[cooper30]

Hey Mopar4x, I found info on Borgeson's site about the 2 u-joint shaft. Maybe you hand a hand in getting it listed.

Here is the info. You'll have to scroll to the bottom to see the part #.

So anyway, I went out and looked at my RC. I can see the splines that the rag joint coupler slides on, but what is the best way to remove the coupler? Does that pin that sticks out of the top pull out? It doesn't go all the way through on mine.

Here's a pic of my coupler (shaft has been removed).

Thanks,
Ted

 

[mopar4x]

Hey, what do you know? They finally did add it to their inventory list! I'd like to take the credit for getting them motivated, but I'm probably just one of the thousands who nagged them into it.

Your column in the picture looks just like mine. You simply pop that keeper pin out of the flange bracket, and your in business.

The part number for the regular shaft is 940, and the new and improved double u-joint shaft is a 943. To buy the upper u-joint by itself (for those who already have the 940 shaft), the part number is U16N1DD736.

To recap:
The 940 shaft (single u-joint w/rag joint flange) is about $190
The 943 shaft (double u-joints) is about $220
The extra u-joint (replaces the rag joint) is about $60

So, if you haven't already bought the 940, you can save about $30 buying the double u-joint shaft. I just ordered the 943, so my unused 940 shaft is now up for sale. Any takers, just email me with an offer.

 

[cooper30]

Thanks for all the info. I'll be getting mine after payday this week.

 

[mopar4x]

Hey anybody, another thing to keep in mind is that they offer both of these u-joints in stainless steel as well, but it costs a little more (of course). I don't have those part numbers, but you can request them in stainless when you order. The shaft is only available in bare steel, but it's easy to paint.

 

[cooper30]

Thanks for all the info. I'll be getting mine after payday this week.

Oops, ordered it a couple days early.

 

[Stew_Squarenuts]

has any one had problem with there steering box needing replacement after installing the Borgeson shaft? I was planning on doing the Borgenson shaft and the box, but after talking to some people I'm thinking of just replacing the shaft.
-stew-

 

[phoenix827]

I don't think it will do anything other then cause you to notice you need a steering box. If you fix all the slop in the system EXCEPT the box, and you still have slop, then your box has probably been loose for a while.

 

[cooper30]

Well, the new shaft is in!! I was going to do a how-to (even took pics), then I found the one by Bose318. I "borrowed" his idea about the shock boot covering the u-joint by the steering gear box.

The only things I did differently were that I had to cut 4 inches off the shaft so it would fit, I had to drill a hole in the tubular part to atttach the upper u-joint, and I used a Dremel to create a flat spot in the splines for the set screws.

If anything, I think the 2 u-joint shaft is easier to install than the 1 u-joint/rag joint one.

I've got pics if anyone needs some info.

Here it is!!! (me so happy )

 

[phoenix827]

Loooks good Coop!! My only problem with the boot is they same as on the shocks. They hold the dirt and junk IN next to everything. I like the nice little CLEAN thing on the truck tho! lol Seriously, it looks good. Even better, it looks STURDY!

 

[cooper30]

Loooks good Coop!! My only problem with the boot is they same as on the shocks. They hold the dirt and junk IN next to everything. I like the nice little CLEAN thing on the truck tho! lol Seriously, it looks good. Even better, it looks STURDY!

I left the lower end of the boot loose so water and junk can get out. If I find that it's keping a lot of crap in, I'll just take it off.

And yea, it is way sturdier than the stock shaft. Just looking at the two side by side made me wonder what Dodge was thinking when they put them on.