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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm thinking of ordering in a Borgeson shaft.
The stock OEM shaft actually seems pretty good and tight, its a D150 2WD with 100K miles.
Question is, will I notice much improvement over the original if the original is in good order?
Most parts I need to order in from the USA.
Last order cost me $130 USD in shipping, which is over $200 local dollars so I like to make it worthwhile!
I would appreciate it if someone could give me the correct model number  I need for shaft and rag joint.
Normally I use LMC truck.
'83 D150.

Cheers,

GDU.

 

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the wear point of stock shafts is the "coupler" AT the steering box . If you have one and it has NO perceptible play , a "borgeson" shaft will not fix it , its not broken .... some older trucks , like yours had a U joint there , my '82 had one .  Just check for play there , wiggle the steering wheel shaft just a few degrees , watch the input shaft of the "box" , or feel for slack in the coupler . If you find some then consider either a "borgeson" or installing a U joint . I have the correct yoke numbers that spline fit / intersect bolt clamp to the gear box , set screw to the steering wheel shaft , I then weld that yoke to shaft as well . Early models have a doubble d slip section which you retain , '92 newer , have a crumple zone in frame horn , and no slip section ..  no bragging rights though  . 
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, its got the coupler.
Does not seem to be any play in it.
Just thought it might be a good thing to upgrade to,but if you say it wont make any difference to a coupler in good order I might not bother.
Cheers.
 

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I may get flack for this but I have rebuilt the stock coupler on all but one of my trucks and I prefer it to the borgeson shaft.....I have never understood what keeps the borgeson shaft for slipping in on itself beside set screws...
 

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For a 2WD, the stock joint works decently. The 4WDs are the ones that eat the stock joint like candy.

As for the Borgeson shaft, it is superior to the stock shaft in all ways. The splines on the steering input keep it from slipping, just like the stock joint. The set screw is only there to prevent the joint from slipping off the input, which is very unlikely anyway.
 

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assemble like you would a drive shaft phasing the rag joint and u joint in the same plane .
shown is a '93 w 350 , obviously the spicer was made FOR steering . Takes a 100 series greaseable u joint .  Don't ask me prices , these came from a local drive shaft shop , ordered by numbers I selected from Spicer . I like the correct splines , the bolt that clamps and pins it so NO clearance to produce wear , my hands on the "other end" cannot break the weld/set "screw " and I can grease it / replace joint from a/p store . No clearance issues .
 

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crazzywolfie said:
i have been temped to try and order one of these. they are a fraction of the cost of borgeson but i wonder how long it would last. i know you usually get what you pay for but tempting for the price.
I was cruisin around amazon the other day and noticed several borgeson knock offs including the one ya posted. It hits me as couldn't be more cheaply put together. Ya know, kinda like when ya buy a used truck and ya make a list of stuff you're taking off it before you even consider driving it.
 

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I am completely new to all of this, so forgive my stupidity. I have a 1987 4WD RamCharger with the coupler and it is toast, but the drive shaft appears to be in good shape.  Can I just replace the coupler with a U-Joint and call it good?? 

Thanks!
 

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see post and photo above , yes .
 

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Even better would be a universal where the rag joint is and one at the box. Did that in my 86. Liked it alot
 

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Thanks.  I see the picture with the Spicer part numbers.  Did the end attach right to the splines of the gearbox or did you have to file down a flat spot for the bolt?  I have seen that in a lot of the posts about replacing the entire shaft.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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the input shaft of the box HAS a groove/flat whatever , when you try to remove the factory coupler you MUST remove a roll pin that crosses the shaft in that spot same as the spicer bolt passes thru .
 

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The Boregeson is well worth the money and is a huge upgrade over stock.  Unless you are going hardcore offroad, I wouldn't worry too much about the rag joint, it's fine for 90% of us.  The stock joint is garbage and can wear out in as little as 1k miles.
 

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Yes the stock steering coupler is not worth rebuilding, for me they didn't last. And yes the rag is fine. You will probably get more play in the lower colum bushing than the rag
 

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If your coupler is worn out, I would go Borgeson without question. I rebuilt mine first, and I'm one of those who got less than 1,000 miles out of the stock coupler after a rebuild. The Borgeson shaft genuinely is the single best modernization I could ever think of for this vehicle. If Amazon Prime exists where you are, I saved a bit of money and got free two day shipping by ordering there instead of from Borgeson.

If yours is in good shape, I wouldn't worry about it though. But if yours eats the stock joint like candy as others have said, upgrade and never look back.
 

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Sorry for highjacking your thread but I have a question regarding the Borgeson as well. Got an 84 4WD RC here with leaking steering pump and shot factory coupler. I allready ordered a new quality pump and wanted to refurbish the coupler until i red the Borgeson threads here.
My RC has a Skyjacker 2,5" lift kit installed. Would the #943 "2 U-joints version the correct one to go or should i choose the smaller #940 with just 1 U-joint?
 

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Two U-joint one you have to cut the steering column shaft off and weld the U-joint on
 
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