and broken fitting


Pic #3....closer view



Pic #4....pump/sending unit out of tank and draining residual gas



Pic #5....another unit I got from Leon, unfortunately the fittings had been cut off at the locking ridge,
so I used it as a "practice" piece....



Pic #6....unit dis-assembled



Pic #7....hole drilled out same diameter as new fitting



Pic #8....new fitting installed and re-assembled



Pic #9....side view of unit



Pic #10....JBWeld used to fill/close any gaps between fitting and plastic top



Pic #11....boot/sleeve that unit sits in at bottom of tank



Pic #12....finished product re-installed in tank



Now to put the bed back on....or hold off for a little bit and see if another, more heavy duty one, shows up in the yard.... ::)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
rb89318 said:
Did the fix end up actually working? My wife suggested mimicking the draw straw set up out of the diesels to fix ours since the supply broke off on ours.
Yes, no more fuel leaking....
 

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